Just wondering if anyone is using a 32 column drop with an after market column...do you have the on/off locking mechanism of the drop functional? Thanks Sent from my SM-J320ZN using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
On / off is ignition, just a toggle switch. Key is the steering lock. Someone, not sure who, much later had a clever idea..... Chris
If your aftermarket column outer tube is the same diameter as whatever year Ford column lock drop is being used, then the only thing you need to do is attach a strip of thick steel flat stock to the inner shaft itself. (and drill a hole in the outer tube for the slide bolt that moves with the key). Trying to explain it in simple terms if you never had one apart before? > When the key is turned, a slide bolt, just like on an old house door, moves in towards the center of the 3/4" steering shaft. Then the steering wheel can only turn a bit less than one full turn, "if" there is that steel thing attached to the shaft. That steel piece will hit the extended slide bolt. .
******...you know what im talking about...the thingy-ma-bob...the watch-ya-ma-call-it..[emoji6] It was late and my brain hurts....yes the locking mechanism when you turn the key..which to be fair can't happen without the on/off switch... Sent from my SM-J320ZN using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
F & J, Might you have written instructions (with pictures) describing how to properly dis***emble a 1932 steering column lock ***embly ? My column lock ***embly needs a new ignition switch ( or a rebuild) but I don't want to damage anything thus the need for instructions. I would appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks, Dave Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I am using a 41-48 Ford column lock and switch in my 32 with a 40 Ford Dashboard, but these locks/switches should all be the same design for years ....even on some non-Fords, especially the electrical part of the switch which looks like a thin rectangular box with rounded corners. I just got a new camera TODAY lol...I will see if I can find some old switch parts here to take some pics. As long as you have a key and it works?...then it is a simple job. ...and that switch box just needs cleaning of the round contacts inside;...these rarely need any new parts to make them work again. .
This picture seems to be an aftermarket shaft equipped with a Ford lock collar...only pic of the collar I could find: It's the lump about 1/3 of the way down shaft on right. So...making a '32 drop functional as a steering lock would just be a matter of finding something cylindrical that will go on there, fixing it with a short screw, and slotting it with a rotary cutting disk. Stockers locked dead ahead and a few degrees in either direction, and if the plunger wasn't in the slot on a parked Ford it would drop in and lock as soon as the steering wheel was moved.
I mentioned my modified column and shaft are not 32...and I said mine has a flat bar to keep the locked steering shaft for turning a full turn. No idea where, or what car that flat bar came from , but here is a close up of what Bruce was showing, one collar with a long slot. This one is 34 Buick, and is a much larger OD and ID than Ford...but you get the idea. The slide bolt lock is spring loaded on the inner tip. That is so the slide bolt can be locked, even if that slot is not lined up when you lock it. As soon as the shaft is turned enough, then that spring loaded pin will drop it, then it is locked in one spot. I don't have a 32 lock but a lot of US cars had same exact function, same procedures to follow. Below are two non Ford locks with arrows to show what the text goes with. Above pic; "A" is the permanently pressed in pin that acts as a lever to rotate the switch contacts inside the switch box. This pin moves when you flip the toggle switch. There is a slot for it in the switch box base shown somewhere here.. "B" is the spring loaded tip of the locking slide bolt "C" is where a slot-head screw holds in a small spring loaded ball, that only keeps the toggle switch "clicked" either on or off position. If you need to take the key tumbler out? ...then in the pic below you will see two corresponding holes for a pressed-in pin. Once the tumbler was installed, then a anti-theft pin was rammed in there, so the tumbler could not be removed very easily. You drill it out, or if you had patience and small taps, you could drill and tap that tiny plug to pull it out. I just drill them out. Ok, on that original Ignition switch function.>> They only ran the coil off of one terminal marked IGN, then the other "switched terminal" usually says Gauge or gas gauge. The 3rd terminal is marked "Batt" for power coming in. If you want to run a "lot of things" off of this type of switch, you might want to use the one marked gauge, to feed a Bosch Relay as to not "overtax" that switch. (I don't know how many amps these switches can handle without causing heat, which will ruin the bakelite over time).. On mine, I only run the coil and gauges off of it. All other things like heater, radio, signals, brakelights are all powered with key off, only because I believe in simplicity, rather than adding a relay..even though I have a lot of those Bosch ones here in stock. There is a slot in the base of the small sheetmetal switch box so this lever can move. Shown below:
F&J Thanks so much for the info. I hope use my column switch in the future Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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