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COE 1941 Ford COE build

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by wetskier2000, Jul 15, 2011.

  1. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,849

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    That would work, 'cept in this case there was no battery in it when I got it.
     
  2. Old FORDS are +++++ ground
     
  3. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,618

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Yes, 'hotwire'. On the back of the toggle switch (ignition switch) there are 2 wires. One is 'Batt', the other is 'coil', or 'ign'. Jumper wire one to the other, the resistor is on the coil (or under the dash on drivers side) so don't worry about frying the coil.
    Just make sure you 'hotwire' it here, at the switch. (not direct 6 volts to the Ford coil, or you will boil the oil and let the smoke out of it!)
     
  4. pwrbydisel
    Joined: Dec 26, 2010
    Posts: 17

    pwrbydisel
    Member
    from New York

    Hi there,
    I have a 1984 GMC 1 ton 3500 dually ch***is. Was going to save it for a cabover project but plans changed. I have it up for sale now on here. Was asking 1200 for it but if interested let me know, lets make a deal...
    Thanks
     
  5. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,849

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Thanks! I just need to jumper the toggle switch located on the column support and not the key that's on the side of the same support? What's the key do?
     
  6. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,849

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Thanks for the offer... The current plan is a later model donor that's complete, running and lowerish mileage, but things can always change. Is there a drivetrain in your 3500 or just a rolling ch***is?

    Rick
     
  7. lanny haas
    Joined: Nov 1, 2008
    Posts: 560

    lanny haas
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    Would the key be the ignition switch, and the toggle be the starter switch? Some old cars had that, turn on the key, than push a starter ****on, Had a 56 buick that you truned the key than there was a big ****om by the gas pedal that you pushed with your foot to start it. just a thought..
     
  8. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,849

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    The starter push ****on is located on the dash. We managed to figure that one out.

    There is a key in the column right beside the column support bracket and there is also a toggle switch located on top of the same column support bracket. We don't know what those do.
     
  9. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,849

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    I found a parts listing that shows an Ignition Switch Plate that looks like it surrounds my toggle switch and also Ignition Cylinder lock that appears it might be just a column lock and maybe a lock for the toggle.

    I'll take a closer look at both. 1 of them should have 3 terminals (Batt, coil and Gauges?).
     
  10. Saxman
    Joined: Nov 28, 2009
    Posts: 3,556

    Saxman
    Member

    If I remember right, the key does two things. When turned to the ON position, it:

    1. Unlocks the column.
    2. Allows the ignition (toggle) switch to be turned on.
     
  11. rainh8r
    Joined: Dec 30, 2005
    Posts: 792

    rainh8r
    Member

    I've been driving one for 16 years, and they are fun. First, the 41 is the only year with the shiny grille, which is good. Parts interchange on them up to 47 for most things-the dash in the 38-39's were different and the door dovetails were narrower on the pre-war trucks. The cab is 7" wider than a regular truck cab, so if the engine goes behind the cab, you have lots of room up front. There are some repo parts available, but not much. Bob Drake and Wescott have both built them for their own use, so they offer some parts. Mine is on a 1 ton GMC ch***is, but the stepvans work better if you are looking for a ch***is change-check the width and steering box angle. They are really prone to rust inside the door posts and other structural areas up front, so be sure what you have-these weren't made to last forever. Have fun-you really can do about anything with them.
     
  12. LOVE THOSE COEs
    I picked up an engine and ****** from a 52 Ford COE last year. It had the emergency brake lever attached to the ****** and I used the lever in our roadster project. Got the engine apart and it checks out for a future build project. I picked up the stuff and there was the cab in his garage - looked like the start of a swell project...
     
  13. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,849

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    No Joy... Doesn't want to crank on 6 volts even though I'm pretty sure that's what its set up for. A taillight bulb that appeared to still be wired was a 6 volt model.

    Definately positive ground. The grounded batt cable clamp was far larger than the one going to the starter solenoid and matched the POS batt term. Engine rotation verified by fan direction.

    The motor will spin pretty good on 12 volts, but of course, I don't dare send that to the ignition circuit. I found the 3 terminals on the steering column toggle switch and tried to send 6 volts to that, but again no spark. I think you are correct Saxman on the function of the key in the column.

    It's not crucial as it's getting swapped anyway, but would have been fun to hear the old boy fire up. And I had visions of taking him to a local antique car show on the trailer then driving him into the show and scaring all the women and children.

    Thanks for all that great info Rain!

    Pay no attention to that non stock engine crank or that goober standing beside my truck!



    [​IMG]
     
    hillbillyblanco likes this.
  14. Saxman
    Joined: Nov 28, 2009
    Posts: 3,556

    Saxman
    Member

    Holy ****! Talk about patina.
     
  15. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,849

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Yeah, "patina"... So that's what the young kids are calling it now...

    I've been looking at 4 door "crew cab" COE conversions and while works of art for the most part, they strike me as making the exterior dimensions of the cab bigger than I would like for a daily driver. I thought about a sleeper also, again, really bigger than I would like... Problem is that I want 4 full size seats in the thing so even with an "extended cab" instead of a 4 door that will be a tight fit.... Ideas?

    thanks,

    Rick
     
  16. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,849

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    I've been looking at Google Images of early Ford COEs (which included my '57 Willys cuz of the way Google's search engine works :) ) and it seems like I might be able to come up with a 4 door design that's not larger than I'd like. The key items seem to be: 1) As low as I can get the rig 2) Make the rear doors noticeably smaller then the fronts. I'm thinking 1/2 to 3/4 width standard pickup doors. I found a 1947 standard cab pickup that may fit the bill. Was the body style still the same as a 1941 COE?

    Also, tried again to find the serial number. I think I can make out a 8 on the left frame rail about 6 feet back from the front, but that's it. I found a "data plate" under the hood on the cab, but it looks like it's just a long list of patent numbers and no serial number. Any ideas?
     
  17. Ron in AZ
    Joined: Jun 1, 2010
    Posts: 54

    Ron in AZ
    Member

    Hi ,
    The only serial number I could find on my 1947 COE is on the inside of the glove box door. Did you get a ***le with your ride?
    Ron.......
     
  18. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,849

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Hi Ron,

    Nope, no ***le, just a bill of sale. I'll check the glove box door, but since it's wood I won't hold my breath. Were they wood from Ford or would that be a field "upgrade"?

    BTW: The steering box from my 41 will be available, but it's gonna be a while. What's your timetable?

    thanks,

    Rick
     
  19. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 5,080

    phat rat
    Member

    That would be a field "upgrade"
     
  20. Django
    Joined: Nov 15, 2002
    Posts: 10,198

    Django
    Member
    from Chicago

    Ha, my Dad calls his Ford work truck Buford too.

    Looking forward to the crew cab conversion.
     
  21. FC49
    Joined: Oct 11, 2009
    Posts: 324

    FC49
    Member


    This one is a later year than yours, built by Gene Milella of Rochester, NY. He used a Chevy truck ch***is and BBC power.

    Frank C.

    [​IMG]

    (SMR Photo)
     
  22. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,849

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    that's sweet!! Wow... I got a long way to go!

    Does the stamped serial number include the "prefix"? I saw the listing for 1941 Ford serial numbers as 18-5,nnn,nnn thru 18-6,nnn,nnn. Is the entire thing stamped including the 18-? I'd further guess the commas are not stamped ie: 18-5123456. Right?
     
  23. Ron in AZ
    Joined: Jun 1, 2010
    Posts: 54

    Ron in AZ
    Member

    I according to the Early Ford V8 of America Expanded Legend I have, the 1941 prefix starts with a "11A" and a flatbed (COE Platform/Stake) is a "93B"
    And the glove box door tag should look like this..........
    If I can get the pictures to load that is....
     

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  24. Ron in AZ
    Joined: Jun 1, 2010
    Posts: 54

    Ron in AZ
    Member

    Here is a close up view of the "vin" on my truck glove box tag...
     
  25. Ron in AZ
    Joined: Jun 1, 2010
    Posts: 54

    Ron in AZ
    Member

    NICE... try this again... It looks like this.... ta da....!
     

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  26. verde742
    Joined: Aug 11, 2010
    Posts: 6,588

    verde742
    Member

    call me,,

    Bob
     
  27. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,849

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Oh, that is NICE! thank you, Ron... I wish I had a metal glove box door... I tried the crossmember locations near the radiator that were also rumored to have the serial number, but again no luck...
     
  28. derbydad276
    Joined: May 29, 2011
    Posts: 1,336

    derbydad276
    Member

    use a 74 and up econoline ch***is keep it ford!!
    if you use a 100 /150 ch***is you should be as low as you want to be
    lots of them around
    302/351/460 engines aod trans 9 inch rears
    pics are of one I saw at the ***** raid had a V10 under it on a motorhome ch***is i think
     

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  29. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,849

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Thanks for the ideas and pics, DerbyDad. Unfortunately, mine needs to be a 4WD to handle steep boat ramps which knocks out pretty much all the van and motor home options. I toyed with the dually idea and maybe having enough traction on slick, steep boat ramps, but have decided the benefit of 2wd just won't be worth it the first time I get stuck on a boat ramp.

    BTW: Anyone else notice what Barry Weiss of the TV show Storage Wars was driving to take a keyboard to one of his buddy's places? YUP! A 38/39 Ford COE! I search around the web a bit and found nothing about the COE, but did find a video of his '46 Caddy.

    Rick
     

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