1940 ford pickup on an s10 chassis

Has anyone ever done this? What should I be aware of/avoid? I got a nice cab with doors and have a '92 s10. Wanna make it a daily driver. Planning on a small block with 700r4, s10 rear.
Photos, warnings, advice would be greatly appriciated. Thanks, -stick

 

Contact Choprods, his son is already doing this swap.

r

 

Warning?

OK, when it comes time to sell a LOT of people will look the other way when they hear it is on an S-10 ch***is. If you can scratch up a '40 ch***is you'll be $$ ahead in the long run. Besides, the '40 ch***is shouldn't cost much more or be any harder to build than making the S-10 ch***is work. You should be able to trade the S-10 for a decent '40 ch***is. If not, sell the S-10 & buy a '40 ch***is.

Good luck whatever you do. Looks like a nice cab you have there.

JH

 

I agree with what Harrison said. The '40 Ch***is shouldn't be any more expensive and I would think an easier build than the S10. There is a complete '46 near me for $750, as an example. I think the '46 and '40 ch***is are nearly if not, exactly the same and in my opinion would make your truck much cooler and worth more. The dependability issue rests with the drivetrain, not the ch***is. Driveability may be somewhat better with a rebuilt (new parts) S10 ch***is.

I guess it just depends on what you are wanting the end result to be. I personally can't see the advantage of the S10, but to each his own. Good luck with your project, whatever you decide.

JayD

 

big-e... some good points made.

pomona swap is coming up... chances are we can find a decent 39/40 frame... preferably a roller.

another example... killer was selling a '37 1/2 ton truck ch***is, full suspension, for around $700

 

use a 86 crown victoria frame,i built mine a 42 truck with a 5.0 fi/aod.i modified the frame with 2x4 box tubing.

 

I say put it on a s10. You come out way ahead when you think about upgrading the brakes, steering, etc. If you want the upgrade. I put my 50 chevy 2 door deluxe on one, and used a BB mopar drive train. I have zero experince doing this and I pulled it off with my friends. Plus the aftermarket suspension stuff is a dime a dozen.

 

I measured one up to make the swap but never did it. It's a little tight at the cowl where the fenders bolt on. The other thing to check is the steering box clearance with the front fender.

For the 40 I think the short bed S-10 is the best. When we do the 48 Chevy trucks we use long beds.

For a daily driver I think you would be better off with the S-10 than the original. Plus a stock ch***is with all the parts you need will not be cheap. I would bet over $1000. If you go with the stock stuff to keep the purists happy You'll have a bundle in dropped axle, split bones, steering and good brakes. If you go with the Mustang II you will be ridiculed just as much as the S-10 set up.
Clark

 

A friend of mine built his on a thunderbird frame. I don't remember the year.
He said it went together easy.

If you are not redoing an "original" truck, I don't think what frame really matters.
In fact, using an newer frame, with ***le, may be one of the easiest ways to register and insure the finished project.

Building the truck on an S-10 ch***is and then installing a flathead drive train might be a bit weird though.

 

Bumpstick,

I have an older issue of Street Rod Builder (2002?) where they do this exact swap. It was a very detailed article with step-by-step photos. I'll try to dig it up for you tonight...


Ed

 

"I plan on keeping it for the rest of my life!" Yeah right. Have you guys priced what juice brakes are going for?
The s10 was free and I thought about going original but kinda' want to upgrade a little. I'll try and keep it low enough so I won't offend the purists (you know, the guys who are on their knees at car shows) I'll try and not cut up the sheet metal so if I sell it anyone can "save" it.
Clark, your trucks kind of inspired me. It's a shortbed.
Burger, that would be righteous if you could find that article or even the issue date. Thanks man.
Mike, I'll take that Q-Jet if you arn't gonna' use it.
Keep the info coming fellas. Thanks, -stick

 

There was a guy on here that did the swap. It looked good when he was done. I don't remember his hamb name. He airbagged it. He was from here in OKC.

 

'35-40 (& '41 Pickup) are the same - after that, the frames are different - it would proabably work, but it'd be way too much trouble to justify. Besides, there's enough '35-40 p***/pickups out there that finding a frame shouldn't be too hard - and relatively inexpensive.

 

we have juice backing plates bubba... gotta locate some drums which isnt all that difficult, or you can covert to disc brakes... c'mon, we live in the 21st century where everything is a pre-fab'd kit.

q-jet = yours

 

Isn't that a 38 or 39, not a 40?

For my .02, Find the correct frame for it. I see them on egay regularly. But then I wouldn't put a GM engine in it either.

 

Hi,
If you only have the cab and are building a fenderless truck...
I dont think you will like the "look" of this combination. Although
it may be the fast and cheap way to get on the road. Nothing
wrong with the S10 frame...I am putting one under a 50 Chevy
truck thanks to an old post by Clark.
Bill

 

bumpstick- i found the issue. it has another article on installing a heidts' m2 into your ch***is as well. give me your address and i'll send it out tomorrow.


ed
ps- the article says that 35-40 car and up to 41 truck ch***is are the same

 

IMHO none of those trucks look good without fenders anyway. I wouldn't use the S10 ch***is either, or probably even consider buying one done like that. I'm not alone.

 

Wow! Thanks for the responses and opinions guys. All will be considered. The truck will be full fendered with a bed.
81, good eye. 39' but I don't like the 39' front end. I know I'm ******* off a lot of people. But hey, when don't I?
Burger, thanks man. I'll pm my address. -stick
p.s. Are car hood hinges the same as truck.

 

Bumpstick- Above it was mentioned that my sons truck is S-10 framed,But not so- it has an S10 Rear axle on a 40 frame with a MustangII frt.......iTS a 47 cab- and yours is a 38-[same dimensions tho as a 40 too.]

Thats what I'd recommend -def'-use a stock frame....it will be cheaper in the end.
If you value your time at a dime an hour....
Its so easy to clean up an old set of rails and install a frt crossmember/bolt on the new suspension and brakes and a leaf kit and a Maverick or Mustang rear......
Then your bed-cab- and sheetmetal all bolt right up the bumpers bolts rite up...its a no brainer...PLUS RESALE IS HIGHGER.
Also in Cali-I wouldn't want the late model curse of having a seperate serial number from an 82[in case of a numbers check by law enforcement]- and even a possibility of being put into an "emissions situation" as a 1982!

 

Use the S-10, Modern/proven/excellent roadability, no glitches. Channel the body, build the tunnel and floorboards after you've got everything else hooked up. I'd chop the top too.

 

Don't like the look of a 39? Hard for me to fathom... Good luck with your project. I've seen a few 1940 frames come up here on the hamb. 1940-41 Ford trucks used the 1940 car frame in case you find a car frame you can use.

 

i have a bare frame off a 38 i leaned against one of the outbuildings at the inlaws farm years ago. i have no idea what kind of shape its in. next time im out there i will see if i can find it underneath the blackberrys. if a local hamber has an interest let me know. they can have it for free.

 

This is the wrong place to ask about changing frames. most of the people here will preach the only frame that should go under a car is the one that was made for it.

BUT.....what about that first guy that put a Model A body on a 32 frame. Wonder how many people told him it couldn't be done and it was just wrong? It's not gonna be worth as much? Too much work?

Think outside the box! Otherwise be a restorer!
Clark

 

Bumpstick,

PM Matt ('Hole Shot Garage' )here on the HAMB, he has put a '40 Ford PU on a S10 ch***is.
It came out good.

 

If you decide to get a ford frame, I can give you a number for one near by me and the last time I was there he had some nice 40 p/u stuff.

 

I agree. In all my old Ford dealings, if a non-stock ch***is or even Mustang II style front end is mentioned, it leaves me out and as cold as a cu***ber.

I'd rather have them say it's on a jig built frame. At least then ya' get the idea that the frame was built for the body and not the other way, which is wacking the body to fit the frame.

 

Bumpstick,

Would the use of Ford parts for the major components of your Ford bodied truck be out of the question? Not trying to be a wisecracker here but I'm truely at a loss as to why the majority of Ford rod builders march right over to General Motors even though Ford has some half decent stuff that seems to manage to motivate millions of factory Fords reliably everyday. I dunno if it were a Willys where there is no modern V8 then fine, but on a Ford why not build a Ford, not a crossbreed. I promise you won't be disappointed.

 

BTW,

I have a contact that has a `40 pickup rolling ch***is in Fla. PM me if you want it.

 

What happened to using what you've got to make what you want?