1933 Ford BB Truck 4 Cylider

I have a 1933 Ford BB Truck 4 Cylider that I am trying to start but need help with the starter, there is a wire hanging down that I have no idea where it goes. We think we may be able to start the the engine and run it before we begin modifying it into a Hot Rod.

Thanks
-Enrique

 

That really does not tell us anything. Should be a metal rod coming up through the floor off the starter...push that down, and the starter moves.

 

Looks like there are 3 wires, one from the battery and the other goes to the starter and there is another smaller wire hanging from that starter switch? It seems like the rod is connected to a switch which has 3 wires coming from it.

 

There are two style switches used on 4 cylinder engines. I'll cover both and you can determine what you have. The 4 cylinder starters are basically the same 28-34 the switches on top are different. The earlier "A" starters have a start switch body bolted directly on top of the starter with 4 small machine screws. The negative battery cable is hooked to a stud at the forward part of the switch. To activate the starter your foot depresses a long rod that sticks though the floorboard. This bends a conductor strip in the stater switch body to make contact with a ground and the battery lead, bingo the starter spins.

The 32 "B" switch is similar and fastens on the top of the starter the same way. This time instead of depressing a rod through the floorboard to start the flow of electricity there is a cable controlled lever actuated cam. The cable control is on the steering column mount and by pulling this cable it rotates the lever completing the circuit the same way as the foot pedal unit..

The later steering column mounted starter switch had the negative wire from the battery connecting on one terminal side and and another terminal with a heavy cable going from the opposite side to the starter post terminal. Again this switch was activated by your foot pressing down on a rod to close the circuit and electrifying the starter.

The wire that you are seeing connected to the terminal are the remains of the power connection that supplied power to the light circuit or the ignition circuit. These circuits both draw power from the batter cable lug on the negative battery lead at the stater switch connection. On all starter switch hot side connections (-) you should have the negative battery cable, a eye ring for the headlite harness and an eye ring connection for the ignition circuit. Trace out your wires and you are good to go.

 

Here are a few pics that I took. There is a wire harness that splits from the firewall on the drivers side, one is connected to the generator and the other is connected to the starter switch which spits again into a y and is loose? Not sure where these go to, I was thinking that they would connect to a switch attached to the transmission as there are 2 screws and a post that seems there was something connected to this before.

There is another wire connected to the starter switch that is hanging and not connected to anything?

If someone can help please let me know.

Thanks
-Enrique

 

On the first of your three pictures, the white box is a voltage regulator that has been added at some point. It is not part of the original wiring. On the picture of the starter switch, it appears to be the foot operated switch that seems to be wired OK. The switch in the other picture looks like a stop light switch. It should not affect the starting circuit.

 

I managed to get the engine to crank over and verified that there is spark going to the distributor. Now I am going to clean the spark plugs and see where that takes me. Not too sure if the carb is working or not since the fuel line was cut I filled a bottle of gas and ran a hose to it. This is the latest update for my 4-banger truck. I plan to work in it the next few days but I don't think I will be able to purchase an spark plugs locally without ordering them. Does anyone have any suggestions on buying some sparks plugs to fit this 1933 4-banger?

 

Plugs are available from Autoloite and Champion, at least...or the Ford dealers like Mr Spadaro.
Since your wiring is a mess...for now remove all the small wires and tape out of the way.
Coil is staraight 6V, so just remove its raggedy wires too, make a good wire to distrib, one straight to battery. Sort out the wiring later...yours is modified, I think, and will need some thought. What does the generator look like on that?

 

I was able purchase some plugs from Napa locally, I do have fire now but it seems the fuel pump is not working. I removed the fuel pump and plan to rebuild it, is it possible to try to fire this engine without a feul pump just to see if it will run?

 

Gravity feed it. Do you have a motorcycle or lawn mower tank? Something with a drain on the bottom that can be mounted higher than the carburetor.

If you just wanna hear it pop and bang for a few seconds then starting fluid or aerosol carb cleaner and a quick nozzle finger will do the trick.

 

Thanks to all, I gravity fed it and was able to get it started today. It was the coolest thing to hear it pop and run for a few minutes. Now that I know it runs I have several plans for it. I will post some new pics later.

-Rico