COE 1941 Ford COE build

That's pretty cool. Thanks... Sort of the opposite of what I need to do, but I think the same rules apply.. He was doing a wheelwell panel and making a curved flange on a flat(ish) panel. I need to make a straight flange on a curved panel... If I understand how this works, I think both are pretty much the same process...

 

I'd practice on something I didn't care about first.

 

Absotively!

 

A non exhaustive search for tipping dies reveals that none are in my tiny shaft size. I see 22mm and 3/4, but my bead roller shaft is only about .060. Maybe a collar of some sort to make up the difference?

 

I'm ***uming a typo, .600 not .060? A pair of sleeves should do it.

 

ordered the Woodward Fab set... We'll see what I get and how hard/simple they are to adapt to my TDK bead roller.. (yes .6 )

 

Went to a charity car show last weekend... I expected the turn out to be strong, but didn't expect 1000 something cars.... Wow... My wife wanted a more comfortable chair for car shows than our little fold out "bag" chairs... Now she has this chaise lounge thing with canopy, headrest, footrest and integrated coffee maker... Guess what... Yup, barely fits in the sleeper with the seats folded down... I could strap it in the bed, but would prefer a "spot" for it.. I may try moving my new gas tank wall towards the rear a bit, but not as far as I had it before and see if I get that "spot"....

 

No luck on the chaise lounge... it's too big for any configuration of the fuel tank box... Began layout for the louvers on the new panels... Marked with tape... Left and right will line up with 4 inner rows of louvers in the tail light panels. Center set of louvers line up with sleeper louvers when it's tilted... left and right covers bent up. Larger inner covers next...

 

Tipping dies arrive tomorrow...

 

Louvers punched in the new panels... No I didn't paint a mural on it, it's just a reflection....

 

middle set will get finished after tipping die...

 

I just realized I took these pics with my "manstep" in... How embarr***ing!

 

tipping dies arrived... Local True Value bits don't quite fit to accommodate my small shaft... May work with some monkeying around... Or maybe I'll just have to buy a Bridgeport....

 

That looks pretty cool!

 

Tipping dies fit just fine with some collars from the local True Value... (that's the good news).... I tried using them on a curved s**** piece to try and get a 90 degree flange... (this is the bad news)... I see no way in hell I'll get a 90... 45 I can get but then I run into the nut holding the upper die in place. Even without that nut it doesn't seem that could make a 90.... Am I just missing something obvious here??


I bent up the two other covers and placed them near where they'll reside.... I'm just not groovin on the large flat surface....

 

hammer and dolly would be how I would do it, the tipping die has done most of the job for you....

 

I guess my time has come to actually learn how, huh??

 

everyday is a school day

 

Starting to sound like Gene Winfield.

 

If the nut was replaced with a half nut (or less) you would gain a little and reduce the hammer work, as it would allow the outer section to turn up more..

 

I've made some attempts at using a hammer and dolly to repair dents, but haven't had much success... I can increase, decrease or straighten flanges I've made pretty well with a hammer, but dents I seem to just make more of a mess...

This subject could no be more timely... I backed the truck into the pontoon boat trailer and bent up the panel beneath the louvered tail light panels... ugh....

 

... on the big, flat panels that look like cookie sheets... Maybe bead roll them similar to the bed's side panels..... hmmmmm...... My wife says bead roll early Ford V8 emblems into them... I'm not convinced... (nor do I have Blue's talent!)

 

I see lots of UTube videos that show a curved flange on a flat panel like a wheel well opening, but none that show doing a 90 degree flange on a panel that's already curved like my donor F-150 panels... It should be the same principal, right???

 

On a curved panel I use my shrinker / stretcher to move the flange as much as possible then a dolly laid as flat as possible then hammer it out to my 90 .
Can you move your tipping die out toward the end with washers and lock it in place with the set screws . Is the shaft soft enough to drill and tap ? If so you could cut the threaded part of the shaft off , drill and tap and pot a washer just big enough to hold the die in place with a Allen bolt like a Mittler Brothers . I know it’s a lot of work but would make it easier for all the future work . Also a flat on the shaft for the set screw would help .

 

In this video, where he is using a stretcher to straighten his panel, you could use a shrinker to curve the panel more.
Tip the flange a little, shrink/stretch to keep you curve correct, tip some more, shrink/stretch to correct your curve again, repeat, repeat, repeat.

 

Yes, Blue the dies do have set screws.. I will remove the nut, move the tipping die to the end of the threaded shaft then create a little flat spot for the set screw.

I think I get it now... rinse, later, repeat... I was unclear that shrinking/stretching was such an integral part of the process...

 

I moved the donor F-150, louvered panels as far forward as they could go without actually touching the fuel tanks then trimmed the covers... I'm fairly happy with this version but think I'll still bead roll the tops of the cookie sheets somehow...

 

....and as always, thanks for all the help guys!!!

 

after several test tries, I got brave enough to try the actual panel... mixed outcome... Even using the set screw on the tipping die and getting rid of the big nut, I still only get to about a 45... had to hammer the rest... Shrinking is going pretty slow too... But all this seems to be going in the right direction... Quitting for the day...

 

Remember the Three "P"s
Patience
Perseverence
Profanity
You'll be fine. I tend to lean on the third part.