Projects 1937 Ford Pickup Build | Project FUBAR

woodbutcher · Sep 19, 2017

Hi JLB3.Just read about them.Don`t know the brand,and surely did not know how spendy they were.Guess that you could google the term,and get some more info on make,price and sources.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

Jackjenks · Nov 15, 2021

JLB3 said: ↑

Not too much progress this weekend, but it is starting to look like a hot rod chassis. The weather was excellent in Charlotte this weekend, so I spent Sunday morning at Crowders Mountain - not good for chassis progress.

Frame Weld Nuts
I needed to locate a ground for the alternator and run some electrical lines on the top side of the frame, so I needed some tapped holes for cable clamps etc.. To keep things flush with the frame, I used a hole saw and cut a hole so the base of a protrusion weld nut would fit.

Next I welded around the edge and ground it smooth. Below if the finished product.

Frame Front Boxing Plates
I fit the last boxing plate between the front of the cross member and the motor mount plate. I also matched the cut-out for the cab mounting holes. I wasn't too happy with cutting where the crossmember joins into the frame, but it should work just fine.

Front Left

Front Right

Frame Crossmember Cut-Outs
Its amazing how much a few holes can spruce up the look of frame. If there is one thing Ive learned on this build, its the value of a Plasma cutter. Dream it up and cut er out. Or hack out the old crap.

Frame Status
Whats left to do
-Rear boxing plates that arch over the rear axle
-Floor mount brake pedal assembly
-Support pieces that run perpendicular to crossmember
-Plumb brakes, fuel lines, transmission cooler

Click to expand...

Jackjenks · Nov 15, 2021

Just found this build on the web. I am starting a 36 fordor sedan. Plan on a transverse spring in the front. Curious how you located the brackets for the ends of the split wishbone. Looks like you kept the length and just cut off enough to put the tie rod ends in. How far are the brackets located below the transmission mount and how wide is the opening for the aod at the top. I am going to use a 5.0 and aod. Thanks. Jack

Jack Jenkins · Nov 24, 2021

Hello,

What gauge of metal did you use for you boxing plates (1/8 or 3/16)? How about replacing metal on the fenders (18 gauge)?

Jackjenks · Jan 15, 2023

What steering column are you using. I am finding out a bornsten steering box is to big so I am looking at trading the 36 steering box for a 40 which they say us better

Spooky · Jan 15, 2023

JLB3 said: ↑

First update in 3 months…. I’ve been slack with updates and progress has been at an all-time low. Over the past few months the focus has been on the first test drive! I’ve finished the parking brake assembly, rear end install, bled brakes, and routed new spark plug wires.

Parking brake cables…
I bought the lokar universal kit. I’m sure there are tons of other cheaper options, but it looked clean and simple so I jumped on it.

I made a slick bracket where the cables pass thru the bottom of the cab. It took far too long to make, but looks good in the end. If I had to do it again, I’d weld something into the bottom of the cab…heck with a fancy bracket.

Bracket used to hold the cable ends, this is on the inside of the cab.

All parking brake cable brackets before paint

Completed assembly - bottom view of parking brake handle

Final painted assembly - fits between the seats.

Rear End…
The rear end story is finally over. I installed a Yukon posi unit so I can avoid peg leg burnouts. Expensive, but I couldn’t resist!!!

Final rear-end install.

Brakes…
With the parking brake complete, it was time to bleed the brakes. I ran into an issue with a pair of Allstar stainless flex lines as you can see in the picture below. The flare nut on the 90 degree fitting broke after very little torque. Summit refunded these, so I was thankful for that!

Replacement wildwood flex lines, I decided to ditch the 90 degree fittings for straight.

Spark Plug Wires…
I did a trial run setting the distributor so I could go ahead and final route my spark plug wires. Extremely happy with how this turned out. The Squeegs plug wire kit is a perfect fit for the truck. Plug wires are from The Brillman Company w/ a radio suppressed spiral wound core.

Crimped Ends

Passenger Side

Drivers Side

Old plug wires…new wires make a BIG difference

Battery Box…
I was going to make a fancy box and mount it on the chassis, but decided to go a simpler route. I bought ammo cans to hide the battery in the bed of the truck. This will make jump-starts and replacing the battery much easier. It takes up bed space, but looks sharp!

Test fit picture while trying to decide between the Fat 50 SAW box and a 30mm box. I ended up choosing the larger 30mm box. The smaller box looked…well…like a battery box. Where the larger box fit better visually, more of a centerpiece in the bed of the truck.

Ammo Box Outside

Ammo Box Inside w/ drilled holes, grommets, and battery clamp

Overall bed view - bed is final installed!

Current truck status!
Next big ticket item is exhaust! I need to find a good muffler shop in Charlotte!

I found a cherry and picked her up? hahaha

Click to expand...

Wicked cool!!! And Ford powered too!! Ah, you 2 crazy kids!!!!

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Projects 1937 Ford Pickup Build | Project FUBAR

woodbutcher
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from LaFollette Tn

Jackjenks

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Jack Jenkins

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Spooky
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from Vancouver, Wa

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Projects 1937 Ford Pickup Build | Project FUBAR

woodbutcher Member from LaFollette Tn

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