My gaps at the cowl sides and the rear quarter vary from .120 to .150 and I am happy with that. At the top of the door at the radius to the A pillar the gap goes down to .020. The only remedy I see is using a Porta-Power and push the A pillar outwards or grind off the hemmed edge of the door then weld the edge and regrind to fit. I’m looking for feedback. Thanks in advance for the replies.
I'm not a body guy, but I'd lean towards cutting the door, then welding & grinding a new edge on it. Using a porta-power to move the A-pillar seems like it might create unwanted secondary effects. Are ALL the other gaps on THAT door consistently 0.120-0.150"? Or could you shim the door?
I know this won't help but gaps on these old cars are never very consistent, especially with the rounded bodies of the 40's. On my 47 ford coupe someone had replaced the floors without bracing the body up and there was no gap at the bottom and about an 1/8" at the belt line at the cowl. I actually had to cut the rocker in half and then use a porta power to push the lower door frame apart until I got the same gap up and down the door. Tacked the rocker back together and then repeated the procedure on the passenger side. After that it was good and stayed put. I think on the A pillar, if everything else is lined up ok the taking the edge off the door and rewelding it should work ok.
Yep factory gaps are terrible, even on later model stuff, take your pick-60's,70's,80's etc. You have 2 options, cut and fit doors or cut the body right at the door/body corner edge, then take like a wood garden spike and with a hammer use the wooden spike like a punch and work the inside cut edge gently and slowly until the body door jam edge matches the door then mod body skin right there to match door jam and weld and dress... I'd probably due the second one..... ....
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