Over the past almost 20 years on the HAMB; I’ve always found my solution using the search function. Well, I’m struggling this time. I would like to install this one-piece gasket for a trial fit before I install glass…..the glass I don’t have yet. Leaky or not I would like to utilize the flip out mechanism. What is the best way to install this gasket? Slide it into the channel or push it in with something? Rubber gasket tool? Lube maybe? Has anyone ever successfully removed this gasket? It seems like it will easily damage. If the fit with the flip out does not line up properly any ideas on how to permanently mount the frame/gasket to the cab? Thanks
I would bet the frame will distort some with out the glass, so your trial fit will not show much. My '37's frame was pretty flimsy till I had the whole assembly put together. Also beings it's a one piece, you won't just slide in, you have to start the front side and push in the back side or vise versa. If thats a SteelRubber gasket, it will work just fine. I went through two other venders till I bought the Steel piece. The others were to stiff, the windshield wouldn't close or seal. With the SteelRubber seal, the glass closes all the way and seals up pretty good. I added a second seal just on the inside lip of the windshield frame around the cab, it's a very soft universal bulb type so the windshield frame lays against it as secondary seal. With what the seals cost, I would not want to try and remove one after all the work to install it.
Joe that makes sense, the glass will stiffen the frame. I think I bought the gasket from Jim Carter Chevy. I've read the SteelRubber products are much better. Next step is I'll get glass cut and look into the Steel products. thanks.
i have done a few of these. is that a new frame or an original? the first thing i do is set the frame in the hole in the truck and check for how far out the center sits away from the truck. new frame center vee join bars always seem to be bent a bit to far out. if you adjust the bar be careful because the screw holes make them weak. as far as putting the gasket in the channel i have never got them to slide they fit to tight. i start on the bottom center, lube and use a plastic flat pry bar to push i9t down in the channel. it will be a pita for the first few inches then you will get the hang of it. they arent bad to do but the issue is the gaskets for these suck no matter who you bought it from. i carry a towel in my truck to wipe the dash off when its raining
dishwashing soap works ok but a better product is tire mounting lube. you usually can buy it at a parts store. its not expensive and is made for rubber on steel
I live just outside of Eau Claire. The frame is original. I had to cut part of the back of the frame apart just to get the v-bars out. I made new V-bars but decided to buy new ones thinking the angle would be closer. The center gasket is junk, I will need to buy a new one. I could not get the screws out of the top mounts, but I think I can fix that as well. So I have some fab work ahead of me. Other than that the frame is in ok shape I think. Again if I'm not happy with the flip out I will just mount it solid. If that is the case I'm assuming I can still use the same gasket and use a better sealer behind it? From previous windshield installs, this frame seems smaller. The frame does not have a lip, it relies on the outer gasket. This is why I wanted to trial fit the frame before I install the glass.
i am amazed it is good enough to use they usually are not. the problem with solid mount is you cant get to the screws on the top edge of the dash if you need/want to remove it for what ever reason. the problem with the center bar is the outside gasket is part of the center bar it is molded to it so it isnt replaceable in the true sense of the word. my avatar truck has the original center bar on a replacement frame i used sealer to get it mounted. getting the top screws out can be a challenge you really need time and patience. i do have some original frames around if you need some pieces. i normally jut use new frames nowadays. i am in portage so we are not that far apart.
Thanks a lot for the help cshades, appreciate it. And yes I would need to remove the dash so I was thinking of ways around the dash mount in case I solid mounted the frame. Have a flip out and the cowl vent working just makes a person smile. You can see from my photo that my frame is pretty decent. But the top inside cap where the windshield hinges are mounted is all rusted through. Had to fabricate a panel to repair. From what I've seen, new frames are crazy expensive. At least the flat glass is cheap. I'll keep you posted on progress and if I need anything. I'm sure I'll have other questions moving forward as well.
You can order brand new glass from classic parts for really reasonable. Just ordered every piece for a 46 I’m building for a friend of mines.
auto city classic out of minnesota has all of the glass cut and ready to go. i usually get it within a day or two after ordering it. yes new frames used to be about $500 now they are closer to a 1000
most of the time the cap is rusted out because the header panel makes a perfect place for the rodents to live.
For my 34 windshield I had a glass place up the road from me cut and install the glass in my frame for $180, which I thought was reasonable. For $120 for both panels for my 41 I think I will go that route. Do you use an inner gasket for the glass, or the glass setting tape or windshield adhesive? Thanks.
the last one i did i used the rubber setting tape. my first one i glued in but i am always afraid that some day i will get a rock chip and have to buy a new frame because you will never get the glass back out if it is glued. $120 is reasonable
The frames are flimsy without the glass in them. When I did the crank out for a 47 International I used urethane to set the glass. Installed the frame into the cab and cranked the windshield closed tight before the urethane got hard. If you don't do this step the frame may not fit the opening in the cab, as they twist easily until the urethane hardens. Then you can remove the frame and put the gasket around the frame on.
A good quality heat gun should work. Induction heat is used on new cars now. It releases the glue in places a knife won’t cut
another trick for using the urethane is to use a few short pieces of setting tape to locate the glass, trim them, then run a small [no smaller] bead of urethane around the frame inside and out. then if/when it needs to be removed it can be done by running a razor blade around to release the glass. works with side glass too.
Very good information here, thanks. I do need to fix the upper mount threaded holes (two of them are sloppy) Think I should Tig in a rivet nut 10-32 or 10-24? Or cut out the section completely and weld in a thinker flat bar and re-thread. Or machine a piece to weld in. Thinking the rivet nut as long as it does not hit the channel would be easiest.
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