Technical 1940 Ford dropped axle/drag link question

I'm installing a 4 inch dropped axle, and dropped steering arms.

It doesn't look like there is any way that a straight drag link will
go from the top of the pitman arm, to the bottom of the steering arm, without
hitting the bottom of the right wish bone.

Is it normal to bend the drag link to clear the wishbone?

Or should the pitman arm be bent?

Thanks,
Rich

 

You could do both.

On my 46, with the drag link on top of the spindle arm, after I put a dropped axle in the drag link would hit the wishbone in a turn. I re-tapered the bottom of the steering arm hole on spindle (with tapered reamer), then made a new drag link with an adjustable end. Now it goes up through the bottom of the spindle and everything clears.

 

I'm showing a photo of my '40 with a 4" Magnum & Chassis Eng dropped arms.
the arms are dropped a bit much, but I didn't fuss with them.
I also bent my pitman arm upwards an inch plus.
Most '40 drag links are bent near the wishbone to make them more parallel to the ground.
My drag link has been shortened about 5/8" because of the narrower axle, but the bends are stock.

 

So, you both attached the drag link to the bottom of the pitman arm.

I'm thinking you can't flip the pitman arm, right, tapered?

I called Chassis Engineering, they said it should be fine once
all of the weight is added (engine, body, etc.)

Hmmm, Dunno 'bout that.

Rich

 

I have all those same Chassis Engineering parts in my car. The clearance with the wishbone looked too tight until the engine went in. After that, it was fine and car has been on the road now 10 years.

 

But you can taper the hole halfway from the other side (7 degrees), install the rod end from the new direction, and it will work just fine.

 

Chassis Eng arms are tapered from the bottom.
If you are using the stock '41 arms, dropped, you will have to re- taper the drag-link socket from the bottom half way up.
Very common & not a problem. Many of the after market pitman arms are tapered this way.
The drag link can be bent to suit.

Iron Workers Credo:
Cut To Suit, Beat To Fit, Paint To Match.

 

Beings a 40 drag link has bends in it, and the spindle side tie rod end is one piece on the drag link (non adjustable), you cannot simply flip it over. It would probably have to be a touch shorter too, depending on the axle. That is why I made a new one, threaded on both ends so that I could adjust length and insert from the bottom.

 

I had forgotten that you are dealing with a '41 link with the forged offset end.
Buy a '35-'40 drag link or cut up a tie rod to make the drag link you need.

 

Thanks for the info guys, I really appreciate it.

Rich

 

I'll add my 2 cents. I removed the steering arm from the box & used a rosebud torch head to heat the arm at the splined end & bent it down. I then went to the tie rod's end and with more heat I bent it up slightly. My car is equipped with a Pete & Jakes drag link which is straight.

 

I had to straighten out the pitman arm on my '39 with a drop 4" drop axle to clear the oil pan. (flathead). I do not recommend bending the drag link.