Purchasing a 1939 and would like to do the following Swap in a 250 with a 5 spd with set of headers Whats needed to swap in the 250 into this car I know the S10 transmission and adapter for the 250/292 bellehousing The rear end will have to be swapped out correct? would a 1957 belair rear end work ? thanks
Hi. Sounds like a good swap. I have not done a swap with a 250 but the engine is slightly longer than your original so different front motor mounts will be needed. Most likely a short shaft water pump so fan will clear radiator or you will have to move radiator forward? If you want to retain the foot operated starter all you have to do is use original flywheel as your 6 Volt starter will work fine with either 6 or 12 Volts. Flywheel ring gear has to match starter gear. I put a 235 in y 46 Chevy Coupe to replace the old 216 and it was a bolt in fit. Use 216 flywheel with new clutch, kept 3 on the tree & original rear end and changed the ring & pinion from original 411 to a 355 for great Hwy gears and changed 600/16 on the rear to 700/16. It now purrs down the Hwy at 65 or so without the engine screaming RPM's & all is well. I was not interested in a race car & just wanted a Hwy cruiser and it is great for that. my 235 is bored 0.060, 268 grind cam, headers & dual 2 barrel Weber Carbs, HEI and 12 volts. Good luck and keep us posted. Others will have more info for you on the 250/292 stuff. Jimmie
I put a 250 (mercruiser), a th350 and a 57 rear end into my 48 fleetline. Used modified 70ish Chevy pickup motor mounts, from a 6. You won't use the front mount,the 250 has side mounts. P***enger side is super easy, I made a plate the mounted to the block and drilled new holes in it to move the driver's side mount farther forward. Didn't have to move or replace the radiator. Real easy. There is only one water pump I am aware of, the 235 is a completely different animal, and there can be water pump issues with them, but not the 250. I am pretty sure you will not be able to use the 216 or 235 flywheel. Small block will work, I am 99% sure. I used a flex plate for the th350, and it was for a sbc. You can keep the stomp starter, but you will have to figure out how to make it work. I kept it on mine, used a lighter duty switch, but it still worked. The rear end was about 3/4 of an inch too far forward, there a lowering blocks with a re-located pin, or you can figure it out yourself without the blocks. Chevys of the 40s has them.The duals will take some work if you leave the master cylinder under the floor, but nothing a good pipe bender can't solve. I did the entire swap in my driveway, no welding needed, although I did have the motor mounts welded in after I bolted them in. It was all done with hand tools, and I'm no world cl*** fabricator. I know the 39 is different in some ways than the 48, but the principles should be the same. Double check rear end width, 57 is the best of the tri-five rear ends. I had a 4bbl, headers and duals on the car and I loved it. Hope this helps, best of luck.
I had a 39 sedan and can't help on the six cylinder (I used a 350/350), but I had a 10 bolt from a late 60's Nova or Camaro. It fit great, and I made my own spring mounts form 2x4 box tubing, drilling the locating hole offset to fix that problem. I also made them about two inches taller than normal, so they were built in lowering blocks. I copied the design of the Ch***is Engineering bolt in shock cross member for the rear axle. I used the original rear springs with new shackles and bushings, and made my own plates for the U bolts.
My '37 Chevrolet truck has a 250/350 auto with '79 Trans Am 10 bolt. The engine is longer then the OEM, and shorter. I recessed the firewall some and moved the radiator forward and down. Motor mounts are easy to make, can't help with manual transmission. I still have factory front axle and steering, I did remove the crossmember under the motor/trans mount.
here's a 292 in a 37 Chevy. about a 3" recess in the firewall, engine moved to the right by about 1-1/2", electric pusher fan. 200 4R trans, ch***is eng rear axle mounting kit with a 70's nova rear axle
...I've put 250's in a 38 & a 48 Chevies,...use a water pump from an early 62-4 Chevy II, didn't have to move the stock radiators, set the engine as far back as you can, even 1/4- 3/8th " from the firewall,...check your bellhousing for clearance,...should work real well, 55-7 Chevy or 68-74 Nova or clone rears work well.
Wow guys I am over whelmed by the responses. thanks for the pics Mr.Chevrolet , moving the engine right is required due to the exhaust and intake manifold ? I notice now it sits far back now in your pic compared to the 216. Really love the 6cyl look and nostalgia of it. So by the sounds of it its pretty straight forwad. 250/292 with the 62-4 chevy II water pump, Some engine mounts. Reason I ask about the 57 rear end is I have a 57 150 in my garage that im doing the C4 suspension on and was thinking why not old school the 39 with some old parts, also I think these cars in 39 had a torque tube rear end ? My plans for the 39 are to do a built 250 with a 5 speed and a medium size T4 turbo and make 400whp and keep the old school look on the 39 , Widen the stock wheels or get something made up to look stock, smoked windows and that's it and clean it. Ill post up pics of the car soon, ive read a lot on the 5 speed swap and get mixed reviews of what exactly I need lol. I guess not a lot of people swap 5 speed in the 39 ch***is.
I am pretty sure the 292 is longer than a 250. Since I used a mercruiser, it may have had a different water pump. Heat may be a problem with a turbo, and yes, the 39 is an enclosed driveshaft. Just stick the right kind in and go.
...ok, here's the absolute best inspiration for your car, this car was from the St Louis area,... I think it's runnin a different intake set up now,...this is a 292 worked over...
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