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Projects 1940 Ford p/u Back to the future build.

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by albertaboy, Sep 3, 2015.

  1. albertaboy
    Joined: Jul 19, 2013
    Posts: 131

    albertaboy
    Member

    Thank you. I understand your reason. It must be a pleasure to drive.
     
  2. albertaboy
    Joined: Jul 19, 2013
    Posts: 131

    albertaboy
    Member

    Good idea. Thanks.
     
  3. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,481

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

  4. albertaboy
    Joined: Jul 19, 2013
    Posts: 131

    albertaboy
    Member

    Good build thread. I'll definitely take ideas from that. Member JVO, iirc, suggested the 50 Chev spring idea for rear suspension . I'll keep my eye open for parts. Any other thread suggestions would be appreciated. I search but there's got to be much more out there. Cheers
     
  5. albertaboy
    Joined: Jul 19, 2013
    Posts: 131

    albertaboy
    Member

    Back to the future build?... I think that means I'm not sure if I'm going forwards or backwards. I took the fenders off my 40 to take to member John VO for some metal work instruction this coming October. I had to make a trip to British Columbia this past weekend. Just 5 minutes from my Uncles house... I spot this...
    2015-09-14 10.14.38.jpg
    A '49 Chev front end suspension just sitting there all exposed like a pedophile at a playground. A streaker at the ball game. I couldn't believe it. I had started looking for these parts locally but only found guys who didn't want to part out their trucks. How could I be so lucky to find this all ready stripped.
    I get my uncle and his grinder and head back to the business it was sitting in front of. The owner (Ernie) says the truck belongs to a customer of his. Disappointment set in initially until I explained to Ernie what I wanted. Turned out, the truck was there to receive a Mustang II. HAHA!!! what luck. I told Ernie I leave for home tomorrow and I brought my own grinder -- $100 bucks, I removed the hangers myself in 30 minutes. It was a good week. This will be my 40's rear suspension.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2015
    volvobrynk likes this.
  6. albertaboy
    Joined: Jul 19, 2013
    Posts: 131

    albertaboy
    Member

    Ok, this will be a very slow build. I'll get nothing done over winter as I'm still in discussion with my wife about a furnace install for the garage.
    I'm still taking inventory of what I've got to work with, what I need to get, and my options. Maybe this is the fun part- gathering.....
    Here's my frame. The PO, 15 years ago, said it was from a '36 sedan. My memory faded over the years but this past couple weeks, I noted it didnt have any car body mounts. This week I looked for a VIN to check against Vanpelt's site but I can not see any numbers in either of the three locations. I am now doubting a few things as I realize the frame has juice brakes and 5x5.5 rims. I thought it was a stocker but maybe hot rodded over the years. Judging by the holes, It looks like car body mounts were removed at one time. I'm not familiar enough with this era.
    2015-09-17 13.28.09.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2015
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  7. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 14,494

    Budget36
    Member

    Look at where the pedal assy mounts, if any of the holes are "wobbled" out, then it would be a '35-'38? frame, if all holes are clean, it would be '39/40 car up to '41 pickup..I think '39 is when hydraulic brakes started for Ford.

    The mounting holes (at least one if I recall) for the earlier mechanical brake pedal assy, are narrower in a spot or two...most people files, torched, etc, to move one or two holes for the later assy would bolt in

    Edit:

    I have a '35 car frame and a '36 PU frame..I took the mounts off the '35 car frame, little bit later I'll take comparison for you and see if the PU frame was predrilled/stamped for car mounts...I kinda think they were, but will confirm.
     
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  8. geoford41
    Joined: Jul 26, 2011
    Posts: 766

    geoford41
    Member
    from Delaware

    Just make sure you run the solid spring hanger mount to the FRONT of the rear end and the shackles to the rear.
     
  9. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 14,494

    Budget36
    Member

    Well, I couldn't tell a difference in holes, my '36 PU frame is in my shop, the '35 Car frame is about 70 feet away. even walking back and forth, they sure look to be the same to me.
     
  10. albertaboy
    Joined: Jul 19, 2013
    Posts: 131

    albertaboy
    Member

  11. albertaboy
    Joined: Jul 19, 2013
    Posts: 131

    albertaboy
    Member

    Budget36

    Thanks for checking. I will have a look at the frame again next week for evidence of "retro-fitting" of the master cylinder. I need to pull it off and prep the frame for sandblasting anyways. Cheers
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2015
  12. oldrelics
    Joined: Apr 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,727

    oldrelics
    Member
    from Calgary

    my '41 frame if you want to compare frames
    [​IMG]
     
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  13. albertaboy
    Joined: Jul 19, 2013
    Posts: 131

    albertaboy
    Member

    I think that frame should be in my garage.... ;) Thanks for the pic. That's a pickup frame??

    Seems like there's extra holes before the rear kick up. I just took fenders and running board off my 40 and I cant imagine what filled them.
     
  14. geoford41
    Joined: Jul 26, 2011
    Posts: 766

    geoford41
    Member
    from Delaware

    The Pickup frames do not use the rear body to frame mounts that hang off the sides of the passenger car frames, you use the tapered wooden spacers to mount the bed with long carriage bolts. I just check my digital files for my pickup pictures and unfortunally the only ones I have are "traditional" 35MM photos in my albums LOL! I can scan them & send to you via PM if you need some more reference shots
     
  15. albertaboy
    Joined: Jul 19, 2013
    Posts: 131

    albertaboy
    Member

    GeoFord41- no need for more photo's. Thank you. I imagine the car body mount holes were punched regardless of the end use (car or truck). I was just trying to figure out what my frame was from. In the end, it's the same frame between 1935 and 40 car vs truck and this one will work for my pickup.
    I am still disassembling the truck. I will restore the frame to a roller then begin cab repair. I'll order the wood cab mounts at that time and fit everything back to the frame. That's the order I see this happening so far.

    I don't anticipate any problems but I'll post questions as they come up. Thanks.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2015
  16. albertaboy
    Joined: Jul 19, 2013
    Posts: 131

    albertaboy
    Member

    This might the last update until late October or later. I continue to learn Mig welding and am taking metal work instruction this fall. Besides a lot of practice to gain new skills, there wont be much to show for a while.

    This is my first full automobile restoration and maybe a big leap from what I cut my teeth on...this old Honda
    Vern phone June 29 2015 395 small.jpg
    Same process of research, disassembly, reassembly, sourcing parts, repairing, cleaning, polishing, learning new skills...just smaller.

    I'm 50 yrs old. Grew up on a farm. I have my Dad's "I can learn that" attitude. Anyways... this is where I'm coming from. Cheers.
     
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  17. albertaboy
    Joined: Jul 19, 2013
    Posts: 131

    albertaboy
    Member

    See photo below. Evidence of "retro-fitting" is clear. I managed to get out to the farm to remove the pedal assembly. The frame is butchered somewhat. I'll likely pull a section from my 40 frame to replace this.
    2015-10-10 16.20.57.jpg
     
  18. albertaboy
    Joined: Jul 19, 2013
    Posts: 131

    albertaboy
    Member

    So not much to report. I attended a local swap meet recently but came home empty handed except a contact where I can pick up a 9in diff from a 1957 Ford. I will post pictures once I secure a deal.

    I am arranging a garage furnace installation soon. Had to agree to new appliances for the kitchen..... but I guess this is the story how this truck came to be restored.... Regardless, I wont get anything done in Alberta winter temps without one.

    I'm making a 5 hour drive to Lethbridge this Friday to a fellow Hamb member JVO who's going to teach metal working skills to me. He's got his work cut out for him. lol.
     
  19. woodbutcher
    Joined: Apr 25, 2012
    Posts: 3,309

    woodbutcher
    Member

    :D Looks like you have a solid foundation to start from.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
     
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  20. Raiman1959
    Joined: May 2, 2014
    Posts: 1,427

    Raiman1959

    Nice project! I had a 40' Ford pickup all thru' high school in Oregon and my Navy years in CA...flattie and columbia rearend was awesome... always got tons of waves and thumbs up ...very cool project!!!
     
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  21. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,230

    mgtstumpy
    Member

  22. albertaboy
    Joined: Jul 19, 2013
    Posts: 131

    albertaboy
    Member

    Inspired!! Yes. That a nice example of where I'm heading with mine. Cheers.
     
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  23. tstellhorn
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 187

    tstellhorn
    Member

    Here's mine. Mostly stock.
     

    Attached Files:

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  24. albertaboy
    Joined: Jul 19, 2013
    Posts: 131

    albertaboy
    Member

    I love black but I'm thinking my autobody skills wont be good enough. Nice truck. What's not stock?
     
  25. albertaboy
    Joined: Jul 19, 2013
    Posts: 131

    albertaboy
    Member

    2015-07-14 16.20.29.jpg 2015-10-25 19.34.52.jpg
    Spent 15 hours with member JVO learning metal shaping. Here is a before and after. Not sure why after insist on being tilted. Sorry. Thanks to John in Lethbridge. He is a great teacher and a great guy for taking me in for a day.
     
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  26. Rustygt
    Joined: May 18, 2014
    Posts: 204

    Rustygt
    Member
    from Emeryville

    Here is mine in progress
     

    Attached Files:

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  27. beater40
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 86

    beater40
    Member

    It would seem your chassis is 1938 or earlier most likely 35/6, from 1939 the front cross member was raised about 1/2 " higher where engine mounts go, your gearbox mounts look to be the earlier 35/6 type and your pedals are 1939, clutch linkage from pedal goes direct to gbox lever, which is a better system to me than 40-48 which had a tongue system on the gbox shaft that twisted, all work fine for your project though, it would seem your truck has been rechassis'd at sometime, rust or cracking the normal reason, good start for a project, cheers
     
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  28. Nice project. Have fun.
     
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  29. albertaboy
    Joined: Jul 19, 2013
    Posts: 131

    albertaboy
    Member

    Long time no update. This past year, I placed most my effort and cash into buying tools. I've continued to dismantle the truck but tried my hand at planishing rear fenders. Some crazy farmer welds (no offense intended farmers, I grew up on one) patch welds that will have to be cut out and replaced. A skill I've yet to learn. I found a T-5 and a 9 in rear diff out of a 1957 Ford wagon that I'll end up rebuilding and using. 20151202_190533.jpg 20160308_191047.jpg
    Found out my shoulder (old injury) hurt like a darn. Had a hard time with hammering.
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2016
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  30. albertaboy
    Joined: Jul 19, 2013
    Posts: 131

    albertaboy
    Member

    This past weekend, my Brothers helped pull the cab, box and engine out. Vern note 4 Sept 8 2016 1490.jpg Vern note 4 Sept 8 2016 1494.jpg

    The cab and box will rest here for hopefully only another year. The '40 frame is more rotten than I realized so the 36 frame I acquired will be moved to my home garage in the next week or two. Cheers.
     

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