Started to take apart the steering box after doing some research because it never turned smoothly at all.... and let’s just say it’s not looking good. This is a detour I was not wanting. Shot bushing, slightly bent horn rod, and a whole lot of mess Here’s the shot bushing Horn rod
I can't tell from the pic of the horn rod but and that is a big but...you may be able to interchange with a car horn rod or even an 'A' horn rod. The crank pully has a ratchet nut on it (why they still have it on there I don't know) and you can back it off and the pully comes off with a woodruff key if I remember right. Mike
Been inactive the last few days due to a lot of body work being done on the Cab and it not being a very interesting report. Things I got done today -started the alternator fan mock up -Body work on the cab (almost done) -looked into the floorboard pieces and made a new one Dad helped me a bunch with the wooden floorboard as I’m not too experienced with it and he loves wood pieces. Still have a good amount of work on it but it’s cut out and fits which is a good improvement
Cowl vent was filled with a liquid rubber that should solidify over night. I tilted the cab to have the cowl level. That way when I drop the cab back down the rubber will be at a slant therefore allowing water to flow to the front instead of sitting in the cowl. Still have to add a new drainage tube
Finished up the weld work on the passenger step up. It’s been a while since I could get back to it but I’d say it turned out well. Still a lot needs done, but the solid foundation is there now
Got some small stuff done today. -Finished some small body work things on the Cab -painted the inner fender walls to match the firewall -removed the old front motor mounts A bunch of parts I ordered came in as well so that will be a journey of new tasks such as installing the pin in the clutch fork
Nice job. You're really working on your skills. MIG welding isn't a job for a breezy day outside though! With regards to the small stuff, go grab a jug of Evapo-Rust, they got it at places like Auto Zone. It's ascorbic acid solution and works very well to get into the pits your grinder can't on things like the washer plates and other non critical steel items. Drop the metal in, leave it a few hours, lift it out, give it a quick scrub and rinse and dry and then prime and paint. I've found that is a modest alternative to sand blasting if you can't get, afford one or just don't want the mess involved. Keep at it, keep learning. There's a lot of people here willing to help with good advice and experience, too. Phil
Anyone know the best way to peen this pin over? It’s not as soft of a metal as the pin that originally came out so we couldn’t just hit it and it fold. My dad and I thought heating it then trying to peen it was the best option. Would love to hear ideas.
Painted some of the wood pieces with some spar urethane, really brings out the dark tone in the floorboard
Did some metal work then painted it to protect it from further rust damage Only had to patch up two spots. Here’s the other spot. Came out really well Here’s painted with some POR-15 I’ll probably do some mild Bondo work to mate that weld seam a little better before I put primer on it
Here’s another piece I got done. This is the transmission cover. This picture helps to show the great penetration of the welds ensuring a good connection of the two metal sides Here’s another area This last area was almost like the first but hard to replace or make up a piece for it so I tried just filling with weld and see if I would just end up blowing holes but it actually went well Did a II last clean then a sand blast and here it is painted with POR-15
Also wanted to show this. Crazy to see it all start to come together even just a little bit After all the body work that’s happening the cab needs washed inside [emoji23] so much dust makes the black shine disappear
Next major project will be the weld work on the driver’s side fender. First thing was to remove all this black stuff under the fender which I assume was maybe tar to help protect against rust which worked.... where it was still there. If it hadn’t peeled I bet it would have been a real blessing. This truck is 84 years old though so it’s inevitable. Here’s the process as it unfolded Haven’t started the welding or even where to start but here’s some interesting previous weld “repairs” as well as the rust damage I’m guessing these bolts where to add some sort of stability after damage had happened This I’m guessing was just a hole filled with weld and you can see the plate behind that helped that process ...and here’s all the damage Not nearly as bad as the previous fender though which is satisfactory
Worked on the pedals today. I debated rebuilding them but it’s really not that big of a deal so i decided not to. They have a little play so I’m assuming the brass bushings are worn a little. I’ve done a little bit of this process already but here’s how it all went. Took the old pedals off to properly shine and sand the metal to get that chrome look. If anyone sees this and is interested in some metal petal inserts to mold your own rubber and potentially use them for your project let me know and I can “pay it forward”. I know people are trying to save money and these aren’t cheap. Also anything on this build that I’ve replaced you can always inquire! Looking good! I know it’s not right now best of a job lower down but it doesn’t show so it wasn’t as important to me. It got two coats of clear coat. Tape comes off!
Did something today I’ve been waiting to do for a long time which is put the transmission in for the last and final time. I needed a pin put in and the order came in so here’s how that went Also in this picture the fork was backwards and sadly I had to take it all apart after having it together to flip the fork back around. So for anyone seeing this in the future, make sure it’s the right direction! It will save you a BUNCH of time and energy. New bolts for the transmission to engine, pretty much everything got new bolts It’s very dusty so it almost looks back but it just needs washed, which will happen as soon as this thing is rolling again
Looking to put the drive chain together tomorrow but don’t have two bolts. We tried to buy new but nothing was right so I’ll just make them. One I stripped out of thread size confusion and one I straight up lost sadly. Here’s one style I lost that’s not cheap or found easy It’s like a half circle type head on it
Got the drive chain assembly sealed up with new gaskets everywhere and it’s done!!! So glad this happened!!! Had to make a bolt so I could finish this process of assembling
Also got a friend to come over and help me put the cab on, Isn’t this crazy?!?!??? It’s fully bolted down and ready for whatever happens next. Haven’t really thought of where I’m gonna go from here but it’s either the fenders and fender inside walls will get a lot of work to go on Or I’ll work on some of the interior pieces to get them put in. I need to drill and tap holes for attachment as well as a little bondo work to areas I had welded. We’ll see. I have all my months planned out in notes so I’ll probably just do the next thing on the list
starting to look like a truck again! great job.when trying to fill pin holes and thin spots a piece of copper or brass as a backup will help to cool it faster so less burns thru, and it leaves a sorta smooth surface on the back thats easier to finish grind than a bunch of weld bumps. sometimes old electrical switch boxes or dead welders will have a nice chunk of copper. keep up the good work!
I actually never thought about a plate helping create that smooth look but makes total sense. I don’t have much left to weld but if I can use this technique I will and post it on here to show. Thanks!
6V to 12V questions. I have plans to convert this V8 Flathead Ford to a 12V system and already have a 12V generator. What else is needed? I know bulbs will need to be 12V but what about a 12V coil, is that needed? What all do I need to do this conversation?
Chris your gauges are 6 volt so you will most likely need to step the voltage down here and you will need a 12v voltage regulator to go along with the generator. Lots of threads on here about stepping the voltage down so search that out
if you use the bosch blue coil, then no ballast resistor is needed for the ignition system. then just 12 volt bulbs and you're done
Thanks everyone. Looking into all the stuff and I’ll show you all before I buy to make sure it’s all right
The Jalopy Journal
