Projects 1948 Chevrolet fleetmaster

Over the course of today, I went through this thread....I'm stunned. Man...you do great work and prove that you don't need a shit pile of tools and a fancy shop to end up with a great ride. This is too damn cool. My new, favorite thread!! Keep up the good work. This is what it's all about!!!

 

thanks monkeyspunk, you've been a real help. all this I did not know but glad I know now. so from the pumpkin its open to the torque tube where it drains back into it from the oakie bushing? im getting ready to fill the pumpkin with gear oil, I fill till it weeps out the filling hole right? or do I stop just under it? I wouldn't want to make it leak into the drums. your method sounds good, I will make that my routine for my tranny and rear end. doesn't sound being cheap, sounds smart since the oakie bushings aren't dependable even when new.

and im going to do the same with the transmission, I fill till it weeps the fluid right? is the fluid ran to the ball too from the transmission where if its not tight itll leak? or is the ball its own little lube type chamber? sorry for all the questions, don't want any little surprises to come about right when I think im done and get ready to drive it. if so is the ball lubed with grease or fluid?

and thanks bugsy, glad you enjoyed it so far and hope you picked up a few things you can use and do yourself. its not the money, this is a budget build, and its not the know how, I try to show the way. its just the time and motivation, if you can work with that then youre set =) a lot of this build was my first time trying something like spraying flat paint (which turned out incredibly easy, inexpensive and quick with great results), in line engines, column shifts, woodgrain, 6 volt conversion, and older style brakes and other stuff. most old cars the work needed is common among years and makes and is very baisic. you just have to take that leap of faith, do it yourself. youll be surprised, its not as hard as you think

and o yea monkeyspunk, very very close even closer now. today I dropped in the radiator and hoses, double checked all the bolts on the shifter and engine bay, changed the oil, cleaned the spark plug tips, checked all the wiring on the plugs, all the links and springs, all hoses and lines going to engine, checked all my suspension and steering components, im almost read to go. all I need is put in water, connect a battery and it starts =D I know I have to check the fluids in the pumpkin like you said, but im sure itll be ok to drive it around the block before that

here is my only issue, looks like a small one so im not too worried. bled my brakes today, master cylinder is working great it pushed fluid to all 4 wheels just fine, you cant tell in the hose but its full of fluid, no bubbles



but when I was done, I got a slight leak in the rear brakes, where the line connects to the cylinder. it was getting dark so I couldn't check but im not sure if I tightened them up all the way, or if I just needed to put in new copper seal washers or if I forgot to put them in. but looks like an easy fix just glad its the rear wheels with the issue not the front which are more important they don't leak. but im sure will be an easy fix. I work tomorrow so no progress, and im not taking the car to route 66 reunion in Ontario but im still going that's for sure so no progress Saturday unless I come home really motivated after seeing those cars. but God willingly and if theres no more issues, by sunday afternoon I should be driving the car around the block a few times for the first time. I just hope nothing goes wrong like the engine I bought not being as good as the seller told me it was. it turns just fine with the crank so its definitely not seized, It was the first thing I checked when I bought it. but I mean like it having a bad head gasket or a knock from the inside. guy guaranteed me its a good motor, guess ill find out sunday

 

Just killer man, as always.

 

hey man I just joined and found your thread i'm building a 47 fleetline 2 door and saw a lot of things that I can use when going through your thread can't wait to see the finished car

 

Yes the ball is filled with the same gear oil as the trans & rear end. 90W straight. I'd throw a 1/2 pint in there if you can and them button it up. You can also fill it up once its buttoned up using the speedo drive hole in the side. Its really extra precaution once you separate the trans and have it all apart. Its to ;lube the U-joint at the beginning...just as much as you can without making a huge mess. No grease, just the gear oil.

You're correct on filling the rear and trans. you want the oil level to be right at or below the fill plugs. A little RTV silicone on the threads help if they're really weepy or leak.

Something I forgot: Here's instructions on adjusting the torque tube U-joint collar before you button it up for good. I had mine too tight and there was major 'gear noise' because of it. Backing it off, I got it to quiet down. Still dribbles oil though but I guess that's the way it is.
________

[SIZE=+2]Universal Ball Housing Adjustment[/SIZE]
Proper adjustment of the universal joint ball housing on closed driveline cars & trucks from 1929-1954 is critical for good operation. This type of joint, if improperly adjusted, may result in oil leakage if too loose, or drivetrain noise if too tight. Whenever the universal joint is opened for any service operation, or should a leak at this point be experienced, the adjustment should be performed with the ball joint collar oil seal (cork) removed. Attempted adjustment with this cork seal in place, whether new or old seal, will give a false adjustment.
The following procedure should be followed in making this adjustment:
1. On passenger cars or 1/2 ton pickups remove universal joint ball from torque tube and on 3/4 ton models, remove intermediate universal joint yoke and dust shield and then remove bearing support bracket and rubber cushion from propeller shaft housing.
2. Wash the universal ball thoroughly in cleaning solvent, then inspect it for roughness. If ball is rough, smooth up with fine emery paper or if deeply scored, replace it.
3. Using four new universal ball collar shims as a starting point, install universal ball and collar. Tighten the four attaching bolts to 8-12 ft. lbs. torque. NOTE: Do not install ball joint collar oil seal {cork) at this time.
4. With attaching bolts tight, place both hands on the universal ball housing assembly at the end of the housing. If the assembly can be moved and is a snug fit, the torque ball is properly adjusted.
NOTE: If the ball housing assembly cannot be moved by hand or is too loose, remove the ball collar attaching bolts and remove shims to tighten or add shims to loosen until proper adjustment is secured.
5. Remove universal ball housing. Install new gaskets at the back of the retaining collar and the back of the ball housing. Hang the shims over the ball housing until ready to install the U-joint. Note: 1929-33 ball housings with a fixed seal at the back will require FS-4356 O-ring seal for replacement. To install use a screwdriver to remove any cork that remains between the two flat washers. Clean the housing. Lube and press the O-ring into the back of the housing between the two flat washers and install onto the torque tube. ​

I'll bet the brake line just needs a fitting tightened, and hope you can get out for a test drive soon!

Cheers!

 

thanks monkeyspunk, will do! have you serviced the ball housing on yours? do I have to pull the tranny out since its already mounted and bolted in to block, driveshaft/torque tube and tranny mount?

and as for the back brakes, when I put on the line end to the cylinders in the back, I neglected putting in the brass bushing. I thought they were just like washers or spacers or nut locks, not necessary. I was wrong, the brass bushings actually mold to the grooves on both sides of the line end block. so I had no seal and leaked like crazy. but its fixed, and bled. was just a 35 cent brass bushing missing. also bled the front brakes as well and replaced a 1/4 T junction block that leaked a bit cause I stripped it on one hole. spent 1 1/2 hours hunting it down but finally found it and replaced it. so now brakes are all done, adjusted, fully bled and working great! very tight pedal, only about an inch of travel till it gets stiff and when up on the jack and brake is pressed, as hard as I try each wheel is fully locked =D

so radiator in, all lines ran, valve cover gasket replaced, brakes done, water is in, all is ready to go! tomorrow just put gas in the tank and suck the hose till it reaches the pump, put the hose back on the pump, drop in the battery and its ready to start and drive!

so now I go out in the back yard, this is the sight. the aftermath of a car build spot





where is the car? it sits here for the night till tomorrow where god willingly and nothing go wrong, will take its maiden ride. car has not come out of that back yard in over 3 years, spent 2 years 8 months rotting away itll I started it 4 months ago. so in 3+ years, its finally pulled out the back













its dirty, will get a washing too tomorrow before the drive. had a neighbor walk up and say "damn you have that one too? I thought you just had the 65 and 59? you just buy it?". said nope, built it back there but its been put away and tucked away all the way in the back so long nobody even knew it was back there. im telling you it never came out the back of the back yard since the first day I pulled it in, not even the front yard or driveway its always sat in one spot the whole time.

god I hope nothing goes wrong. getting up early to set the battery in, put gas in it and just link up the throttle and choke cable. I know I put them in, but the choke I set fully open right and the throttle fully closed and adjust/pull just a bit to keep the engine running quietly right? well ill figure all that out in the morning, cant wait! all that's left after this is just install the accessories I was planning to, but as far as the build I will be done just wrap up the rewire of the dash and lights. o and put on whitewalls and paint those rims red

 

I took a red shop towel and bunched it up around the filler neck and pressurized the fuel tank with my air hose till fuel came out rather than sucking on it.....ha...

Good luck on your first trip!! I think whitewalls with some nice hubcaps will fit that better than red wheels. Of course I love how the impala wheels look after it was all said and done...

 

Gallogiro: car looks good outside its 'workspace' and its ready for launch. Keep us posted on your success. Its going to be one big grin ear to ear once you roll it down the boulevard.

I did the ball stuff when I bolted mine in, but no biggie. It still leaks trans oil and makes noise. That's Chevy's way of saying its working ok.

My only other bit of advice, it the motor's been sitting for a while, pop the rocker cover off and dowse the valves with either oil or some ATF and pop them with a soft brass or plastic hammer to make sure they're all free. A lot of these motors seem to have stuck valves after sitting. A little time and some oil is cheap insurance you'll have an easy startup. I can't remember if this motor is a known runner or not.

Good luck with the test drive, buddy. I know she'll be a sweetie and fire up on the first try!

 

gallogiro

You do some damn fine an impressive work !!!!!!!!! scrubba

 

Amazing thread! Love your "just do it" attitude!

 

thanks guys =)

well today I went to Costco and bought a brand new battery, topped off all fluids, hooked up all the wires I need to start the car, and put gas in it for the first time



sat inside and hit the starter pedal, and everything was looking good, it turned just fine, there was spark, starter doing its job but just wouldn't start. then I get out to look, no gas in the filter bowl. so I go out and syphon the gas myself

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WvCPKKg89C0&feature=youtu.be

so theres gas going to the pump, get back in, still no gas in the filter bowl. turns out I have a bad fuel pump. just thank god its only 40 bucks at autozone but I had to order it it comes in Thursday at 9am. so for now its a waiting game, sorry guys no start up and drive today =( but its very close, its all it needs is the fuel pump and that thing is installed in 10 min so as soon as I get it its on!

also guys, im not sure if its wired right at the distributor cap. anyone know the firing order at the cap and the order along the block from front to back? want to make sure the plugs are wired correct I don't want any more hangups Thursday. sorry guys

 

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/a..._session_id/69043767800a0d00a6c03cc8ca7eaf5d/

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The above link should help with firing order and distributor wiring. What year 235 is yours again?

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thanks monkeyspunk. its a 216, 40s. im kinda bummed out I really wanted it running today. but atleast its a quick fix just have to wait on the part. im just glad the engine turned just fine and the starter did its job fine, I rebuilt it right. also is there a way to adjust the shifting, the lower 2 gears on the tree have a lot of room when popped in gear, but the reverse and 2nd gear up top have hardly any room. it pops into gear, but with just a minor tap goes back into neutral because its only about an inch of play. does that sound right?

 

I pick up my fuel pump in the a.m. so ill be back on track. hopefully nothing else comes up. since its a newly rebuilt car, I was told its normal to have a few issues till its all fine tuned, no car turns on just fine on first start after a fresh rebuild.

have a question, the 216 I have was already fully converted to 12 volt with the dist/coil/wires/plugs/alt baisically a 12 volt 216 motor. do I still need to run the ignition resistor/coil from the ignition to the coil? I heard yes I heard no. whats the worst that could happen if I run without it and don't need it and if I run with it and don't need it?

 

If You have point type distributor You have to run resistor. If not, You'll boil the coil. It should be wired in that way, that when in normal operation it receives about 9V through ignition resistor, only when starting engine it should receive full 12V to make startup easier with better spark.

 

Have a look at the part number on the coil- if it ends in "R", then you will need a resistor. These 216's did not have a resistor originally, I have rewired and converted to 12 volt without a resistor, and no problems. Also, if you are still using the 6volt starter , it will spin just fine on 12 volts, and with a good 12 volt coil you should be OK.

 

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http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1942_47/4247csm714.htm



Other adjustment posts from the web...



One


Two

Three





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thanks guys. got the plug wiring in, new fuel pump in working fine, see theres fuel in the bowl now



got everything set, put in the battery and hit the starter pedal. started to just turn then for a quick second I guess when it got gas into the carb finally it sent some and fired up. but for a second. when I went to look, there was gas sprayed over the valve cover and manifold. which brings me to problem #3

the rod that holds the throttle, on the outside when I move the accelerator it spits gas out of the other side where the rod sits



with as much gas as it spit out, theres no way im starting it itll just ignite. im so glad I caught that, I would have turned it on and with the excitement just drove off and eventually would have ignited off the exhaust manifold. well now it seems its the last issue to take care of. glad its a simple one, bench work or replace. but that quick second it ignited and ran, for that one second I felt like I was just inches away from home plate. so again Im sorry guys, guess the problem will be addressed till Saturday and hopefully have it going by sunday on its first drive. but for a second, It was alive so im there, just fine tune now. even Disneyland when It first opened half of there rides didn't work. the odds are of it turning on at first try weren't good, but not bad as we can see. almost there guys, cope with me

 

If I remember right and could be wrong but I think there should be some type of adjuster screw there-which would explain gas shooting all over the place....if I'm wrong sorry, and keep at it bro you are so very close!!!

 

almost there take your time and make sure its right . no need to burn it down right as its finished . sorry can't help on the carb situation as I haven't worked on a Pot Roddy in ages . but being that low it shouldn't be liquid it should be vapor . look for drips on the outside of the carb .

 

it is a small screw like this

 

o wow thanks guys. I will check that screw. and yea I was just thinking of how it definitely would have caught on fire had I not noticed it and drove off. and knowing me I would have not just drove up and down the street but to the gas station then to in n out because the cops around here know who I am ive had a few stop at my house when I was building the 59.

even one I didn't know I was zipping through my neighborhood testing the motor so I was speeding, the car literally had no front end just the radiator core with the radiator and the motor and no exhaust open headers, and I was sitting on a lawn chair to drive it. I was a block away when I drove up to him and realized I didn't know him I freaked out, car was definitely not street legal and not registered so no plates. he stared at me as we passed so I slowed to a crawl to explain why I was driving it and he slowed down, looked at the car, and just kept driving straight. and I KNOW he heard me speeding on the open headers that's why he turned on to my street.

but with that confidence I know I would have drove this car like if it was registered and done and would have gone far, nowhere close to home or my water hose to put out the car had it ignited. I know for a fact had I not noticed it it would have gone horribly wrong, the gas was spit everywhere so im not complaining I wasn't able to drive it yesterday

 

PLEASE dont use your garden hose on a gas fire- you,ll spread it and just make it worse- I did that stupidly years ago when I was test running an engine on the ground- and reached for the hose- and spread burning gas onto the shed wall! lucky it was steel and didn,t burn. It would be a damn shame to see your 48 end up a piece of toast. I have a fire extinguisher in my cars, it,s cheap insurance.

 

got it, thanks roadster. Im buying a fire extinguisher before I try to start it again. but it could have gone horribly bad. no work today, while I was getting ready to rebuild my carter yf carb to have as a backup, I went online to take a quick look and found some whitewall, and I SCORED! picked some up for 200 bucks. denman 7.50 16 wide whitewalls the whitewall is 4+ inches. 2 are brand new cause they were side mount spares off an early 40s car and the other two have less than 500 miles on them they were off a show car. he wanted 175 I think it was, I gave him 200
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/pts/4097314948.html





I don't know how much I saved but im happy cause two are brand new the other are almost new. I was going to go this week too to performance plus tires to get my whitewalls. whats funny is the whole time I was on the freeway I was on the phone with him, I was racing someone there for them from hemet some girl he said but I was there first. mounting them this week

 

I am very happy right now, saved a lot for very good tires 2 new 2 almost new. that's why I didn't mind giving him more than he had listed. very cool guy, heavy hitter real builder. these are some of the cars in his shop at the time



two of those are his, the convertible just sold for $95000







great guy, that's what I like about building, you get to meet great people

 

now the question, powdercoat the rims red or black?

 

Please for the love of all that's good in the world don't go red!!! Be different and maybe a darker brown, it will make the wide whites pop more and it will accent the body and woodgrain so much better!!!

 

that's why I asked, I never see black but see red a lot and I started this car off different than average. I know the rims on my 59 are red, but im putting on hubcaps so you wont even notice what color they are, going to do floater hubcaps on the 59, this one the color will show except for the small center hubcap and maybe beauty ring

 

I could easily woodgrain the rims, but I don't know if that's just doing too much already with it, overboard that's why I havent