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1937 Plymouth Sedan Delivery Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Salt Flats Speed Shop, Sep 30, 2011.

  1. mink
    Joined: Oct 4, 2007
    Posts: 1,331

    mink
    Member
    from CT

    Finished product looks amazing. How long did it take to do this section of the panel? How many hours straighting with a hammer and dolly vs. hours with the shrinking disc? I got a door skin to straight with similar texture.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2012
  2. d-luxdave
    Joined: Oct 22, 2011
    Posts: 40

    d-luxdave
    Member
    from nevada

    I will follow this project, its going to be a nice one.
     
  3. Cuda340
    Joined: Oct 7, 2011
    Posts: 58

    Cuda340
    Member

    Looks like he is using a planishing hammer and finishing with an english wheel. Pretty sure that's not hammer/dolly finish work. I'd like to know.
     
  4. Django
    Joined: Nov 15, 2002
    Posts: 10,198

    Django
    Member
    from Chicago

    That fender is a work of art.
     
  5. B Lawrence
    Joined: Nov 18, 2009
    Posts: 232

    B Lawrence
    Member
    from Ham.

    awsume.....work!
     
  6. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,006

    koolkemp
    Member

    Wow thats beautiful! Id like to know about your technique as well !
     
  7. Awesome work. Great looking vehicle. Oughta be a rare one.
     
  8. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    On the front of that fender I have about 10 hours total.
    When I first start on an area that has big dents I try and get them pounded out from the inside with a rubber hammer. That way I don't stretch the area any more than it already is. Then I use a combination of a bunch of different things depending on how much access i have to the back side of the damaged area. I just used the hammer and dolly initially to work out the major dents. I have a rubber dolly that I use cause it doesn't stretch the metal. So I hammer from both the back side (on the low spots) and the front side (on the high spots). Then when the panel is pretty well roughed in I start with the shrinking disc and the bullseye pick. I finish up all the dents using them.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2012
  9. kruzr
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 107

    kruzr
    Member

    Yessiree, shes gonna be a beaut, you have nice shop and lotsa tools.
    Nice work. Do you have a date set on the finished product?
     
  10. loudpedal
    Joined: Mar 23, 2004
    Posts: 2,209

    loudpedal
    Member
    from SLC Utah

    I'd like to see a picture of that rubber dolly. Is the rubber on it like a sanding block??
     
  11. ZZ-IRON
    Joined: Feb 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,964

    ZZ-IRON
    Member
    from Minnesota

    smooooth, that is nice work
     
  12. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 21,638

    alchemy
    Member

    Hee, hee.
     
    kiwijeff likes this.
  13. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    Its pretty dense rubber, I believe its made by martin but im not sure. It doesn't have any marking on it.



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  14. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,628

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    You are my hero Chris. Your work is breathtaking and it makes me want to dive and an learn more about how metal moves.

    That rubber dolly is rad. Is it like the material of a hocky puck? I have a few of those in the garage I could shape to do a few things.
     
  15. B Lawrence
    Joined: Nov 18, 2009
    Posts: 232

    B Lawrence
    Member
    from Ham.

    Is that rubber dolly dence like a hockey puck or more like an indian rubber ball? Sorry Lacrose ball?
    Brian
     
  16. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    There really isn't any give to it, but it isn't so hard that it feels like plastic.

    Eastwood caries it:
    http://www.eastwood.com/heel-dolly-rubber-coated.html
     
  17. Cuda340
    Joined: Oct 7, 2011
    Posts: 58

    Cuda340
    Member

    Okay, I'm officially impressed. I didn't think their was any body left alive that could work metal that good. You are definitely a master craftsman!!
     
  18. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,628

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Probably hard enough to hammer out some lumps in the metal with out creating low spots and soft enough to absorb some of the blow so it doesn't shock the hand?

    I'm going to try and make some homemade ones this weekend with hockey pucks so work on a cowl I've been plugging away at. Once I get some money I'll probably end up buying one like that as well as some new hammers.

    Recommendation on hammers? I wanted to find some used vintage ones but I can't find any at the swaps.
     
  19. rockable
    Joined: Dec 21, 2009
    Posts: 4,752

    rockable
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I like the stand that you made to hold the fender. That is a great tool! It's a pain in the ass to try to wrestle one all over a table while trying to pound the dents out. :)
     
  20. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah


    I like the feel of the martin wood handled hammers. I actually sand down the width of the handle up top to feel better in my hand. I have their low crown hammer, and their round face hammer.
     
  21. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    I'm going to start working on the suspension. So I got the body removed and now I'm getting ready to lock the frame into the frame rack.



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  22. B Lawrence
    Joined: Nov 18, 2009
    Posts: 232

    B Lawrence
    Member
    from Ham.

    Nice kick in the front and rear of that stock frame. Hopefully it will be low-low. Currently working on a 35 ford sed.del. Can"t wait till you get to the rear door.I wish I had 1/4 your talent and patience...Lookin real good...
     
  23. nowhereman
    Joined: Oct 16, 2011
    Posts: 111

    nowhereman
    Member
    from illinois

    enjoying all of this keep it coming
     
  24. tattedfordguy
    Joined: Sep 13, 2006
    Posts: 1,361

    tattedfordguy
    Member

    Cool build, Subcribed
     
  25. 48fordnut
    Joined: Nov 4, 2005
    Posts: 4,215

    48fordnut
    Member Emeritus

    SFS you really are a metal smith. amazing work. Do you have the inst cluster? I need one for a dash in an a roadster. thanks, jim
     
  26. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    We still have the original cluster. But were trying to figure out what were doing with it. Ill let you know if we go another direction.
     
  27. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    I got the frame locked into the frame rack at ride height. Now i'm squaring up the front and rear section to get ready to make patterns for the boxing plates. I got the first pattern made for the drivers side rear. Ill use that pattern to scan into the computer and make a cad drawing for my local laser guy to use.



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  28. nowhereman
    Joined: Oct 16, 2011
    Posts: 111

    nowhereman
    Member
    from illinois

    way................
     
  29. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    I got the boxing plates back from the laser cutter today, and started getting the rear ones tacked in place.


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  30. lenmann
    Joined: Dec 1, 2006
    Posts: 52

    lenmann
    Member
    from NorCal

    Great build and thanks for taking the time to post the details.

    How do you scan your paper templates/patterns to create the CAD files for laser cut?
     

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