Technical 1936 axle in a 1933

I've been doing a lot of reading and not getting the answers I am looking for.
I know the spring on the 33 is curved, and the one on the 36 is straight. What i'm looking for is the dimension from centerline of axle, to center of the spring mount. Are they the same?
Meaning, if I install the 36 rear and spring into the 33 by modifing the spring, or crossmember to fit the straight spring, will the wheel base be the same as the original 33?

how much wider is a 36 over the 33?

 

Ill guess you are talking about the bones formed in spring mount ?
The 36 will be a couple inches bigger/longer than the 33 from cl axle to cl spring.

The 36 spring and axle would push the wheel base forward in a 33 frame some- not the full 2" though. but I don't think the straight spring would fit into the curve either, you'll need to address that.

Is that what you needed ?

 

Or did you need something extrapolated from cl axle to crossmember centering hole?

 

Yes, extrapolate

 

Here a 35 up frame drawing.
http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatalog/Tech/FrameDiagram1935-40.pdf
Should be able to scale it from axle cl to crossmember. The 35 up crossmber depth is even with the top of the main frame rail.

Here's a 33,34 frame
http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatalog/Tech/FrameDiagram1933-34.pdf

 

The dimension isn't listed on either blueprint.

 

Grind the '36 spring to fit the '33 crossmember; it will work.

See Eric's post #10.
Sounds like you may have to slice and dice or change the crossmember on a '33-'34; it's been 40+ years since I had my silver '33 that came with a straight spring from the previous owner. I always thought the spring was just ground like you would on a deuce, must have been some other mods there too.

 

That's why I said "you should be able to scale it".

To Scale a drawing means to measure the drawing at its drawn or printed scale and derive the desired dimension.

 

FWIW
The distance from the spring center to the center of the banjo should be the same for both.
Jack

 

The spring center pin location is same in relation to banjo , spring is curved so the perches are shorter on 32-34 rears on a 32 you can grind notches in a 35-48 spring to fit , however I tried this on my 34 frame and it appears that crossmember was formed differnt enough to not make this modification feasible

 

There are pictures somewhere here or on the Ford barn showing the grinding to fit late spring into '32-34 crossmember. It isn't too drastic. If I did it, I would then dis***emble the spring and redo the ground edges to a slight radius and polish a bit to avoid making stress risers.

 

This has a tiny picture of grinding locations: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=151938&highlight=spring

another:

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113593&highlight=spring

 

thanks Bruce

 

I don't like grinding the spring but it is done all the time. I prefer to modify the center crossmember and make it straight. There are several threads on here showing how they did the modification. If you go to Salt Flats Speed Shop site and click on 34 phaeton you will see how he did it. The wb will be the same. 112 inches.

The beer bottle hides the modification some but you can see how he made the center straight to accommodate the spring.

 

It worked this time. Won't upload now will try later.

 

thanks @Pewsplace
http://saltflatsspeedshop.com/33phaeton.html

looks like it was flattened too. I am running fenders, so I don't want to flatten it out.

 

ah ha!
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1933-phaeton-build.701029/page-3