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1933 Phaeton Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Salt Flats Speed Shop, May 23, 2012.

  1. Pewsplace
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,795

    Pewsplace
    Member

    Nice work on both the center transmission X and the rear X. Clean and tidy like it came that way.
     
  2. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,991

    Mart
    Member

    Nice work!

    Mart.
     
  3. sierra rod shop
    Joined: Feb 16, 2011
    Posts: 381

    sierra rod shop
    Member

    cant wait to see it done
     
  4. ken1939
    Joined: Jul 5, 2008
    Posts: 1,558

    ken1939

    Still looking great. Slight modification to the headers, heck if there wasnt anything to modify and you bolted everything together, wheres the fun :)

    Said before, straightforward, methodical, well though out.
     
  5. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,991

    Mart
    Member

    I noticed the f1 type steering box is mounted forward of the normal location. Did you do this to try and maintain the correct steering column angle? Do you envisage any problems from having a shorter than normal drag link?

    Mart.
     
  6. ss34coupe
    Joined: May 13, 2007
    Posts: 4,260

    ss34coupe
    Member

    I like the way you are putting the chassis together. Some innovative ideas using the modified trans mount and placing the steering box forward of the stock location. Keep the pics coming!
     
  7. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah


    One thing we were looking at when we were mocking up the steering box was the angle of the steering wheel. When we put it in the stock location the steering wheel was really flat with the bottom of the steering wheel really far out. So we moved the box forward more until that brougt the steering wheel more in line with what my buddys original 34' steering wheel angle was. Now we got this F1 box from the early ford store already restored and with the new steering shaft in it for the early steering wheels. So I'm sure if you were to get one that maybe the shaft was a different length then it would have to be mocked up different.

    As for the drag link its still rotating the same amount and pushing and pulling the same. The distance of the drag link shouldn't really effect anything. It would be the length of the pitman arm or front steering arm that would change the ratio.
     
  8. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    I worked on making up some spring hangers today and got the rear spring mounted to the axle. Now I just have to get shocks figured out.



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  9. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    I've been working on the exhaust routing it through the frame. And we also got the aluminum drive line made.



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  10. caveman3094
    Joined: Jan 14, 2013
    Posts: 13

    caveman3094
    Member

    Man you do nice work. This is the kind of stuff i hope ill be doing later on in my future.
     
  11. carbuilder
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 982

    carbuilder
    Member

    Whos open drive shaft conversion are you using on the diff.
     
  12. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    The open drive kit, and the 9" axle conversion are both from Hot Rod Works in Idaho. Their quality is second to none.
     
  13. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    I've been working more on the exhaust and brake lines. I got most all the exhaust run. I made up straight pipes that exit in front of the muffler and exit out by the running board. These will have a plug in the end so that he can decide wither he wants it loud or not.



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  14. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,299

    alchemy
    Member

    That looks like a lot of heat sitting right next to the master cylinder. Are you going to build a heat shield?
     
  15. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    Ya, i'll build some sort of heat shield coated in that lizard skin ceramic coating. I'll also be ceramic coating the headers and that first section of exhaust. And if that's not enough I can wrap the exhaust with the fiberglass wrap. But for sure I'll make sure to keep the master cylinder as cool as possible.
     
  16. Beautiful project great work. This is giving me more inspiration to work on my project.

    Frenchy
     
  17. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    A little update on the project. The owner decided that it would be cost effective to buy a new steel phaeton from Australia then continue dumping money into the original one. So he struck the deal and we got the new body. I haven't had much chance to work on the car because of the change but I did get the new body and the engine on the frame for my open house.



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  18. Is that original body going to be up for sale?
     
  19. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah


    It sure is. He just wants to get out of it so he can move on.
     
  20. bobby_Socks
    Joined: Apr 12, 2006
    Posts: 938

    bobby_Socks
    Member
    from ǑǃƕǑ

    How much is the engine moved back and did you move it back because of the ignition system that is being run with the engine or is there another reason ?

    Thanks for the latest pictures and now show us some more of the open house(please)
     
  21. The new one is an American version from Australia? Weird!
     
  22. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    We are running a brassworks radiator and an electric fan, So basically I placed the radiator and fan on the car and put the engine up as close as we wanted it to the fan. I just wanted to make sure that wouldn't be an issue with clearance.

    As for pictures I was like a chicken with my head cut off talking to everyone so i'm just waiting to get pictures back from my buddies that had a chance to take some. Once I get those back I'll post for sure.
     
  23. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    I know right, kind of funny.
     
  24. The work you did on those doors is amazing. Your work is straight up awesome.

    I love phaetons and will be following this one. I'd take that patched original body over the reproduction any day though. I'm not nearly as interested with that new body on it now.

    The customer was wrong on this one. :rolleyes:

    JH
     
  25. killbilly
    Joined: Mar 29, 2009
    Posts: 283

    killbilly
    Member

    I agree with Harrison,kind of sucks the wind out of it,I guess we just really watching you do some great work..
     
  26. I have a question going back to the early part of the build concerning the chassis. Early on you show the '36 rear hung on the ( what appear to be?) stock hangers and spring. Does the combination of the longer hangers ( than the '34 hangers) and straight spring put the rear back in its original location? I ask because I have the same rear going in my '34 but I don't have a spring yet. I know the '34 spring is curved and I may have to modify the spring or pocket to fit.

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1376137154.544619.jpg

    What spring is this and what is modified here???

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1376137173.441970.jpg




    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  27. ken1939
    Joined: Jul 5, 2008
    Posts: 1,558

    ken1939

    Was the replacement from Waddington?
     

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