^That's had the centre of the x member cut/modified though. Still, makes it obvious what the OP's frame is not!
From the archives from 2020 regarding a pic of a rear in question and a response from the late 56sedandelivery: 100% 57-64 Olds/Pont. I'm guessing a 57 housing (an inch narrower on each side than 59 on), but it then has a 59 on third member. If you pull an axle, count the splines. 57-58 would have 29 spline axles; there was a Posi available for those in 58 (Dana, not the better Eaton). 31 splines came in 59. Your third member case has the stronger, "3 rib" case. You can "mix up" the various years parts, shorten the axles to fit 57-58 housings (may have to lengthen the splines on only one axle), and swap the backing plates-brake parts-drums. Since no one has mentioned it yet, Fabcraft Metal Works is your supplier for all things 57-64 Olds/Pontiac rear ends. 9.3" ring gears. The 37-56 Olds/Pont rear ends "look" very similar, but the bolt-on trunion flange on the rear ends is the most obvious give-a-way. They also have the same basic shape housings, just smaller, and thier third members are round as opposed to the somewhat oval 57-64. Those rear ends also have 10 spline axles, no Posi's were ever available for them, although Mickey Thompson side make spools and aluminum or magnesium third member cases for them. Mickey Thompson did the same for 57-64 Olds/Pont rear ends. That's all I've got. Sold all my 57-64 Olds/Pont rear end stuff a few years ago.
Of course it has, but the general layout/structure is complete, and as stated will serve its purpose for reference.
Fill that hole in the bed. Put some nice hardwood, stainless rails, varnish to your liking. Drive it. Nice truck!
For sure, look at the inside of the rear frame rail for the P***enger side. Notice the round circles cut out of the inner rails. That's what I'm referring to and this is a grate reference photo to show it. Tanks for posting that photo 40FordPU. Now just because the Frame under this Truck may not be factory does Not mean cut it up and start over in my book. I think your headed the right direction trying to get the Tires inboard with different wheels however, I doubt you will like what you end up with "IF" you can get there. I think the Front will be the biggest issue for you. I'll re state that, I think not having a place to work on it will be your biggest issue. My personal opinion is, Don't dive into the deep end! Fix the little things and Drive it.
I'm no expert, it sure looks like a Mopar rear end to me .... some of the Chrysler's and larger cars used the 5 on 5 bolt pattern ... some of the real big honkers used the 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern. There are several cars that use that bolt pattern ..... many not period correct, but possible could be some aftermarket replacements for them. That would be correct. Cadillac used them, my 1991 ot dd cheby silverado uses them .... pontiac, olds ... & chrysler Desoto ... you should be able to find something. The 49-55 3/4 ton Dodge trucks also used the 5 on 5" bolt pattern. I know a guy that put a chebby silverado rear end in one, then used Cadillac reverse offset wheels to take care of the width problem? Good luck finding the correct offset you need to work for what you have.
I think @badshifter is right. I knew it was an Olds/Pontiac rear end (9.3), but looking at the front frame clip it also looks like a Olds/Pont front end also. I think it's a modified stock frame from a Olds/Pont 57-58 which is a 5 on 5 bolt pattern. '56 Olds: '55-'57 Pontiac:
Somebody knocked a 50s Pontiac/Olds in the head and put the entire frame and running gear under that Ford. The leaf springs say it's 57 or earlier. The 3rd member in the photo is a 56 Pontiac. First year for the modern flange.
Rocky; I'm going to agree with you for the most part. That said it has a Late Model, by 40 Ford standards Frame Graph or total swap. Now with the total I.F.S. unit does that move it into the Off Topic category along with M-2 and GM clips? Is he going to get the Boot? Maybe a p*** being it's pre 66 parts even if it was just recently done?
There's not a spot of Road dirt anywhere. The motor is Kiss fresh. The zinc plated flat washer at the steering box isn't rusty at all. Kinda tells it's own story. I'm not going to mention the Tilt steering. Overall I like the Truck.
Lots of good advice and info here. I'd endorse the idea of drive it until you have a garage. Might not be impossible to find some late model wheels you don't hate for the front. Just need some with a lot of positive offset. Probably Offer Up or FBMarketplace finds. I know my old Klincoln LS had tons of positive offset in the wheels (but a funky 5 x 108mm Jaguar bolt pattern.) All you have to do is correctly measure the bolt pattern and scour the web. Cool truck but if you end up switching back to a correct frame/ch***is it's going to be a huge project.
Huge project? Meh. Worth it on a 40 ford PU? Definitely. How was thing thing ***led? Or was it? From a value standpoint putting a ***led 40/41 pickup frame under it would be a huge win and make the tires fit under it. No offset front wheel is going to correct what you have going on there. I don't know where the OP is but this is on CL here today, ***led 1939 PU frame. $1000. Looks pretty good. Blast it and shoot some epoxy primer on it, stick it in your garage and start looking for a front end (there are a couple on our cl***ifieds right now. Build a roller from and swap bodies.
Good idea BB, but I would also be concerned about whoever did what they did to make the Ford 'fit' that later GM ch***is. Who knows what 'techniques' they used. These modified vehicles can be a trap for the unaware. Especially when advertised without full disclosure.
I'm thinking '57 or thereabouts Olds ch***is too. That would be consistent with the 5 on 5 bolt pattern, but I don't recall any GM cars having LH threads. Chrysler, Hudson, and AMC products had RH threads on one side and LH threads on the other. Trying to figure out what serial number you used to ***le/register it. The only place a '40-'41 pickup had the serial number was on the frame and on the bell of the original trans case.
This is real easy guys if you read everything this Guy has posted. There are no Factory Vin#'s on this Truck. It has an ***igned Vin being it's a bunch of pieces piled together to resemble a 40 Ford Truck. Look at the inspection tag on the Door Jamb. OP Guy also goes on to say he lives in a Rental House with no Garage space or outside level ground to work on or in. I admire him for stepping in and buying this unit based on Eye Ball alone. Personally, I believe him sticking with the KISS method and just changing wheels and tires is a big enough task for him at this time. We don't want to run him off thinking he needs to build a new truck around some Black Paint.
Make it run and build a bed floor and drive the wheels off of it. I think the frame is earlier than 57, maybe 55-56. It has the bolt on trunion.
I agree with those that said based on your living situation, Drive it! Have Fun with it! And when the time comes that your able to change the frame, do it then. Don't stress over it for now! Hopefully they will give you a green card to stay on hamb with it until that time comes. Good Luck!
Or, do like the rest of us with items on our Rides that don't comply directly with the Rules. Don't show them in photographs. With no moderators stepping in he may get a p*** due to the actual parts menu all being early stuff. I'm good with that. Hmmm, maybe there's hope for my Model A with the Corvair front legs after all.
So, with the awesome hours I’ve been working, I go in when it’s dark and come home when it’s dark. Gotta love being an A&P! And when I have some time off, it’s raining! I appreciate the help and insight… Updates: I cleaned the fuel tank, and re-installed. The truck runs on its own fuel. Great! Found a leak at one of the bowl gaskets on the carb, pulled the carb and replaced it, and replaced the accelerator pump(?!?). Now that the truck runs on its own fuel without the risk of a giant fire, I let it get warm… and oil pressure drops to 8-10 psi on a mechanical gauge on Rotella T4(all the dinosaurs and minerals and engine needs)… so yeah… I may be doing some bearings soon. Yay. Also, the steering box has been mounted to the frame with one bolt, that’s bent, so I’ll be doing some welding as well. I’ll keep everyone posted when I can. I appreciate everyone keeping the thread alive, it seems my build is within the rules, I’m trying to keep it traditional hot rod!
Hmmm, this is where 2 Guys see opposite ends of the chart. Yes, it looks like a non-factory weld, but I don't see anything that looks like a Hack job or even concerning. I wouldn't do a thing about the looks till it proved to be a problem.
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