Thanks. Today was getting the Studebaker back on the road.....next week will be getting the Panel truck back on the road. New double row gear set on, new rear main seal, new core plugs, going for some paint (oddly enough it was painted the same color as my '47 Flathead and I have some left). The engine is pretty fresh, you can see the crosshatching in the lower part of the cylinders and the rear cap bearing is barely scuffed. I'll take some more pics tomorrow.
Ok, some random pics for now. Going back over there this weekend, 1 last car to fix before resuming the '41.
I'm going to keep the Weiand intake for another project, I don't want to drill and tap this one. I'm going to run the C3B, fix the threads, drill/tap it for a pcv (already welded on a baffle on the underside), fill the front water port hole and tap it for the alt bolt. The high gear discs were wiped out in the powerglide, that was all the mud in the pan.
Trans done and engine is almost done (just have to put the core plugs in the rear when it's on the hoist). Floor is done and I'm just doing small stuff that I didn't like while the engine/trans is out. It's taking too long, to do all these small, not worthy of taking pictures things. I cleaned up the firewall, nothing crazy, just shining up and removing the water spotting (1/2 done in pic). Floor after POR15 top coat (you can see the inserts for the trans cover).
No provisions for a welder at my mom's so the hacked area on top of the stock hump area is staying, but I did modify the cover to fit and seal. Made new seals for all the floor panels, made a bracket for the new mechanical brake light switch, re did the pedal panel and made a seal around the steering column. Fixing some of the steering and wiring, then onto wiring up the factory gauges, mounting the small lower dash panel, old Edelbrock intake revival, toss the engine/trans back in, the windshields back in and go driving.
Random pics: Radiator didn't have a drain so I put one in the block drain when I need to use it. Back in after some painting, re bending fuel lines and general cleaning up (still have to trim the glob of solicone on the intake front). Also finished the wiring move, I just mimicked the drivers side on the pass side and ran some additional wires. Cleaned up the old C3B, added a pcv port with a baffle on the underside, welded a chunk back onto the front of the oil filler that was missing. JB welded the aluminum plugs in since there was very little threads left. Also made a plug/spacer for the front water port. It threaded into a water port, JB welded into place, I drilled and taped the center (used a stainless insert). Now I can use the alternator bracket where the old Offy intake just had a threaded hole. Then blasted it and sprayed it with the cast aluminum engine paint: Pcv set up: Powerglide has a new pan............can't hurt right?: Here's the start of the new switch panel, aluminum angle cut to fit and painted with hammer coat. Re routing some of the wiring, not really changing the original build, just working with it:
Front of the intake: I bought this to mate the Stewart Warner fuel sending unit to the stock fuel gauge......hope it works: More pics next weekend.
Still have to finish up the wiring (main wiring done with only 3 colors with 85% being 1 color...fun), put the floor covers on and windshield in. Going to use a right side sending unit from a flathead with some adapters as new sending units can put running temp in the middle of the stock gauge, but head towards cold as is gets warmer. More random pics. Found a new radio bezel from the 60's/70's, so I can sell the Craig intact. New switch panel with warning light. Still not sure if I should have painted it black (hammer coat silver now). Check these out, Gabriel Striders I pulled off of the rear. One side dust cover broke free. Looks like they're adjustable.
Thanks. Yeah Mike, hopefully next weekend....I ran out of parts again. Floor panels back in and tight. Waiting for the temp sender....was supposed to be here Sat....the postal service is slow. Just windshield install, temp sending unit , hood and drive . In hindsight it would have been easier to just make a whole new trans cover, but again working remotely sucks.
Keep forgetting to bring the camera home. Temp sender in, floor back together, windshields in. Fuel bridge setup and running. I'm just waiting for a 80 ohm resistor to make the temp gauge read closer to 1/2 at running temp vs 3/4. Been staying up late at night thinking about the '28 and Hillman parts...........who needs sleep . Trans pan gasket is leaking a little, need to fix that too. I replaced the master again (2nd one from Napa), I've had good luck over the years when replacing a master under the floor. I don't bench bleed the master, just stick it on, fill it and either leave it a few days or tap on the side with a rubber mallet every 15 minutes or so and it's pretty bled in an hour. Most of the air in the piston goes back into the reservoir. I do give it a quick shot at each wheel, but very little air comes out and it has a good pedal. This only works for me if I cap off the lines while I replace the master and I don't touch the pedal the whole time. I have the best luck with leaving it a few days. If your replacing lines (or cylinders) all bets are off, your going to have to do lots of bleeding at that point.
I bought a bag of these dental syringes to see if I could get some sealer in between the glass and rubber on the front windshields.....also between the pinch weld and rubber. Seems to like to leak past there when it gets wet out, I'll see if it works or if the tip is too small.
Some more pics, I would have opted for some floor repair on the truck if it was at home. Cover over shifter hole, it's thicker and now the floor is stiffer (and has a seal under it). Trans cover with a seal under it (home a/c wall unit seal). Floor back together.
Got slowed down by some dental issues. Almost back on the road. I buttoned up the leaky trans gasket (I hope) and let it sit for a week and proceeded to find a small puddle on the floor the next weekend. Trans totally dry.......crap it's coming out of the yoke. It was built with a cast iron pg yoke now into an aluminum pg....yup you guessed it, it has the yoke with an open back......the whole time it was leaking in the driveway nose up was the yoke . I started backing it in the driveway because of it leaking, but after a few years the front pump started leaking. The yoke was worn on the outside and the front u joint was notchy. Took the drivesahft in as it needed to be shortened (the new yoke casting grew a little), new closed yoke, 2 new u joints, shorten and re balance. Going to try to finish it up this weekend......I have ideas for the '28.
Thanks Mike. The syringe worked like a charm. The hood is on and just some fine tuning to do. Already it has a little more pep off the line.......trans rebuild or different intake....feels good. Firmed up the shift a little also. I'm going to call it done as the pics now will look the same as before I started .
The Jalopy Journal
