COE 1941 Ford COE build

As you might guess from the lifted Willys in my avatar, I've done a bit of DS shortening and lengthening... the black '57 has a 14" rear driveshaft. It's pretty extreme but works ok. 24 at a moderate angle should work alright also.

 

Well hurry up and get it done so you can let us know how it works. The DS length is what's got me most concerned about my build. A VERY good mechanic friend tells me 48" would be a minimum for a good, reliable daily driver.

 

LOL!!!!!!! I'm pedaling as fast as I can!

My take is that DS length is dictated by acceptable Ujoint running angles. Rule of thumb is no more than 15 degrees for U Joint, CVs can handle more. However, even 15 degrees is pushing it in my mind. I've built several Jeeps within the 15 degree limit that had noticeable vibrations. Vibrations were cured by lessening the angle or going to CVs.

So, as long as the full travel of the rear axle doesn't exceed the Ujoint angle you intend to run then you should be good. But a shorter rear DS does change angles much faster than a long one, of course. It's simple geometry.

There is also the theory of having both ujoints on the same driveshaft running a similar opposite angles, but I don't profess to really understand that one.

 

Dog gone it, now you got me worried about the length of my drive shaft.... ;o)
I think my DS will be somewhere in the 20's to and as long as we are not over 15 degrees i really don't see a problem. When i get ready to sit the engine and ****** in the frame I guess i will just try and line it up with the pinion the best i can. I understand your point with the longer the better (that's what she said)haha
but it is what it is. If you get to that point before me, please let me know how it works for you......

ahhhhh you lost me on that last sentence. Both ujoints running a similar opposite angles?!! hummmmm

 

A 45 degree angle is the same but opposite of a 135 degree angle

 

I know your not asking here and I dont want to derail your thread but to answer a few of the previous questions on mine... I chopped it 3.5 inches and body channeled it 12 inches. I'm 6' tall and till have plenty of room in the cab.I liked the old tow truck look hence the bed shape. I also wanted to build an old school looking 5th wheel trailer to pull the rods with. I don't have anywhere to park a car hauler! LOL I put the 400 ci trans am motor right between the seats on the trans am clip. I have a few friends that have slid them behind the cab and covered the engines with sleepers or ramps for the car haulers. It works just fine and frees up the floor of the cab for all the leg room you will need.

Too bad you couldn't use a divorced Tcase and get a little longer Dshaft to the front... As far as hacking out the back. Just do it! If you don't like it you can always put it back. You've dared to be different don't stop now! I found a steering box out of a VW van that changed the direction nicely for my application. l If I can help in anyway give a shout... Ive been down this road a few times already. Looking really good and I am quietly watching with anticipation.

I haven't read the whole thread but keep in mind that a slip yoke eliminator is available for the np 241 TC. you will gain a few inch's .

 

Finally able to put some more time in on Buford...

Built the engine and torsion bar x members and installed them. The engine is FINALLY where it will stay!



Had to cut the TB x member to clear the engine.



Then cut the cab to accomodate the engine.. But instead of just cutting out the piece I had marked, I cut across the top then down the center and "folded" each piece in.





I was psyched to see some actual progress..

 

Looks good!
Nice milestone to hit.

 

I like your idea about folding in the sheetmetal after the cab cut. It gives it a more finished look. How much will be taken out of the floor of the sleeper?

 

cool build man. keep at it, looking good

 

The sleeper floor will be about the same as the floor under the seats which is 5" about the "regular" footwell height.

Finally did some more work... fabbed and painted the torsion bar brackets. Once I install them then I can do items I actually planned on doing. Maybe start with the tilt frame and order form body parts.

I've been sidetracked by helping a buddy sell his aunt's 1973 BBC Monte Carlo. She's in a nursing home with alzhiemer's. I gave it a onceover, fixed some stuff, cleaned it up and listed it on eBay...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevrolet-Monte-Carlo-Landau-?cmd=ViewItem&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D635502872352632402%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1020%26rk%3D1%26&_trksid=p2045573.m2042&item=150854419491

 

The driveshaft in mine is 14 1/2 in long and not a problem. looking good skier.

 

That's one daunting project. Makes mine look easy.

Keep it up!

 

Way back when ... you were thinking of using a Dakota. What made you change your mind?

 

I found the measurements of the full size would fit and I'd end up with more track...

 

How'd I miss this build? Great project! I'm a big LS engine fan, used a 6.0 in my '48 Diamond T pickup, and have a 4.8 in the '51 Pontiac. You're being pretty creative, I like the sleeper cab too.

Brian

 

Did a little more work. While fabbing the frame that will support the cab and tilt, I realized I need to get the steering column and pedals in to make sure I'm not interfering. It seems my idea of the rack and pinion set up being able to be moved isn't exactly right.

The stub from the R&P and the end of the steering shaft will be about 12-14" apart. I'm thinking about a flat plate bolted to the R&P stub shaft housing and the truck frame with 2 sprockets on it, one for the R&P stub and one for the steering shaft, See the cheesy pics... Connect the two with a chain. I figure he chain won't fail cuz both sprockets are on the same plate. There should be no movement. I suppose if something gets caught in it I'd lose the steering. Other possible issues that could have a nasty ending??

 

Just my opinion. I wouldn't trust my life to a chain doing my steering

 

ahhhhhhhh x2 on that phat rat......

 

How about something the "Steer Clear" product - basically what you describe - a chain drive enclosed - most applications it's used vertically on firewall but would work. I would not want any exposed chain or sprocket parts. Speedway sells the Steer Clear

 

Yeah, losing the steering would put a real damper on the day.. I did a little more research and it seems Borgesons can be had that can safely operate at 70 degrees. I may be able to get back to the rack and pinion stub with turns like that...

Anyone used those double universal joints? I suspect I'll need a carrier somewhere also with 3 or 4 ujoints.

 

Very cool, Paul, thanks for the tip... Yeah, exposed chain or sprockets were my biggest concerns also.. Something gets jammed in there and it would not be pretty. What's the status of your delivery?

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Steer-Clear-Steering-Box-Drop-Brushed-Finish,6254.html

 

If it were me, (and yes I have a 41 Ford COE so know a little about what I'm talking about) I would seriouly think about bringing a shaft up from the rack and tilted backwards to match the column angle. Mount the chain mechanism to braces on the floor, chain it from there forward to the column.

You might have to change the column angle, here is my column, the angle is fine.

 

thank you so much for the tip. Do you have a build thread here?

 

No, I do not have a build thread for my COE. There are a lot of pictures on Bill's Australian Web Site. If you need any build advice, send me an email and I'll tell you what I can.

One other thing, the frame on a COE can flex behind the cab so make sure you allow for that. That's why the body had springs on the rear mounts.

Your's is going to be very cool.

 

You can't change the location of the rack without upsetting the geometry BUT I think you could rotate it so the input shaft is where you want it. That said, why not tip the rack forward, shorten the steering shaft and install one or two universals to connect them.

 

Even if I did rotate the rack, the universal angles would still be pretty severe.. My original thought was to do exactly that..

 

You could use an third "intermediate" steering joint. You just need to support the shafts strongly. I also think Borgenson makes a double joint that has a tighter bending radius.

 

I was looking at a COE at the Syracuse show and ended up calling the builder for his input. He used a GM ch***is and drivetrain which uses a standard steering box. He runs a really short shaft in the cab than turns pretty much straight down before the firewall and then another universal to connect to the box. You should be able to do the same. If you post your email I'll send you a pic. Unfortunately he wasn't around so I could only snal shots of what I could see but I got a good one of the inside that might give you a better idea of what I'm talking about.

 

I like that idea. The firewall could be a good support the middle shaft. You would just have to watch to not exceed the maximum angles on the steering joints. You would want to rotate your R&P to point forwards.