Hey guys... Anyone have any suggestions on aftermarket Willys setups? I need a ch***is for a 1940 steel coupe, but don't want to mess with the factory one. Anyone have any input on who makes a good setup? Also, is Dennis Taylor out of business? Thanks, Hyfire
What type of ch***is setup are you liiking for? Drag race? Straight axle, Mustang II type front? Narrowed rear? The Outlaw ch***is that I have seen don't look too bad. I personally like Art Morrison, but a ch***is from there won't even remotely resemble anything original. They will build it how ever you want it though. As far as Dennis Taylor goes, I have heard some very bad stories about them from one of their former vendors but have no personal experience there. Bill
I can build one for you for a reasonable price and I think you would be pleased with it.. just finished a 38 willys pickup ch***is for a gentleman in rhode island
go to http://www.fasttimesrods.com If you call ask for Pete, it may take a few tries. Tell him Rob with the Studebaker sent you. He'll hook you up.
Dennis layed-off everyone last year, just him and his cousin worked the final few cars, and he's now out of business. Web page and Goodguys Ad's are gone for the last two issues. Hopefully he can pay back the deposits. He was a funny guy. While most of us would love to have someone teach us something new, and then use those skills, he felt people were stealing his ideas, and kept everything secret. People who sell stuff who learned how to make it from him were instantly "them!" As they say, this **** ain't rocket science, and while he was a real craftsman, all the other aspects made him someone who was a bummer to be around. I didn't know his wife too well, but she seemed more sane. He got all excited about a stone, woods, and cook clone, and blew all his money on that. It started out as a race car, then morphed into a street rod, and well, ****, who want's another poser car out there. If you get a microscope you can see it in the good guys march meet coverage, sitting out in the rain behind the real SWC car. Bummer, no respect... http://www.good-guys.com/news/ggNewsDetail.aspx?ID=504
ACTWILLYS HOT RODS IT'S EASIER THAN YOU THINK...TO OWN A WILLYS! 41 COUPE/ S-10 DISCOUNT PACKAGE '41 PICKUP S-10 '41 G***ERS '41 STREETRODS 33s '41 BODY PRICING '33 BODY PRICING S-10 CH***IS OPTIONS MARK 2 CH***IS and OPTIONS WHAT'S NEW? 6/14/06 T SHIRTS F.A.Q. NOSTALGIA WHEELS '41 COUPE FITTED BODY /S-10 CH***IS KIT '41 WILLYS Coupe Body ACTIVE POWER WILLYS Bodys are patterned off the Original Steel Car. Our Fibergl*** panels are interchangable with the original. Upgrades have been made without sacrificing authenticity. Our fibergl*** body is laminated using state of the art processes and technology and is delivered to you in a polished, high gloss, gelcoat finish. Floors and Bulkheads are installed in our alignment fixtures, insuring consistentcy in ch***is mount up. Bodies are reinforced with hardwood and backed with steel in key high stress areas such as the hinge and latch mounting points. Structural tubing is also used under the dash and in the 1/4 panel areas adding rigidity, while providing mounting points for key components. Your Body is delivered with the doors installed using hidden hinges, Bear claw latches and strikers. Tinted Tempered side windows, with power window regulators are installed. Tinted safety gl*** front and rear is installed using OEM Style rubber seals. The '41 also offers the choice of a 4 piece or tilt front end. (Specify when ordering) CH***IS COMPONENTS V-8 Motor Mount, Transmission Crossmember, Body Mounting Brackets, S-10 Brake Pedal/ Steering Column adapter plate. 4 Link Rear Suspension System: Properly converts the leaf spring rear suspension to Coil Overs. This kit is optional for the Pickup, but is required for the Coupe. Reduces stock 108" wheelbase to 102" and makes clearance for the Body. Kit consists of parallel links with poly rod ends, panhard bar, rear end 4 link brackets, coil over shocks, shock brackets, grade 8 hardware and installation instructions. Choose between the Standard or Pro Street Back Half. Pro-Touring Kit comes with 3 weld in crossmembers and retains the stock frame rails. Allows up to 10" Wheel. Pro Street Back Half comes with a complete subframe. Allows up to 15" Wheel. V-8 Motor Mount, Transmission Crossmember. Properly mount Chevy V-8 with a 9" re****t. Complete Body and Ch***is Modification Kit Package Deal 9995.00 '41 EXTENDED CAB PICKUP FITTED CAB/ STEEL BED '41 WILLYS X- Cab Pick-Up The ACTIVE POWER 41 WILLYS Pickup has been extended 9" to give modern day comfort in the cl***ic 40s Styling. The Pick Up Cab is laminated and ***embled using the same techniques as the Coupe insuring the quality todays Rod Builder requires. The Pickup Bed is constructed of steel with fibergl*** rear fenders and tailgate insert. Structural tubing is also used under the dash and in the rear cab area for rigidity, while providing mounting points for key components. Your Cab is delivered with the doors installed using hidden hinges, Bear claw latches and strikers. Tinted Tempered side windows, with power window regulators are installed. Tinted safety gl*** front and rear is installed using OEM Style rubber seals. The '41 also offers the choice of a 4 piece or tilt front end. (Specify when ordering) MARK I Chevy S-10 Modification Hardware V-8 Motor Mount, Transmission Crossmember. Properly mount Chevy V-8 with a 9" re****t. Complete Pick Up Cab, Bed and S-10 Ch***is Mounting Kit Package Deal 8995.00 Willys Hot Rods 800-699-3780 sales@willyshotrods.com Mentor, Oh 44060 ACTIVE POWER bodies will fit on a S10 ch***ie. Why not do the same whith your body.
No one would ever care. Your hell would be self-imposed. Start thinking in terms of it being mechanical, and not human. A lot of people get wrapped-up in strict religious culture. When I bought models as a kid, I never used the instructions. If you have a willy's frame use it, if you don't, then use what you can get, and don't ask the priest if you're going to go to hell or not, he's got his own problems.
what could possibly be wrong with the stock frame? I'm guessing it's similar to the early 40's mopar x style frames, and mine is sturdy as hell after 66 years...if you got a stock one, use it...that's my 2 pennies worth... P.S. - there's a special kind of hell reserved for S-10 frame using folks...hahaha...j/k...it's just regular hell...
you can box a regular frame and get by with it , but a 2x4 would be much stronger and new and the way you want it..........and we build em however you want, for whatever look you are after..... but an s-10 , man I dont even like them under an s10
I just bought a set of frame rails from Pete for my steel Willys. He makes them them a little deeper and thicker guage than factory but the same shape and fully boxed. He has sent me lots of pics of his work and it's very impressive. I wouldn't hesitate to have him build me a ch***is, but I wanted to do it local so I could be involved. He builds nose high straight axle g***ers or slamed Pro Street stuff and anything inbetween.
To me, a willys g***er should have a stock frame if your going for g***er. Or at least look like it was stock. Your putting it up in the air and it will be easy to see....g***er is a period thing and most those guys used what they had. NO aftermarket frames etc. The stocker is good enough for high 10's on my car, and it aint the fastest out there....just my .02
Ronnie Sandifer at Hillside Street Rods, 19428 Section Road, Covington, LA 70435 (985) 898-3653 - the very best and correct contours and form. If you find an original, the only correct frame is a 1939 Overland or 1940. 1941 and 1942 frames have a 2" longer wheel base (104" vs 102" on the 1940) and are 2'' wider tapering outward from just behind the rear kick up to the rear frame horns. 1937,1938 and 1939 Model 48 frames are 100" wheelbase, mechanical brakes and 4 lug brake drums.
Got a stock frame under my '40. Took me a little while to box the entire thing, but all in all....it fits and has a good look to it. Aftermarket is aftermarket. Carl Hagan
I think I'd try to build a copy of the stocker with a little better materials. I think that is what SWC did.
box the original, put a cage in and tie it all together. Ours will run 9's and I am very confident we will never tear it up.
So i've got a 39 coupe body with its stock frame but a 40 doghouse, soooooooooo what should I make the wheel base end up. I know I'll set it up and eyeball it all just curious what you think. I'm plannning on running it down low with independant suspension and just a 10" rim in the rear(no pro street). I want it to handle good around corners. 'Thanks for any input. TomCat 1
If you have a factory ch***is, and your building a g***er, just box, and use it. You could build one out of 2x3 tube pretty easy.
My 10 sec. g***er uses a stock, boxed, crossmember gusseted ch***is. They are available in all conditions, just be careful of rust issues . Easiest way to box one is use art store accessed posterboard for making patterns, front to rear. Use .100 thick sheet steel material. Make your patterns, transfer to the steel. Invest in or borrow a buddy's steel cutting band saw and a BUNCH of blades, and go for it. When you weld them in, I prefer to fit them close enough so they tap into the inside of the original about 3/16" (Made a guage out of a block of aluminum) Insetting into the rail (in my humble opinion) is stronger after installing, easier to weld, and gives a nicer finish. One thing to consider, if you choose to add/change crossmembers place them before you box, running them into the original rails. Your boxing will include them, strengthening the whole works. My boxing included the all 4 legs of the x-member. It's probably overkill on my part, but I felt it was necessary with my blower motor and sticky tires. So far all is well.
That's pretty much the same setup I have...39 body and frame, 41 nose. I stayed with the 39 frame's wheelbase which was right at 100"
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