Got some primer on the quarter and pan. I’m working my way around the car. I’ll do the other side next then cowl and roof together. I still haven’t welded in the inside trunk lid lower corner flanges. I’ll do that when I take it off to prime the inside.
damn, such a cool car to see. in US and especially in Europe they didn't excist, your sloper is coming to be a real fine and unique custom. pleasure to see it grow!
It would be interesting to know why you guys ended up with body styles like this sloper and the Utes? I may have read it at one time and forgot?
Utes I can understand, but the sloper (or coupe sedan as Ford called it) I don't. We made fordors, but not coupes or tudors in 39 and 40. Why they didn't just go with the US tudor style is a mystery to me too. It not that different, so why reinvent the wheel? I'm glad they did though.
Sloopers were made for business men,, you can go through a door in the truck and access a bed to sleep on out in the outback, if you feel brave,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Well actually, the rear seat back folds forward, making a flat surface from the trunk to the back of the front seat. There were no braces in the way and the spare was not stored vertically in the way either.
X38 I have just found your thread and read it from the start to current this morning. Very, very inspiring. I saw in one of your pictures a sheet of steel on the bench with 1.15 on the sticker, and and assuming that this is what you are making your replacement pieces from. Is this correct?, and if so is it just plain cold rolled sheet or does it have some type of coating on it? Thanks Michael
It's zinc anneal. A lot of people use it. I remove the coating where I weld. 1.15mm is slightly thicker than the original Ford metal on most of the body while the next size down, which is 0.9mm I think, is slightly thinner. I choose slightly thicker over slightly thinner. These days I get mine through CadMad because he buys it in bulk compared to my needs, I only need a 1/2 sheet now and then. It's a Bluescope product. The running boards and firewall are thicker so used 1.4 EDIT: Thicknesses you'd consider are 0.95, 1.15 and 1.55
That would have made it a lot easier to haul jars of moonshine and large bags of sugar. Braces are already cut out and everything. Maybe that is why we didn't get them in the U.S....
A bit more information from the Bluescope Steel website: ZINCANNEAL® steel BlueScope’s ZINCANNEAL® steel products are designed for both commercial forming and deep drawing applications, with a matte galvanised surface which enhances post painted appearance. ZINCANNEAL® steel products provide excellent bending, rollforming, welding and painting to meet your fabrication performance requirements. These products have a matte grey zinc/iron alloy-coating. The surface is spangle free and therefore suitable for post painting The range consists of ZINCANNEAL® G2S, ZINCANNEAL® G3NS and ZINCANNEAL® G3NS-E steels, all adhering to the Australian Standards. The ZINCANNEAL® G2S steel are typically used for electrical cabinets, non-exposure automotive panels, washing machines, acoustic ceiling tiles, door frames and switchboards. ZINCANNEAL® G3NS and ZINCANNEAL® G3NS-E are designed specifically deep drawing applications .The product range consists of ZINCANNEAL® G2S steels Thickness range between 0.5mm and 2mm ZF100 is the normal coating class while 45F45, 60F60 and ZF80 are optional ZINCANNEAL® G3NS and G3NS-E steels Thickness range between 0.6mm and 1.6mm 45F45 is the normal coating class while 60F60, ZF80 and ZF100 are optional For all the details relating to the products please see the relevant datasheet below.
Thanks for the additional information. I will have to do a bit of research and find where the closest stockist is. I bought a couple of sheets of 0.95mm cold rolled the other week, and wanted to get a couple of sheets of both 1.2mm & 1.5mm also, but the steel supplier I buy from was out of stock, and told me that they can only source the 2 thinner sheets.
Zincanneal is probably the most common sheet steel used in the industry, any sheet metal fab shop should be able to supply you with whatever thickness and amount you need, even guillo it to size for you. It's soft enough to easily shape, welds well, doesn't rust and suits painting. COVID is making the availability of most things more difficult though.
Not a lot to report, but I have been doing various fiddly things. I did get the other quarter primed. I cut out the hole for the light - and realised I should have done the other side before priming it Oh well. I did mock up the tail light with one of the buckets I made and it worked pretty good. Trunk lid will come off next and I'll finish inside that.
Tail lights. I made these buckets for the tail/brake lights some time ago and thought now was as good a time as any to fit them and do a test. I wanted maximum brightness as we all do, so to this end I made the buckets opening to expose as much light to the lens as possible. A lot more than the stock Stude application. I made appropriate sized cutouts in the fenders, but the rubber gaskets needed the aperture enlarging to suit. That done, I installed everything an hooked up a battery. Bear in mind, pictures of lights never seem to come out real well, at least not for me. So, this is the tail light: Brake:
Paint the inside of those buckets GLOSS WHITE to make them the brightest. Digger Dave did a test here years ago and white won out over ever other treatment including silver paint.
they look great. Will you put a water proof cover of some sort over the back of the bulb holder? I midified my 40 headlights so the side light is now an indicator, but the bulb holder is very susceptible to water, I need to work out a way to protect it.
I haven't got that far yet I just took this holder out of a drawer to test the lights. I agree with you though, even if wet weather isn't a major factor. I will also have a splash/inner fender mudguard to prevent rock damage so that will keep a lot of water away as well.
The Jalopy Journal
