Hello Everyone. New here. Recently acquired a 1936 Buick Series 40 4 door. Has 9" ford rear with 4 link. Fatman IFS I have to install. For driveline I'm considering 454 BBC/T400 combo. Anyone done similar and can share insights on fitment/clearance issues?
Narrow engine bay, measure twice, it's going to be tight. A Nailhead would fit much better and easier.
I've seen a few non SBC swaps in these, and BJR is right, its a tight fit, and alot of the larger displacement ones seem really shoehorned in there. ***uming the 36 is pretty similar underneath to my '37 series 60, the front frame rails are very narrow between them, along with the inner fenders, and i could see bulk and length of a big automatic possibly causing a headache with the X frame. i know you mention IFS, but the steering column/ linkage and where it comes out of the firewall will probably also get in your way. Im not sure about the floor, but im guessing there would be some cutting. This is a time if you or someone has a spare block and trans, i would try and do a rough test fit before going too far with building up an engine. Or even one of those prop styrofoam blocks
I am putting a 401 Nailhead and Th400 in one of my 40s and yes, it is a tight fit. Shifting the engine over about 3/4" will help and using the short tail shaft extension on the 400 will help at the x member, although you may have to trim the x a little. The other one I decided to go with a 292 Chevy six as it will clear everything.
yes sir. I figured it would be super tight. Cutting the floor and fabbing a new tunnel isn't an issue but I didn't know if I would have to cut and recess firewall. Was planning on buying block and trans and mocking up before building engine but was hoping to run into someone who has done similar. Thank you for your response
Thank you for your response. I believe the nailhead is narrower than the BBC. I may have to change direction and go SBC
Buick along those years designed the frame and Sheetmetal to coincide with the straight 8. Long and narrow in the front. Coupled with the fact the hood sides are part of the outer fender stamping compounds things. In my research, Buick changed the frame dimensions slightly in 37 and used that frame up to 42 in all series except the Roadmaster and Limited. The bodies changed some in 40, with the 50 series being 5" wider, which moved the column out 2-1/2" giving more room for exhaust. The Nailhead is still a tight fit, requiring front dump exhaust manifolds. The 40 series stayed the same width from 37 up to 41. Even a narrower engine such as the Nailhead requires stacked up accessories such as alternator, PS, and A/C. Fortunately, there are many companies that make those brackets for SBC/BBC. Putting in a BBC will be a challenge. Cutting out the firewall/****** tunnel and x-member may allow putting the engine/****** combo back far enough to clear but will mean using electric fans on the radiator. I mocked up mine using a bare 364 block and empty TH400 case, similar to your planning. That helps greatly and will reveal obstacles. I wanted to keep the bench seat in my car and opted to use an early C10 steering column and Corvette steering box.
There was one. And at 637 ci and somewhere north of 1200 lbs, it probably isn't the best choice for a mid 30's Buick. Plus good luck finding a rebuild kit for an engine that was only manufactured for a few years in the late 60's and limited to Heavy truck and bus applications.
Thank you so much for your insight. I def planned to mock up with block and case like you did. From my research 454 is 2 in wider, 2 in longer and about 4 in taller than the 364.. Floor pan is out and I'm using bucket seats so fabbing trans tunnel will be no issue. I plan on aftermarket steering column with knuckles. I have no problem using electric fans. So when you look at yours about how much clearance do you have between exhaust and frame?
In mockup, the exhaust manifolds I am using clear the steering box/column by 2" or so and are above the frame on the driver's side. The starter and exhaust pipe are the biggie and only miss by 3/4". Keep in mind the 401 starter is on the driver's side. Forget headers unless you fab a custom set that exit the fender well. On the p***enger side, the oil filter misses the frame by 1-1/2" and the exhaust pipe about 1". I am not using power steering. Have not decided on A/C. The engine mount crossmember is Ch***is Engineering (now Heidt's) with a 4" drop. Rolled my own transmission mount. The engine is centered and the transmission tail shaft (the short one) ends just inside the x. My biggest hurdle is the driveshaft. As I am going the C10 truck arm route, so the truck arm front mount only leaves 3-1/2" for the driveshaft. I had to shorten the arms 3" to get that. The engine with the mounted exhaust manifolds-
Other than a nail.. a Ford 300 six would be a great upgrade. A friend put one a 52 Hudson and used a C6 trans. Fun, fast, and very reliable.