Really nice build, I hope to do a 40s style build myself. It inspires me alot to look in your thread. /Mikael
Man the stance of your car, wheel/tire combo, how everything sets while looking at the side profile, is just perfect - fantastic work!
I've been trying to get the last chassis fab done so I can get the frame to paint. I pretty much just need to build the exhaust, plumb it, and final weld a couple areas and it'll be ready to get blasted. I started the exhaust this week. The rear sections are a pair of '35-36 driveshafts. I haven't determined the final length yet, but they'll probably be cut 2-3" in front of the axle tube. Between the Fenton manifolds and the driveshafts, I'll be using some 2" stainless. I'm running a MCF full flow oil filter. I had one on my '34 truck, and liked it. Since this is going to be another road trip vehicle, I figured I'd put one on it too. I did some research on here, and found the smallest version of the standard Ford Filter to save some space. I also relocated the mounting flange of the oil filter mount about 1/2" closer toward the filter to save some more space. All this combined sets it up for simple plumbing that isn't dynamic, and gives me enough room to keep the exhaust above the bottom edge of the frame rail. I made a small boss that is welded to the oil pan to mount the filter assembly.
Really nice build ...... stance and tire combo are spot on....and that license plate frame is tits! Love the car man, good job!
The past week or so has been a thrash on the car trying to get all of the fab complete on the chassis so I can get the frame blasted this Saturday morning - then it's onto paint. I finished up the exhaust. I still need to add a gusset on the rear mount....I plan on having these coated in a satin black finish, and wrapping the majority of the system. Also, the picture of the oil filter looks close to the exhaust but it's not...just a bad perspective: After the exhaust, I disassembled the chassis, put it back in the jig, and did some final welding and detail work that I couldn't get to with the car at ride height: Once the frame and the rest of the chassis parts are to the painter, I'll wrap up the small things on the body and get it on its way as well.
The frame was blasted and dropped off at the painters last Sunday. I wrapped up the metal work on the suspension parts so I can get those there this week too. I wanted to get the top set up before the body went to paint, so I mocked the body up at ride height. I had Brookville's 3" chop windshield kit on the car already, but wanted to go a bit lower. I modeled the top from my buddy John Swander's latest car. I already had leaned the posts back 10 degrees in the previous photos. I made a quick jig for chopping the stanchions. I took another 1 1/2" out, to make it a 4 1/2" chop. I also pie cut the stancions and bent the outside wall inboard to prevent a step from the chop. For irons, I used a LeBaron Bonney top kit, and a Sid Chavers header board for a longer overhang on the windshield. I had to throw a sheet over it real quick to get an idea of the overall shape....I think it looks good, and I still have plenty of room inside with the seat I built.
I really like the look of the 3 1/2" chop windshield but have some concerns about fitting in my car. I was able to try a 2 1/2 with a Chavers top and had a few issues but the guys seat was way to far forward. Yours is back under the lip and allow you to stretch out more. How Much room do you have and how tall are you? Thanks
I'm around 5'7". My windshield frame is a 4 1/2" chop, plus it's laid back 10 degrees. After looking at the photos I posted so more, I'm going to try to lower the middle bow some to reduce the rise of the top tonight....
Thanks for the info. I'm 6'4 so as much as I love the looks there is probably no way I could go that low. I must tell you have nailed the look of the car for me. Cant wait to see the finished car. -Jim
I'm running a little slower on the car right now due to working on another project. The rise of the top was bugging me some, so I lowered the middle bow about 1"....it seems to flow much better to me. Please excuse the poorly formed window opening - bed sheets don't like the radius..... I hadn't posted these earlier, but here are a couple of the frame over at the painter's after blasting.
I stopped by the hardware store and got a bunch of rolls of cheap masking tape to layout a more defined top. Overall, I really like the shape, and came up with a window opening that I like too. The top of the window opening is actually about 2 degrees down compared to the door top, but it looks parallel in most of the photos. I don't care for the window openings that go uphill..... At least this could be a good pattern for sewing a top too.
Amazing build! Pictures and narrative are excellent. I've read the entire post and guess I missed the size of rear tires and wheels, as well as inside offset. Their fit is PERFECT! Thanks!
Cory, top sure looks super! The level of your build sets a new standard for mere mortals like me. I'm going to start sleeping with my head wrapped with aluminum foil to see if that will help me. Thanks for sharing all your work, Bob
Thanks Bob, looking forward to the LA trip. I had sent my steering drop and steering box off to Baxter to be gone through. They just came back today - here's a couple shots of the drop. I wasn't expecting it to be painted. I think a little bit of color sanding and some buffing will make it look even better.
As I had said before, this car has one high-tech feature - an electric park brake module to actuate the emergency brakes. I picked up a Cadillac CTS unit from the local salvage yard that included the apply cable for $75. The CTS cable system is similar to the Ford setup where the apply cable pulls across one cable hooked to both emergency brakes. Since I was planning to mount this in the trunk out of sight, I made a bell crank to join the apply cable to the two cables from my rear drums. It gives me the option for ratio adjustment (if needed), and allows easy hook up for the system. The cables attach to the bell crank with clevis, and I have some adjust on the brake cable side to fine tune the cables. The sheaths will run through the floor on either side, and leave some short and clean cables. I mounted the module and bell crank to my body brace behind the seat. The module will be triggered on and off with a 3-position momentary toggle, that I'll probably mount behind the dash out of sight. I bench tested the stuff, and everything works great - so it should be a pretty cool setup to get rid of an emergency brake stick. Here is a shot of the setup, and one further back....next up is fabbing a mount for the battery - and yes I know, I need to get some final kleen and a scotch brite and clean the surface rust off haha.
I've been getting things ready to head to the painter's. I stopped by there this weekend to get some epoxy primer for the body, and took a couple shots of the frame parts. After that, I did some final welding on the floor, grinding, dolly work - and shot the inner panels and floor panels in epoxy primer.
did you make these spring hangers (shackles)? they look awesome! they look like so cal speed shop shackles..
I buttoned up the lower end tonight, which included installing the MCF oil pump, and adjusting the oil pickup height. I had about 6lbs shaved off the back of the flywheel, and had it rebalanced with the pressure plate too. The timing cover, oil pan and water pumps went on after that. I ordered all of the engine fasteners from Roy Nacewicz. I'm still waiting for the longer studs to show up hanging the generator off of the passenger head (hopefully tomorrow), so I can mask the heads and paint the motor this weekend.
Loving this thread - thanks for posting Cory. Do you have any pics and / or details of the column drop modifications? Thanks Chris