Need help just can't get brakes to work have had the drums checked for round have sanded the linings so they are even in the drum .tried to set up as described by a gentleman on this site .first problem when I set the 2bottom eccentrics with the dots facing each other the brakes are absolutely solid cannot move the drum when moved too 12oclck when moved to 12 position they release and then try to adjust as per write up just to slightly dragging cannot get them to lock up pedal is quite soft and just can't get any positive stopping any ideas would be great as the car and myself are ready to go but no brakes .all new brakelines hoses master cylinder and brake cylinders
Are you using a 40 Ford master and pedal? If not, are the master ID and the pedal ratio the same as a 40? Last spring I bought a set of new 40 Ford shoes from Carpenter and found the lower holes were not the proper position in relation to the arc of the shoe. It required sanding/grinding extra lining material from the bottom of the shoe to even get the drum on. That's not right. (I told Carpenters, but to idea if they did anything about it. They didn't ever offer to send some better replacements.) If you are having problems getting the shoes adjusted, check this out on repro shoes.
If you have road tested it a fair amount, now pull off both drums to look at the contact patterns on each shoe. If the anchor (lower) adjustments are wrong, you won't get full contact showing on the shoes. Start there first to eliminate chasing your tail. Also, if the contact looks pretty good, do the contact areas look very glazed, which could be a very hard lining that wears longer but gives less gripping power. The replacement wheel cylinders should be the later 40s "larger bore" which is better than the stock 1940 size. I forget the sizes but the other guys here should know.
That’s *** backwards if we are talking about dual servo brakes, the primary or front shoe is the short one, I do not believe the brakes in question have a primary or secondary shoe, however I am making the ***umption that they are anchored at the bottom I have no first hand experience with the vehicle in question. Someone will be along to confirm or correct me. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Thank you, I stand corrected! Now I need to do some reading on them. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Here's how to adjust 40 Ford brakes. They are Lockheed style brakes, not bendix. Long shoe faces forward.
The poorly made shoes that Rich and I have are made for and sold for 40 Ford brakes. I didn't measure, but I'd bet they are almost a tenth off.
The reason I asked was that one of my Hobby members has a Model A with 40 brakes.. I installed a set of woven brake shoes and ran into two issues. One was what the OP posted and the other was the metal part of the shoe where the hole is was too thick and when I tightened the lock nut it clamped the bottom of the shoe tight and brakes would not release.
Tom, it is supposed to be a '39-'41 juice brake shoe; but one of the poor quality batch of repop shoes that has the hole located in the wrong location. You can't get the shoes properly centered due to this.
Thanks, I fixed the locking up problem be milling the ends. I think the adjustment position problem was the shoe linings were a little oversize. I had added a 57 Thunderbird power booster and after I adjusted everything it stopped fine.
Uno, do you have the brakes in front of you? Have you looked at them? The heads of the adjusting pivots are on the outside of the backing plate. The diagram in the instructions above are just drawn like that to help the explanation. It even says "X-ray view from backing plate side".
I'm resurrecting this older thread. Two of my shoes were oil soaked at one time and I want to replace them. Early ford Store seemed to have the correct ones, unfortunately they are presently out of stock. Is there another source?
You could get your old shoes re lined. Also to center the shoes some Ford drums have a slot in them that you can fit a feeler gauge into, to see what the clearance between the shoe and drum is all the way around by turning the drum.
These dudes have a full kit and individual pieces. 1939-1942 Ford Brake Overhaul Kit (01A-2001-KIT) brake shoes, wheel cyl, hoses, | eBay -Abone.
These things can be hard to bleed and get all the air out of the lines and cylinders. Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing it? Some power brakes should be bled with no vacuum, in other words, engine off and reserve tank at atmospheric pressure. Check the rod to the MC for free play. It should have about an > eighth of an inch before it touches the piston in the cylinder. Too tight will cover the relief port in the cylinder. Start with the MC and work your way back, one thing at a time. After adjusting the bottom of the shoes, don't forget to tighten the lock nuts. Just thoughts from the old grump........
Cw Moss in Orange California has an excellent selection like the Old Ford Store in San Dimas Although if one is out of something the other store is probably out of it too They both use pretty good quality parts that come from the same suppliers near as I can tell
These things can be hard to bleed and get all the air out of the lines and cylinders. Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing it? Some power brakes should be bled with no vacuum, in other words, engine off and reserve tank at atmospheric pressure. Check the rod to the MC for free play. It should have about an > eighth of an inch before it touches the piston in the cylinder. Too tight will cover the relief port in the cylinder. Start with the MC and work your way back, one thing at a time. After adjusting the bottom of the shoes, don't forget to tighten the lock nuts. Just thoughts from the old grump........ Good advice but it will not clean up the oil soaked linings.
The Jalopy Journal
