COE 1941 Ford COE build

HFS! Wow! Thanks Oahu. I hadn't pictured the sleeper roof *EVEN* with the cab roof, but it really does look very nice.

On the issues with space for the motor in the sleeper. I think I have that worked out. It looks like I can have a 6 inch bump up in the sleeper to accommodate the engine. I may try to lower the rearmost torsion bar crossmember (it looks pretty easy) and that might give me 2-3 more inches. Sure, I'll trip over it the first 50 times, but I'll have a nice cushy back seat to plant my head into.

I have seen pics of a green COE/Sleeper somewhere. I think it was a 5th wheel. It was a beautiful truck, but something on that one struck me funny with the dimensions. I guess I'll have to go find it and see if I can figure it out.....

Again, many thanks, Eli!

 

Personally I don't like the sleeper ... looks like you have a port-a-john on the back!

So, is the cab sitting on the floor or is it sitting on the stock brackets (which raise it off the frame about 6")

 

Here's a shot of one with a sleeper - give's you some idea of positioning.

 

Any time. Let me know if you have additional ideas you'd like to visualize and I'll whip something up. Eli

 

It's even the right color for a Porta-Potty!!!

Essentially the stock brackets. I see where you're going and that would be a great idea if the floor was down on the rails right now.

Is that COE near you? If so, any chance you could get some more shots of it?

thanks

Rick

 

That photoshop looks great Eli ! I think it flows perfectly with the cab when they are positioned like that!

 

"Is that COE near you? If so, any chance you could get some more shots of it?"

No, I lifted that off the 'net a few years back - I think it was in some pics from the Pomona swap meet.

I'm curious what you're going to do about steering. I was just out at a wreckers looking at various trucks - Dodge in particular since that's what you're using. I did notice Dodge vans use a box that has the column come in from the top. The problem is that there were no trucks sitting there with no bodies so its hard to visualize things.

One method that wa suggested to me was to use an original Ford truck frame and a '73-'87 GM front clip. The clip slips into the Ford frame rails and lowers the front by 6". You mount a rear to achieve the desired rear ride height. This may end up more costly than buying a rolling ch***is as you've done.

 

The 2002 Dodge 1500 is rack and pinion. The shaft is mostly vertical albeit prolly 6-12 inches from where I need it. I figure I can rotate the entire ***embly by simply making new mounting brackets if needed. I think it should be pretty easy. Time will tell if that's true.

 

Speaking of steering... I see lots of you guys with front tires that appear to be in the fat fenders fairly far. How can that work for steering and not hit the fender on turns? Are they all bagged?

 

The original wheel/tire combo was very tall and the track narrow. By putting on a shorter wheel/tire combo and widening the track you should be able to lower the thing quite a bit without any interference.

 

One of my buddies having a little fun. I probably won't go with this design...

 

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I'm guessing its bagged.

 

kool build, you wouldn't still have the original frame would you? looking for some wheels and tires that are in good shape for a friend of mine. He's building a 40. Thanks

 

I'm sorry, the original frame and wheels are gone.

 

Just because they are up in the well doesn't have to mean it can't turn. You pay attention to clearance and the wheel backspace

 

What a great stance. How far inside the fender is your tire?

 

I do !!! I have the complete drivetrain available - all rebuilt. Drop me an email at

stanton_giles(at)hotmail.com

Loads of photos I can send you.

 

One step forward, half step back...

I tried to fit the LS1 between the frame rails mid ship and it's just not going to happen. The rear torsion bar crossmember is completely in the way and even if I addressed that the rear driveshaft has somehow shrunk to less than 10 inches. I measured the stock Dodge DS ujoints at 6 inches... a 4 inch body on the driveshaft? Prolly not...

I scratched several body parts thinking about options...

1) Different frame, Again fully boxed is the issue unless I box it. It could be done but I'm really not set up for it. And I already have this one.

2) Replace the torsion bars with coils or air bags... Pretty huge and a quick search did not yield air bag systems for Dodge 1500 4x4s.

3) Move the motor to the original spot. The LS1 is much wider than the flathead and really doesn't fit there. The already limited footwell space would get even smaller.

4) Under the cab... hmmm... It's really tight, but looks like I can hang the engine somewhat low (as previously suggested) and only have a 5" rise in the cab floor which will be mostly under the seats. I will mean the same 5" bump between the seats also that would "step up" into the sleeper. A little higher than I would like, but I can taper it to lessen the effect on the floor. Of course, I get a normal driveshaft length and the wiring and cooling are probably made much easier.

So far I only see two downsides to this solution. The engine is pretty low, not sure how low yet and cresting boat ramps might be an issue. And the exhaust manifolds are very close to the torsion bars. I have 1/4"-1/2" on each side. Yeah, really close.. Here's my theory... Since the motor mounts are nearly parallel with where the torsion bars meet the exhaust manifolds, the engine roll in that area will be very minimal as motors tend to roll above and below the mounts...

What do you guys think? Too wacky?

 

ok heres a few thoughts I had, for the front suspension, try looking at some imports and such that are FWD that have the strut above the front suspension, they use a wishbone looking thing to make the link between the lower controll arm and strut, also could ya do it ala mustang / falcon with a spring / shock attached to the upper controll arm? does that dodge have an upper control arm? as for short drive shafts, look to getting CV joints instead of U joints, they can live at much higher angles, Look to the CJ jeep folks with huge tires for a solution for itty bitty drive shafts.

 

Sorry I kept forgetting to measure and answer you. Tire to inner lip of fender is 1 3/4"

 

Why don't you put the engine behind the cab? I have a 47 Ford COE and I am building a 48 Ford COE right now and that is what i am doing. I have asked a lot of guys who have built them and almost all of them say: "PUT THE ENGINE BEHIND THE CAB". It sure will make it a lot more comfortable inside the cab and a lot less HEAT for sure.... good luck

 

That was my first choice, but even if I solved the torsion bar issue, I don't have enough driveshaft length. This is a 4 wheel drive and 20" of transfer case takes lots of potential driveshaft real estate, even with 144" wheelbase.

Your point on HEAT from the engine is well taken and definitely a concern. I hope to minimize the problem with insulation both inside and out. Suggestions on what to use are appreciated.

I began to cut the area of the cab where the fuel tank used to sit last night. I tucked the engine up into the hole I created. It now sits just below the stock floor with the bellhousing about even with the back wall of the cab. I'm trying to take this part really slow to avoid doing something I'll regret. Next step is a little more cutting up into the cross braces. I'll weld supports in place before cutting those.

I know typical floor supports are simply formed sheet stock like the "hat channels" on a Willys, but I'll need something a little stronger to replace the piece that runs across the center of the floor and connects to the center body supports. Suggestions? 1" square tube?

thanks,

Rick

 

I've been thinking about how I'll keep from driving off without the tilt mechanism locked down. I thought of a very low-tech solution this AM. Use T-Handled bolts to secure the tilt frame to the fixed frame, but tether them so they hang just touching the ground. The clank-clank-clank would tip me off that something bad is about to happen.

Yeah, there are fancier solutions like using the NSS circuit, but the simplicity of this one appeals to me.

 

The neutral safety switch would be a better solution.

 

Maybe a microswitch set under the cab. Too high, no ignition circuit. The chain idea sounds good at first but if it happens at the wrong time you may be tilting forward while trying to hit the brakes. This could create a serious pucker factor.

 

neat

 

Yeah, I can see this happening.... "Hey what's that noise?", hit brakes, Oh ****!

 

I'm looking for LS1 motor mounts that can span a 33" frame width.. Everything I've seen is too short.. Might have to just build them...

 

Lowered the ride height a bit using the torsion bars. Painfully slow progress as the time to spend on it has been nearly non-existent..