Projects 1941 Studebaker Champion Sedan Gasser Resurrection

After a few measurements, I made a wooden stand that put the engine close to where I wanted it.

 

I try not to buy parts until I need them, but these came in handy at $150.

 

I ordered the fat fendered Speedway headers and proceeded to cut them up. I’ll be cutting more and adding a different collector eventually.

 

The mock up engine crate jig is a good one...Love these Studes...nice build..

 

The only concern with a solid mount for stuff like that engine is that the chassis is on springs and tires (not solid). Adding weight to the body/chassis or even a tire gone low could mess with stuff. @Chucky seems to be a pretty handy guy, so I doubt this is a problem for him. More a caution for anyone emulating this.

 

This picture was taken today. I removed everything up front and then split the body from the chassis. Most of the welds on the front axle were completed. Lower shock mounts, steering stabilizer mount, and steering stops are done. Holding off on spring pads (only tacked) until full weight mock up.

 

Here’s the 327 I grabbed from a drug addict on FB marketplace. It was an experience I’d rather not repeat, but it was a “smoking deal”.

 

Although it looked good, I like to check things over. So, I tore it apart.

 

What pistons are those?

 

I’ve always wanted a Stude like that, especially a two door sedan, I just never found the right car at the right time. Looking forward to seeing where this goes.

 

@lumpy 63
The pistons are Keith Black hyper’s. I have them bagged / soaked in lube right now so I don’t have the exact part number.

 

You may already know this but you need to open the top ring end gap with those.... Make sure you check it Chucky.

 

I have a 40 champ available if you’re serious, I’m in So. Cal

 

I have a ‘40 Champion business coupe. Tri5 rear end, non posi, ratio unknown. Front suspension and steering stock. Frame is uncut. 6” fire wall recess done with a torch. SW gages. Body is straight. Appears to be original paint with much red primer. Trunk floor
is rusty, some rust in front floor boards. No title, bill of sale. Vin tag matches hidden number on frame. Was going to install a sb 360 mopar engine which is included in sale.
Looking to get 2500.00 for it.

 

My grandfather was a Studebaker fan, when he passed there were three of them sitting in front of his home. He’d drive one until it wasn’t economical to repair, then get another and do the same. He wasn’t a hot rodder but he was a mechanical genius, self taught and he could fix or build most anything. If he were still around he would like the direction of this build.

 

@Balljoint I’m humbled to hear my simple home brewed thread invokes fond memories for others.

The plan is to head to north Minneapolis tomorrow for a variety of steel products. I’m looking forward to a complete redesign of the front of the chassis. Here’s a close up color photo of the Speedway shackle mount. The chassis is up-side-down in this picture. Most Speedway parts need close inspection and often times modification, but these mounts are terrible. You can clearly see how not “centered” they are, WTF? Not to mention the leaf springs were 3/16” difference in length unloaded, and stayed different lengths even when loaded. I ended up ordering a 3rd spring which netted me 2 springs within a 16th of each other.

 

Flashing back to my initial mock-up…I used exhaust clamps to mount the Speedway column. The column drop is 2 threaded rod couplings welded together and ground smooth.

 

Those Speedway basic steering columns are great. I just put a longer one in my Austin to improve the driving position. I like that intake manifold too, taller than most. Great progress.

 

I welded high grade fine thread nuts to the steering box bracket, in place of the provided spacers. Since the bracket is 1/4” thick, it allows the bolts to completely pass through the welded nuts. The coarse threads in the box itself were drilled out and the cheap button head Allen bolts, that hold on the cover, were swapped to hex head bolts. After I adjusted the big nut, which often is too tight (ruins the bearings), the box went from not smooth to…oh my goodness, that is one smooth steering box. YMMV.

 

There’s a lot going on in this picture…Adjustable steering stops were set to give 1.5 steering wheel revolutions in either direction, which is slightly less than the capacity of the box. A traditional VW steering damper is installed with a single mini bike handle bar mount (clamped the tie rod perfectly). The calipers were modified (grinder) to allow the brake hoses to be installed up-side-down. The hoses are angled at the banjo bolt and I wanted them to point slightly up, instead of slightly down. The double sided steering arm was tweaked to allow proper caliper movement. And, you can see the shackles were mounted beyond the end of the factory frame. I’ve recently extended the frame by 6”.

 

This thread is now mostly “caught up” and chassis mods have begun. The cool weather makes for excellent working conditions. Please keep in mind this is a low budget build, so no frame table for me. But, I have saw horses, several levels and a speed square.

 

The driveshaft pass-through passes through the cross-member at a slight angle. I wanted it done before I cut the front of the frame apart. The frame is up-side-down in these photos.

 

Someone prior to me installed a 2.5” square front crossmember. The factory frame rails are close to 2.5” tall X 1.5” wide. It bothered me that they used a crossmember that was actually larger than the frame rail. The feng shui was all wrong. I initially left it in place, regretted it, and now it’s gone. My new crossmember is 2” X 1.5” which allowed for an easy weld to the new 2.5” X 1.5” frame extensions, which make the frame 6” longer than stock. I went ahead and changed the shackles to longer, more robust shackles that use all bronze bushings. Finally, I made the front shackle mounts more precise than the Speedway junk and they bolt to the frame for now, in case I need to move them.

 

A 3/8” “HEAVY” hex nut accepts an 11/16” wrench, unlike the normal 9/16” wrench size. Using a step bit, I enlarged some of the factory body mount holes to 3/4”. Mild hammer blows to the sacrificial bolt will “press” the hex nut into place. The extra material allows easier welding and this can be done after boxing the frame.

 

Great build.

Now I want one too.

 

I made 3 “pins” out of 1/2” bolts. The plug welded pins tie the steering box bracket to the outside surface of the frame rail. Not super beautiful, but the bracket isn’t coming off…ever. Obviously the plug welds aren’t done in the photo, but they are now.

 

The frame has some damage from days gone by. There was a notch cut by a torch that I can only assume was for exhaust clearance. When my welds turn out a bit ugly, I just recall how they looked before and then I feel better.

 

Front end of the frame is looking much cleaner and tidier now.

How much do you expect the front leaf spring to flatten out once they are fully loaded?

One suggestion would be to pick up a small digital level like so. You don't have the same length to work with as a two or four-foot spirt level, but you always know the exact angle, instead of trying to decide exactly how close the bubble is to centered:




I have used mine so much in one year's time-- it's one of those tools I wish I had purchased long ago. The magnetic base is extremely handy, too, especially if you are using it in combination with a piece of steel angle or similar to check for level over a longer distance.

 

I think the springs will grow in length about 2”. I set the shackles about -1” from plumb. I’m in uncharted territory, as I find no other examples using my selected parts. I’m committed to re-work if necessary to get this set-up “right”. I’ve seen 3 examples recently on the HAMB where the shackle angle was very bad. Besides re-work, there’s options I’ve pondered including adding a leaf or two. Also, I’m kind of a fan of those cheap coil-over shocks the VW guys use for a little lift. Think JC Whitney. Either way, the frame is about 70% finished and I will be doing a full weight mock-up. Looking forward to hanging all the front sheet metal, as I’ve never seen this car fully dressed.

Note to self…buy digital level.

 

The frame welding is 95% done! I plan to get some paint on it and then take the assembly process further.