nate.. that sweet peice of 77 is for sale, not on here though as that would be against the rules of course...ha ha. i got a guy local buying it minus the performance parts for 300, although another guy offered 500, i told him to bring money by the end of the week and it was his but id say the other first guy will get it for 300, just want to get it gone and buy my spindles\brakes for the front of the truck
If you're going to have it re-welded, then you might want to only tack stuff in place, rather than stitch it all the way around with low penetration welds. I have a welder friend do the critical stuff on my ride, and he tells me to only tack it (maybe a little more than a tack for the engine, of course...), as he can control his puddle better with a clear joint. If you haven't asked this hectorex guy about that yet, you might want to.
I didn't have to ask him, he was there. I messed up one weld. I'm going to go back and fix it. The arc welding is going to be the gusset and the plate on the inside of the frame. Once again though, I do appreciate the concern.
hell yeah anti you got the right idea bro get you someone who knows what they are doing to coach ya thro and jump right in with both feet and learn a thing or two i wish some of the guys that ask me to help with their builds where so ambitious ----- usually i end up doing most of the work and all they do is provide the beer
Gotti, ive done a little of a lot, just never all at once.... make any sense? Ive swapped motors, built motors, swapped trans, rears, did mild suspension work, ive helped build air ride systems, custom bodywork, wild engine swapps, so now its time to jump right in like you said, never learn enough just watching do we?
heres the carnage of the transmission "malfunction" when it was in the nova, just using it for mock up now.
Finally got the QC to the house, 7 sets of gears, an i dont think any are higher than 5.30, found one labeled 6.21... hmmm wheelstands anyone? ha ha got to reposition the mounts a little bit, going to have the link bars on the inside of the frame, gotta cut the tack welds, slide them in and even them out (was in a circle track car, offset mount at the moment), cant wait to start that rear frame, talk about fun......
Anyone know where i can get different colored caps for the end of that QC? I'm not too big on the gold.....
I forgot it was you who did the cool powdercoating Tech thread. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=170646
Richard....carefully applied huh? i assume carefully so not to get on everything else and strip it too...? maybe?
Got a question for those viewing this. Look back at the photo edit pic of the truck (what id like it to look like when done). Any suggestions on rear suspension setup with that quick change rear? I've been thinking of using two "tractor arms with heim joints for the bottom link bars have them attach to the inside of the frame rails. and using the bar on top of the rear run two "tractor arms" from that centered bar angled outward to a mount on the frame to triangulate the rear.... been thinking of air bag rear suspension..... Anyone else got an idea?
Here's how I did mine. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=156812&highlight='34+plymouth+rpu+update
i made my cross member much the same as yours for my 45 gmc when i put my 250 in it, now i wish i would have made it so the part running under the oil pan could be unbolted to remove the pan without removing the whole engine.
budd, shouldnt be too hard to fix that. cut the center out of the bottom. drill two holes through it on each end, and 2 holes on the part still on the frame. slide a pipe through the holes and weld it in place. then bolt it back together when done. Thats what i'll probably do if and when i need to drop the pan....
Finally got a start on the rear crossmember, not a great pic, but its a start, going to brace it a little bit more tomorrow and then im finally going to try to set the cab on the frame, if i can get some help from a couple friends.....
Well, i got the transmission crossmember done today, i made it out of a bar of 1 1\2 square tube, its 1\4 wall so its rather stout, made some braces out of 1x1 box tube as well. I will be adding on to it later for a battery tray and driveshaft tunnel\loop, but the crossmember itself is done.
I had a couple friends come over and help me get the cab on the frame for a test fit and to see what all needs changed, so far ive done well. It fit, where i wanted it. the floor shouldnt be too hard to make. Ive got to fix the rusty rear frame and bring the frame up a few inches behind the cab im thinking something like 10 inches up in the rear, here is some pics and a video (dark in the cab) p.s. havent finished the body work obviously, been working on the frame ever since i got it. <embed width="430" height="389" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://vid71.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid71.photobucket.com/albums/i130/antihuman81/rat%20truck/101_1176.flv"></embed>
Looks like its coming along pretty good. I'm kinda having second thoughts about using the F-100 frame under mine though, might look a little gaudy...but..ah...worth trying.
frosty, if the f1 frame doesnt work out look around for a toyota frame. It is a GREAT fit, look at the pics under and inside the cab to see how it fits.
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