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Technical 1932 Ford Rear Frame Horns

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by AlsopAndSons, Jul 5, 2022.

  1. AlsopAndSons
    Joined: Jun 5, 2019
    Posts: 139

    AlsopAndSons
    Member

    Question:
    Are there any rubber seals between the frame, horn covers, bumper brackets, and tail lights - are were they all just installed metal to metal?
     
  2. 19Eddy30
    Joined: Mar 27, 2011
    Posts: 3,483

    19Eddy30
    Member
    from VA

    Metal to metal , light bracket to bumper bracket to cover to frame horn
    welting between top frame horn & tank , there a rubber c Chanel on top of frame horn cover between cover & tank & 2 rubber bumpers on top between horn cover & rear panel
     
  3. AlsopAndSons
    Joined: Jun 5, 2019
    Posts: 139

    AlsopAndSons
    Member

    Gotcha thanks. And while I’m here, what is the order of installation? I assumed it is cover, bumper brackets, then lights. But want to confirm.
     
  4. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,361

    alchemy
    Member

  5. 19Eddy30
    Joined: Mar 27, 2011
    Posts: 3,483

    19Eddy30
    Member
    from VA

    Kind of 3 hands ,
    Spreader bar,Cover , bumper bracket then tail light bracket , F380F5DD-B781-4369-A5ED-FCD357CB89A4.png
     
  6. AlsopAndSons
    Joined: Jun 5, 2019
    Posts: 139

    AlsopAndSons
    Member

    Yes of course, was only focused on the outside of the frame. :)
     
  7. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,361

    alchemy
    Member

    If you are using an aftermarket spreader bar, you will soon understand why all of Henry's bars had threaded holes in the ends. The new ones have loose nuts, but you can't reach them with all the tin in the way.
     
  8. SDS
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 1,037

    SDS
    Member

    On a similar note, I have a 32 highboy which will be getting assembled soon - does welting go under everything from the gas tank to the cowl feet? Anything else anywhere?
    Anyone have any tricks or tips for getting putting the bolt holes in it, keeping the ends from fraying and/or keeping it put while dropping the body on/shimming?

    Thanks
     
  9. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 21,712

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

  10. SDS
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 1,037

    SDS
    Member

  11. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,361

    alchemy
    Member

    My virgin tudor had a slightly thicker rubber pad under the firewall feet. If you’ve already assembled your car preliminarily with no thicker pad, I’d think you wouldn’t need it now. Just use the same webbing front to back.
     
  12. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 21,712

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Little details like this have a lot to do with some cars having panels aligned and flowing body contours and some that don't.
    I've seen a number of cars with the "broken back" look due to the hood not meeting the cowl on the same plain.
    Most cars require their own little bit of fuss'n to pull this off, what works on one car doesn't work on others.
     
    Just Gary likes this.

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