I see this is in 2 pieces. Shrinker-stretcher used in the corner and edge? The step area, how is that done, on a break while the piece is straight, then the corner is where the shrinker-stretcher comes in? The reason I asked a that I need to a rear window opening like this one. Someone in the past has flattened out the detail on this lower picture and I have it 24 years and would like to repair it. (Below-look @ edges of pic.) Thx, CK
Yes, I bend two “Z” channels on the press break then shrink the top and stretch the bottom a little bit at a time. Then I weld the two together after fitting everything. For your rear window opening. I would cut it out and weld in a sedan rear window. The shape of sedan is a little different, but it would be easier to modify it to coupe than to reprofile the entire opening. FYI I have a sedan I could cut the window out of, PM me if you are interested.
I am amazed at your craftsmanship. When I lengthened the doors for my rpu I thought it was a big project but I didn't have any wood to contend with. I was surprised how little rigidity the components had when separated. I made a fixture to hold the shape so they would match the body when assembled. It was a success.
Thanks, That is one hell of a fixture! Once I get the wood frame in it should solidify...then I can get back to the hammer and dolly. Without the frame it is pretty fragile Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It’s a shame it’ll only get used for two doors but I’m not planning on doing another rpu at my age. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Started on the metal work on the second door. This door is in much better shape. I also made the latch mounts for both doors. I made a couple of these for the other doors. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
When you are mocking up these patches and jamb parts, do you test fit it on your body? What are you using to keep the door square?
I especially like the commitment to saving as much original sheetmetal as possible, even if it means awkward cut lines. I think a lot of builders would whack the bottom foot or so off without a second thought because it's easier.
I have another set of doors I can compare them with, but they are so flimsy now without any structure it’s more measurements. Once I get the wooden frame in them they should firm up for more body work. The wooden structure is surprisingly strong and it is the best reference I have of truth. Once the frame is in, I will offer them up to the cowl and rear quarters to verify. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
damn, it just keeps gettin better. these are all great photos and techniques that will be studied by every roadster builder for years and years. thanks so much for your efforts there. its not a restoration, its a documented how to build since so many of these roadsters are just bits and pieces in the world today. i hope to have one myself some day, thanks again for your efforts
Thanks for the encouragement, having fun with it and hopefully help out a few builds in the process Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Here is the wood for the passenger door roughed out and laminated Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Installed the hinges. I use a rod that is the same thickness as the hinge pins to ensure they are aligned. To mount the hinge, two machine screws are used with a nut keeper and square nuts. This gives you the ability to tighten the screws without removing the door card. Bill Monzo made the keepers and the check strap guide plates...really excellent work! The other two holes in the hinge are filled with a #12 flat head wood screw Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I’ve been working on my 3 window the last week. Getting ready to put a floor in it. I made the floor stiffeners for the roadster floor while I had the coupe floor accessible. I cut a piece of 1.5 inch square tube in half lengthwise. I pie cut them to get the angle of the stiffener, then pressed the sides flat where they rest on the frame rails and center crossmember. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Those look great, kinda like everything else![emoji41] Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
never knew the roadsters had them, but it makes sense as most converts have a stronger frame of some sort. you had some rotten originals to look at?
I’ve been working on my coupe the past month or so. Taking a break and do a little roadster work. I removed the “hoop” from the rear clip and had it media blasted. Welded up the holes created cutting the spot welds. I’m planning on using the original, but while I have it out I’m planning on making a buck for the “hoop” to go along with the b-pillar top brackets. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
