Projects 1932 frame with 1946 X-member build

Hi Folks,

I've just started building a '32 frame for a Model-A roadster and intend to install a 1946 center X-member. The frame will be unboxed and will feature Model-A front and rear crossmembers. It's got a flathead V8 mounted to a T5 transmission. My question is: Has anyone here done this and are there any threads here detaling the installation? Later on I'll document the build here but would like to see other peoples installations first.

Cheers

Ed

 

I've been thinking about this as well for a 32 frame, except I have a 41 x member.

 

I used part of one in a Model A frame from a subframed 46, boxed frame, 37 axles & steer. Link will have pics if it works.

http://s845.photobucket.com/albums/ab12/barrylm/

 

all of bass's model as have done this
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/search.php?searchid=799524

danny's lamintated rails are genious. if i could go back in time i would deffinatly copy this double wall rail vrs boxing mine.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=300262

i used a 40 merc which is a tad longer than the ford, also i boxed the full rail. the vintage x member is the way to go!

 

Well we started today, and initial plans are to run the X-member backwards to utilize the wishbone ball mount for the rear bones and to free up more room for pedals.
I'll keep you all updated....

Ed

P.S. Anyone have a '42-'48 front wishbone ball cap? I lost mine.

 

Wow, I missed that thread, thanks (the Bass link came up blank for me?).

 

i advise that you utilize the 3 speed trani mount and pedal mount. location for the rear wishbones are less important i think.

 

My 32 has a 2 foot long section of 35 X, turned backwards for using 35/36 rear arms as a wishbone. The yoke is from a 32 front bone.

 

Well looking to get the best from both worlds I decided to reverse the center section of the '46 X-member to utilize the wishbone mount for the rear wishbone. I tried reversing the entire X-member but wasn't happy with the placement of the legs so I cut off all four and reversed them. It made the placement and execution easier too. Where the X-member slips into the '32 rails I decided to use largish triangular filch plates Chevy style riveted to the X-member and rails to stiffen everything up.

The '46 trans mount came out as it is too far forward for the T5. Pedals may or may not end up being '46. Doesn't look promising though. It's very tight around there in an A-V8 ;-)

Here's some progress pictures.

 

Nothing new about doing this, except this is a fresh chassis,,,,again. It's the cheep 35-40 X member with just a bit of adjusting. It has 39 Trans mount and 39 Pedals in it. I like using this one so the floor stays pretty flat except for over the tranny. It is Model A frame rails not boxed, un-split bones front and rear. No boxing in the frame. This is a current project and plans are to lift the body off again and get paint on the Chassis Sat/Sun if I'm lucky.
The Wizzard

 

Well the 1946 X-member install is finished and painted. Here's a few pictures to whett your appetites. I'll be posting some more pictures once I have a rolling chassis so as to illustrate how everything fits together.
I had somestainless steel inserts turned up which are mounted to the backing plates so I can mount cycle fenders. The inserts are bolted to the backing plates avoiding welding. This was particularly necessary as the fronts had already been beautifully chromed.
Cheers
Ed

 

looks fantastic!

 

OK - I've finally got a rolling painted working chassis to show. Here are some pictures. It's much stiffer than a standard 1932 frame and everything seems to fit together. The front bones are from Speedway. We had them chromed. We also had the new reproduction Lincoln drums chromed. The front axle is a dropped Henry and the backing plates are cherry 1940 chromed.
I used the stock 1946 pedals and mastercylinder mount. The rear bones are 1946ish welded to a Model-a yoke. transmission is a S10 T5.
If you look at the backing plates you'll see the stainless steel inserts I had turned up to mount the cycle fenders.
Exhaust hangers are 1946 chassis parts, the transmission mount, rear shock mounts and the parking brake mounting bracket were all chopped out of a 1930 Ford Model-A center crossmember. I never throw that old steel out.It's better than the new stuff!
the rear crossmember is an a modified Model-A the front too.
Ed

 

Beautiful work! I'm looking forward to seeing the front fender brackets and style fender you use. Bob

 

nicely done!

It looks like you're using the rear spreader as a bumper of sorts. Any particular rationale for making the frame horns bolt on rather than welded in their new position/orientation?

 

Here's a few more pictures I had on my phone
Ed

 

My customer wasn't sure whether he wanted to run the spreader bar or not so the bolt on bar gave him a with or without option.

 

Very nice work!

 

Hi Ed,
that is a beautiful chassis!!!!!
Wow I`m impressed!

Two questions and one suggestion.

Why did you choose a single circut MC ?
Will the center crossmember "hump" be under the front seat ?

Ad a Torque bar (like Hotrodworks sell) to the rear as the rear bones are not able to
handle the power of a Flathead.
They will bend.

Regards
Michael

 

Customer wanted a single circuit. The body has a slight tunnel in it. I would add a torque bar but my customer has run out of money and is refusing any further investment. We only have a 100hp flathead in it. It's also not been built to race 1/4 mile but to cruise and drive in.

Ed

 

Hi Ed,
it`s the torque and the braking power that will bend them , even with a small engine.
They are only 2mm thick.....not 4mm like front ones.
Just make sure your customer knows that.
Michael

 

Considering how inexpensive a torque bar would be, I would pay for it myself rather than take a chance on getting the bad name that would come with a structural failure of a key part.

I look at this frame and I CAN'T imagine anyone complaining about the cost.
Thats beyond beautiful.

You've made up my mind on using an available late X member..I know that!!!
Awesome job.

 

Just saw this thread, Very nice work Ed....

 

very cool

 

Awesome!!! Thanks for sharing!!!

 

Another one being riveted up next week. I'll post photos. This one is a bit different again.
Ed

 

Great work Ed, any pictures of the completed car, or at least with the body sitting on the frame? I assume the rear drop in the bolt-on frame horns is to clear the rear of the A body?

 

Yes, I did a thread on the A-V8 roadster which went on it. Check out the other threads I started and you'll find it.
Ed


Twitter @edsrodshop

 

Thanks Ed, found it - I remember it now. Did you shorten the rear frame horns much, as well as make them removable?