I've been working on my 41 pickup. It has a 42-up box, which I have been repairing, and have narrowed 3". It also has a 9" ford axle on parallel leaves, a conversion done many years ago when still in the USA. The axle seems to be in the right place, when viewed from above relative to the crossmember, if fact it clashes if I bounce up and down on the rear of the frame. I measure approx 7-1/2" from axle center line to center bolt hole in the original crossmember. I reckon that is about right for axle positioning. Here's the axle setting in place. I have set the bed on the frame, it clears the back of the cab by about 1" and the raised portion in the bed rails seems to follow the shape of the rails. I put a fender in place and the wheel seems too far forward in the arch. It is forward past the front part of the arch, and nowhere near the rear part. Like this: Is this right? It does not look right to me. So here are some questions.. Are the fenders in the same position on a 42-up bed as a up to 41 bed? How much gap should there be between the cab back and the front of the bed? If I want to make this better, I need to move the axle back, or move the bed forward, or move the fenders forward. The axle won't move back without butchering the crossmember, Moving the bed for ward would be difficult, and moving the fenders would look messy. Can anyone offer advice? Mart.
pics didn't make it. look for the bumper stop mounting holes in about the center of the arch in the frame. this is a good starting point for centering the axle
This is just one of those problems that pop up when you mix various year models of suspension design with various year body parts. If it was me, I'd change the rear cross member to a flat one. Then center the wheels in the fender opening. Unless the drive shaft was already done, then I'd move the fenders. It's called hot rodding-if this was easy every one would do it.
Agree...use the rear axel bumper location to correctly position rear axel. You didn't say which rear spring set up you're using,...I use a parallel leaf spring kit, which put it all right where it needs to be. Fenders...These trucks are ***embled by installing FIRST the cab, then bed. Next, install FRONT fenders, and then running boards. The running boards on these trucks are partially supported front and rear by being bolted to the bottom of the fenders. With running boards atch to the frame and front fenders, you will know right away where the rear fenders must be; The rear of the running board must be bolted to the bottom of the front and rear fenders. About truck beds..."Northern Cl***ic Trucks" in Michigan makes a perfect re-pop bed for Ford trucks, from 1938 thru 1941, and 1942 thru 1950 model years. 4T
Easiest would be to move the fenders but i would shorten the bed and move it forward since i think they got to long bed anyway
40FordGuy has the right procedure. Here is a tech I did on a low budget rear spring set up for the 35 to 40 Ford car frames and including 40/41 Ford pickups. Photos should help you see where you should be. I have heard the 42 up bed sides are the same but bed is wider. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=557363
Mart, I see 2 options here. Careful planning and rework the X-member to clear the rear, and then relocate the rear. Done properly, you can rebuild the strength and rigidity back into the modified member. You could POSSIBLY move the X member back, but that is just an ***umption without me able to see things better. Possibly the best option here is to shorten the bed, cut a section out of the front before the fender line and graft it back together centering the wheel in the opening. You have already narrowed it, so you must have the skills to shorten it. You might be able to use the stake pockets to ease the fab work on moving the bed section forward. Possibly moving the fenders foward alone, but i cant see enough in the pictures to see if there are body line issues.
40/41 Trucks use a p***enger car frame. 42-?? use a frame similar to a 53-56 F100 frame 40-41 have 114" wheelbase if i remember correctly I don`t know about 42-??..... I would look for the axle bumper hole , center the rear and modify the bed. Michael
I have a '41 with a 9" Ford rear end. 15" wheels with 235x70 series tires.Here are some pics. I have about the same clearance from the rear end to cross member that you have. I'd say shove the bed as far forward as possible. My bed has about 1 1/2" clearance from the back of the cab.
UPDATE! Thanks for the input, fellas. I just unbolted the bed and moved it forward as far as it will go. I also fitted the fender properly and it's surprising how far you can move the opening forward just by pressing the fender in behind the wheel. My bed front panel is bolted in, because I have dismantled the bed. I unbolted it and turned it backwards. I pushed the bed forward about 1-1/2" and bent the fender and it lines up ok now. I think I can move the axle back about 3/4", so I can then move the bed back again to 3/4" forward from where I first had it. Have to re-do the mounts, but as it is the wrong bed to begin with, they are all home made anyway. I don't have any running boards, other than some from an incorrect year of truck that have been modified to fit. So, thanks for the input, I think I now have a solution. Here's a pic: Thanks again for the help. Mart.
Do you have a 112" wheelbase set up. Measure from from front axle centerline back for rear end placement and go from there to see what is up.
Most old cars never had the axle centred in the rear fenders. As the suspension moved and the spring flattened the axle would move back and up slightly. I personally would first check the wheel base and secondly move the axle back only if required, even if it meant modifying the rear springs so that wheel was centred in rear fenders. Can the rear box be easily fixed or replicated? You may not need to increase tail shaft length or rear flexible brake line. I'd leave OEM cross members to save yourself some work, they give your ch***is strength and rigidity than it needs. I've seen them flattened to look OEM and give sufficient clearance. I just like all OEM panels the way they left the factory, fenders, running boards etc but that's me. From an aesthetics point of view it would only enhance the look to centre the wheels. My 0.02 cents worth.
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