Technical 1932 Pickup Rebuild Thread UPDATED 1/11/16

Times two!!!

Is it just me who find the the chrome light trim and chromed rear ligths don't go well with the paint grill and the humble look of a work truck.

Where is the hood?

 

Love it!!!! Excellent work!!!!

 

'32 trucks came with stainless tail light buckets. 33 and later trucks used painted steel buckets.

 

Dennis. Just put spacers under the motor mount. I put a 7/8" spacer under my dads 32 5 window.

 

Dennis. I also make a bolt on tube shock mounts for early 32 rear ends. I can send you a set if you want. They put the shock between the frame and the wheel.

 

Really like the wheels and tires. Danny, won't the spacers under the front motor mounts effect the alignment where the trans bolts into the rubber mount in the K member? Never ran a torque tube/original trans setup so have no knowledge how critical this is.

 

Not to break us the gushing party but it looks like it needs to be lower. Front and rear. Swap the oil pan when you pull the engine for detail work maybe?

 

Maybe the pan can be made for clearance while its out, don't lift the truck up please.

 

There's nothing more I can do to lower the front besides modifying or replacing the front cross member and that's not going to happen. I wouldn't want the front any lower than it already is. The rear is going to come down noticeably. Right now it has a stock spring with 5 leaves removed. It will be replaced with a reversed eye spring that has also been de-arched 2 inches.

The oil pan has nothing to do with the tie rod clearance problem, the pan is a mile away. It's the harmonic damper/crank pulley that are too close. Either the engine needs to move up or the tie rod needs to go down.

 

Danny,

I'm not opposed to this at all but at the moment there's a sliver of light between the gusset for the center clutch housing bolt hole and the bottom lip of the firewall. I refuse to cut the firewall. I guess since I already cut the bolt boss off then the gusset isn't doing much? How did you deal with this on your Dad's car?

 

The taillights and wire shields behind them are going to be replaced with black bodies and shields with stainless trim rings to match the front lights. I have these on our next wholesale order.

The truck will absolutely have the full, stock hood. I would have put it on for the pictures but installing it is a two person job and I didn't have a helper.

 

Sounds like the easiest thing to do would be to build a new tie rod. A drop section in the center would be easy to make happen. Some 4340 A and a torch will get it done. Magnaflux afterward to check for cracks.

 

I had a faint memory of you posting you wanted to run a full hood.
I'm glad you didn't change your mind about that!

 

You running the 8 or 6 inch dampner?

 

Sorry but the oil pan comment. Wyatt feels stupid now, yes I just used X3 person.

 

Pain in the butt to adjust though, have to keep knocking one end off the spindle arm for every adjustment

 

I've made a dropped one with an adjustment sleeve in the center with left and right threads.

 

No problem. It just puts a little strain on the rubber mount, but it's very minute.

 

Good idea there.

 

I have done three cars like this and I've just cut the top off the adapter.

 

What's not to like???

 

It's about 6.5". I looked around for a smaller and reasonably priced damper but 6" is about the smallest I could find which would only net 1/4" savings in clearance. That still doesn't fix it because the crank pulley is 6.75" and at full steer the tie rod is directly under the pulley.

I considered doing exactly this. Before I make any changes I will try out some spacers on the motor mounts. I sure would like to leave it sitting like it is in front. I'll just have to cut more off of the clutch housing.

 

That picture you posted, is a way different car. It has chrome trim around the grill, it has a shiny head ligths bar and 4 chromed ligth trim rings.
I bet it has chromed windshield frame, rear ligths housing and trim and front and rear bumper.
That might be a beautiful car, but I want my trucks fast(er then stock), reliable and low service requirements.
Like checking fluids and air, oil leaks and then drive it to the end of the world.

 

Have any pictures Danny?

 

On my flathead powered '32 project I cheated the front of the engine upwards 3/4 inch or so as well. It didn't seem to hurt the rear trans mount any. But if you had only 3/4 inch clearance between the damper and tie rod, it's not enough.

 

I'm working on taking some.

 

Making a mental list of all the things Danny (hot rod pro) makes that I will need for my next 32 chassis... Great stuff!

 

I was going to suggest the old trick of Willys dropped tie rod ends, but went back to earlier pics and see that with the way you've set up the steering arms that won't work here.

As for the rear, in addition to spring mods, '46-8 rear shackles will give you another 5/8" drop and still look period/Ford.

 

Uncle Bob, What are the correct part numbers for those Moog (Willys) dropped tie rod ends? Thanks

 

It doesn't need to be super low. It's a truck. it'll look great at any height.

Mart.