Technical 1940 ford steering column

I’m planning to install an original replacement column drop on my 40 standard coupe. I’ve found lots of threads on this subject but need clarification on something. Is the bell flare at the top of the column removable? (Circled in attached pic) if so I’m planning to pull the steering wheel and install the column drop from the top. Any issues with my plan? Thanks all-

 

I think you will have a problem doing it that way, the cup is crimped to the mass jacket.

 

What about a little heat or is the cup pot metal? If steel, is the cup spot welded to the mast tube?

 

Bell is potmetal. Not welded but crimped/swaged as Marty said.

 

Don't try it. Remove the tube with steering gear still mounted in the car and take the tube to the work bench. Unbolt the shift cluster from tube with the shift rods left connected to it and Trans arms. Don't make a big job out of removing the tube.

 

Follow "Don't try it." advice above.
That bell is swaged very tight. Not meant to be removed.
You will probably break it. in the process.. I did successfully
remove once but, would never do it again. If you do try, make
sure to have a spare available.

 

Agree with pist-n-broke--this is the proper way-that bell is very easy to damage.

 

Pot metal is a One time deal.

 

Thanks for the feedback. Is it just the clamp above the gearbox that needs to be loosened to remove the tube?

 

yes and remove shifting setup as pist-n-broke mentioned above

 

I believe the Gear Box has a ridge that indexes in a Slot in the tube to keep it from rotating. I think you must just pull strait up to get it off the box casting.

 

Great tips, thanks everyone. I’ll post some before and after pics when it’s done.

 

big deal is getting the steering wheel off.....let us know how that goes........

 

Will do. My steering wheel has threaded holes in the hub so I can use a puller. Hoping it goes well. I’ll update. Thanks

 

Be sure to leave the Nut on the shaft flush with the Top Thread. This will keep the shaft end from flairing and needing further attention to get the Nut back on.

 

Ok, the wheel popped right off with the puller. No issues. Now I’m going to try to pull the tube off. Once I loosen the clamp above the gear box (and disconnect the linkage) the tube and the shift arm above it - also attached to the bell, will all come out as a unit?

Also, while this is all apart I plan on replacing the linkage bushings, any other maintenance or improvements I should do while I have this all apart? ...and I’m going to repair some cracks in the steering wheel and paint it. What should I use to fill the small cracks?

Thanks!

 

If you have good paint on your dash I would just loosen the 3 bolts a little holding the steering box to the frame so it will drop down a little and help get the column mount clear as it comes up and out from under. 2 of the 3 mount holes in the frame are slotted so you can do this. Are you aware of how the actual shift arm comes out of the retainer on the shift shaft? I'd have to go look but I don't think it's an actual roll pin. I think it's the one some destroy trying to drive out. I probably should go look at mine for a refresher.

 

It should all come out as a unit.
There is a thread about steering wheel repair every other week, so take a look using this at the top of the page:
There was one active as of a few days ago.

 

I have a box of the shift collar and linkage pieces if you break something! Good luck!

what he said below about the little spring and ends-- don't lose em. Have has to search fora few when the went flying-glad I had some spares

 

Memory isn't totally gone but does throw me a curve once in a while. Correct in that it is not a roll pin but a spring loaded retainer. You must depress from both sides what shows flush to the tube the shift handle slides into. The spring in the two shouldered end pieces is about the size of one in an Ink Pin. Once both ends are pressed in far enough you just pull the shift lever out. Now, be dang careful the 3 little parts don't go flying. Last few times I've done this I have had a second pair of hands come help. It saves about 2 hours searching for the pieces. See photo, ask questions if you'd like.

 

PC7 is the filler guys like for fixing steering wheels. lots of threads on the subject

 

Thanks for explaining this and posting the pics. I looked at my column and I see that piece. Question: I’m planning to replace the column drop, so I guess I’ll need to disassemble this in order to slide the old drop off/ new drop on?

 

Correct. The shift cluster has 2 wafer style washers, don't loose them. The roll pin it the shift shaft just pulls out then the top or First reverse arm will slide off the shaft.

 

There is a Torque lock bolt holding the part your changing on place. The head snaps off when proper torque is met. It looks like a counter sunk pin. To remove it I take a 5/16 nut and machine a shoulder just long enough to meet the end of said bolt and plug weld it on through the thread hole in the nut. The heat shock brakes the thread lock and the head of nut you just welded on lets you remove the bolt. Ya, it's a little tricky. Drilling and trying to easy out the dang thing just plain don't work for me.

 

Thanks for all the tips. Sounds like I have some work ahead of me...I’ll report back.

 

^^^ This--lots of good info given. Think you can remove all the shift cluster and linkage underhood and just then drop the column a bit and pull it and shift lever intact inside to remove. Leave shift lever on column. Get the drop off as said and spread the new one just a bit and slide on-must be in open/unlocked position to remove so the dog pin is not into the column. It's been awhile since i took one apart though. Removing the shear bolt is not an easy task as Pist-n-broke said above.

 

I just read your post again and im not understanding how I get that spring depressed so the shift shard releases?

 

Both ends depress into the Shift handle and come out with the Arm.

 

Ok, I plan to tackle this next weekend. Thanks again.

 

We'll be here,,,, I hope.