Technical 1932 Pickup Rebuild Thread UPDATED 1/11/16

Perfect! Thanks for the answer. Mine is a 33, and didn't see where that little
seal would have fit.
I'm going to put my steering box back together now.
Thanks again for the great tech thread!

 

Hay Larry I brought all of the parts off that truck that he is not going to use .

 

Hey Dennis. I started on your wheels today. Got the outside hoops parted off. I'll keep you posted.

 

SWEET! Thanks for the update, Danny. It just wouldn't have been the same with narrow stock wheels in the back. So glad we could make this deal.

 

Maybe from my cold, dead ones...

 

We've only ever used gear oil in the steering gears because that is was they are intended to have in them, whether they leak or not.

If you contact the shop we could probably sell you a seal for your future use.

 

UPDATE

Today at lunch I finished up the front brake line install by drilling and tapping two 1/4-20 holes in the front cross member for retainer clip bolts. I also put clips on the side line and drilled a 5th clip to 5/16" and put it on the back of the K-member. There is a gap at the K-member clip to take into account that the mounting flange of the battery support will eventually also go under this clip and the top bolt of the master cylinder bracket (which is why there is a gap between the bracket and K-member.) All of the line mounting clips are stamped Ford originals from the 40's. Back when I was building my Deuce-railed T roadster I collected up a bag of these original clips and as luck would have it I have exactly enough left to do the truck!

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Stay tuned, Monday is 283 day!

 

Can`t wait.......




Hey Larry......I`m a bit confused now. Since I thought you were buying one of Neal`s Fordors, I had changed you in my notations to 7w Larry. Now, I suppose I`ll have to change you to 2W Larry??

 

you big dummy...a pickup has 3 windows

 

This is so funny. I had been waiting to finish my PU then ask Larry permission to change my name to 3wWyatt. I didn't know if anyone would get it.

 

Subscribed

 

I'd say do it. We need to change him to no window Larry. [emoji8]

 

Performance specs... He could accelerate from 3 to 7 and back down to 0 in a big hurry.
Now let's cut the high jacking.

 

At least the hi-jacking is keeping my thread towards the top of the page!

 

Oh, it's a bump.

 

True.I can`t type well, add much or subtract late at night. Maybe owning a real `32 Roadster Pickup would make you No Window Larry, then? Danny--is that close?

Sorry Dennis......

 

Freaking awesome thread. My iPhone 6 plus can't even load the 12th page because of the tech over load.

 

UPDATE

Today at lunch I modified my original 1932 V8 front engine mount brackets to fit the Chevy.

The hole spacing on the Chevy engine is closer together than the flathead spacing so new upper 3/8" holes were drilled 1-5/8" on center from the existing lower holes. The excess tops of the mounts were then cut off flush at the bottoms of the original upper holes and the new upper corners radiused. There was also a slight raised area left behind just above the new upper holes so that had to be ground flat for the bolt heads to properly seat.

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On the backside there was a raised pad area for the original upper hole. With the top of the mount cut off I had to grind what remained of the raised area so that it is flat. I will use washers of the proper thickness so that there is a raised area around the new upper holes that matches the raised area of the bottom holes.

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The original mounting bolts for the flathead are 7/16" and the Chevy uses 3/8" bolts. I drilled some 7/16" rod on the lathe to 3/8" ID and made these half inch long bushings for the lower holes.

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Bolted up (with temporary bolts) and fit like it was meant to be!

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The up and down location of the mounts is the same, relative to the crank shaft center line, as a flathead. The spread of the holes where the mount biscuits attach is also exactly 12" just like on the flathead. It almost like it was done on purpose...

 

I hope I'm wrong bubba, but you might have a clearance problem with your new brake line and the crank pulley. The front crossmember has to be notched pretty good to clear your two pulleys

 

Judging from those pictures I will have a mile of clearance. The line is only a 1/4" behind the U-bolts. I will be using a single groove pulley, too. I can't mount it yet because it doesn't have the additional holes to clear the rivets on the balancer like the double groove pulley has in the pictures above.

The cross member above is trimmed more than necessary. I will do mine the bare minimum so that I can just get the fan belt on and off.

 

I can now say with absolute certainty that the brake line is not an issue, far from it!

I didn't have the camera with me today because the wife wanted it for an outing with the kids but a lot of good stuff happened and I will get pictures up tomorrow night.

Not that it's my first time fitting and SBC into an original '32 but it amazes me how damn good they fit!

 

They actually fit better than a flathead does.

 

MAJOR UPDATE


So, yeah, I've been really busy the last few days! Happy to report that the 283 SBC fits absolutely perfect in the old truck. I also mocked up all of the parts and accessories to make sure there wouldn't be any fit issues.


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The only cutting required (on the truck) is to take a notch out of the center of the front cross member for crank damper and pulley clearance. I removed more material than needed so that down the line a double groove pulley set can be installed should I ever be inclined to take advantage of the built-in A/C compressor mounts on the water pump riser. (You never know!) The modified '32 V8 engine brackets work perfect and Larry can now have relief that the brake tube is nowhere near in danger of interfering with the engine.


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The reproduction exhaust manifolds from Summit fit well and although it's hard to see there is an 1/8th” of clearance at the column tube. Since the engine torques to the right I shouldn't have any problems. On a passenger car there would be more clearance because the column angle isn't as steep.


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There's a mile of clearance between the reproduction GM 17” fan and the Walker radiator. I will probably end up installing a fan spacer to get the fan closer where it will pull the most air. I'm also considering a fan shroud.


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I cut 3/8-16 threads in the lower front mount of the fake generator and with it attached to the inside of the built-in alternator mount the belt alignment is perfect. I will need to fabricate a support for the rear lower mount of the generator and I already know, more or less, how I'm going to do it.


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Since I wasn't able to locate an original generator adjuster arm that the water pump riser instructions suggest I had bought a generic chrome arm from Speedway hoping that it would work. Come to find out it really wouldn't work that well at all. Thankfully I hadn't thrown away the mounting arm that came with the engine, which had the alternator mounted in front of the block on the passenger side. As absolute luck would have it, this old used arm fits perfect! It's also much smaller which means once restored it will kind of blend in and be less obtrusive.


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I had to space the air filter up about 3” so that it didn't interfere with the generator. The spacers come from Jegs.


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At Danny Burroughs suggestion, I sliced the upper/center bell housing bolt boss off and ground down the gusset a bit which turned out to be just barely enough to miss the firewall. There is about a 1/32” gap there! When the engine comes back out I'm going to remove more of the gusset and also make it match the angle of the firewall so there will be plenty of clearance.


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Plenty of clearance between the back corner of the engine and the brake pedal.


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Overall inside view.


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With the success of the engine test-fit I decided to have some fun and mount my Guide headlights. The Speedway headlight brackets worked out perfect and are of very good quality, not to mention half the price of the same parts from SoCal Speed Shop. I was a little worried that these brackets would sit the lights too low but I am very pleased with the positioning.


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And now for some gratuitous overall mock up pictures!


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With the weight of the engine in the frame the front suspension came down several inches. Now I can design and make some upper front shock mounts. There's a few other things to fit and then the engine can come back out, get cleaned up and a few fresh coats of dark Ford engine green!

 

The pickup is looking fantastic. Those guides are my new favorite headlight. I'm running a pair on my coupe.

 

Love the mock-ups, looking good.

 

Well ... that's nice !

 

I be happy

 

Widening a pair of 18"s for this truck.

 

looking good!

 

Those widened 18s look awesome.