Projects 1948 Diamond T pickup tow truck project journal.

The cab marker light vs no cab marker light debate has been ended, with my wifes rather strong sentiment that it doesn't need any more ornamentation! I guess I agree. And, the feed wire for them is tucked above the wiper motors if "we" change our minds...

Brian

 

Well you won't have to worry about them leaking now.

 

She also vetoed fender maker lights, which the '38's used. Same ones Buick/Olds used.
After some thought, I agree with her. She is usually right.

Brian

 

About those Dodge hubcaps - think you could round up another pair and replace the ram with a Diamond T logo?


Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad

 

That's the plan. A friend is an engraver, I'm going to have him make centers, black over brass, and engrave the Diamond T logo. Then, the Ram log is going away, leaving just the lip, and I'll have Diamond T hubcaps! I have two chrome ones, but have to get busy and buy a complete set. They're on eBay all time, I just gotta spring for some.

 

I vetoed the fender marker lights on ours too. It came with them originally, but I think they are cheesy. I think they deter from the lovely lines of the fenders

Karin

 

I actually really like the fender lights, but nothing exceeds like excess, they say.

Yesterday I fired it up and pulled it outdoors in the snow to let the engine come up to temp and make sure the cooling fan would come on, and things were OK.

Turned out, things are NOT okay. After a few minutes, the temp gauge came up, and kept going up, then it started stumbling, running rough and quit. And then wouldn't start, as if the VAP were active.

Fire up, then immediately die.

This couldn't be good, so I winched it back into the shop. Of course, then it started right up. I thought maybe the engines original plug wires were breaking down, after all, they're 11 years old, and I've had 'em off a couple times.

So, with much difficulty, I replaced them all, along with the plugs, and sure enough, it started an ran perfectly. Then, as soon as it warmed up, it quit again.

What the...?

I put my hand on the radiator, and it was cold. The temp gauge was on 220. Again, what the...?

After some thought, I believe the thermostat is stuck shut. These LS ECM's will just shut the engine down if the temp gets too high before bad things happen. If it's not the 'stat, then mice have made an abode in the radiator while it was on the shelf, or in the truck not sealed up, and packed insulation and crap in, which is now plugging things up. That happened with my '48 Pontiac when I put the LT1 in it, requiring a half a day of flushing the fiberglass insulation out of the radiator and endgine. That's a little more work than simply swapping the 'stat, since the fenders have to be loosened and the grill shell and hood have to come off, but it's better than chasing an electrical gremlin.

So, a little hiccup, but I'm confident once that's handled, it'll be ready to go.

Brian

 

at least you can quickly test the thermostat to see if that's the issue. Hopefully it is! I had a car that would NOT heat up, no matter what. It kept too cool to defog the windows even. Figured it must be the thermostat - and when I took it apart, the thermostat was in PIECES! That was a first! Installed a new one, and all was well

Karin

 

I agree. I do like cab lights only if they were original.

 

In a tall truck like that, clearance lights provide a useful feature of helping figure out if you will fit underneath something. So figuring something to replicate that function might be worth pondering.


Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad

 

Awesome looking truck. Congrats. It shows that hard work pays off.

 

nice build

 

I've been pulling my hair out the last couple days with the truck. Filled the radiator, and with MUCH difficulty, "burped" it and let it warm up in the driveway. After several minutes, it started running ragged, and finally quit. Wouldn't start. Let it set a few minutes, started, seemed to run OK, so I headed down the drive and down the road. Got a mile and a half to the corner, and it stalled turning around. Wouldn't start. Great.

A guy in a manure hauling truck stopped and helped me push it back into the church parking lot (he had too, I was blocking the road) and it started right up. Drove home, running poorly, and began trying to figure out what the problem was.

This morning, it wouldn't start at all. I borrowed a fuel pressure gauge from the local garage, and discovered to my surprise that the NEW fuel pump is delivering not the 60 lbs it's supposed to, but FIVE. The device I borrowed has a fuel resevior and fittings to hook an air line to, so I did that, dialed up 60 lbs, and the truck fired right up and ran perfectly.

Now, it's out to the shop to pull the box floor so I can get to the tank to pull the pump and fix, or replace, that. I have another GM orignal pump, known to be good, that should interchange with the pump housing in the tank, so we'll see. Hopefully, it'll work.

Brian

 

things like that are frustrating! At least you got it figured out what the problem is (fairly quickly it sounds?)

 

If it was easy, everyone would be doing it. Thats what sets us apart from rational human beings. Thats my excuse anyway. lol

 

I'm embarassed by the REAL reason it wasn't running, but in my defense, I had just dumped 4 gallons of gas in it. And gored myself on the steer horns on the front of my Dually doing it. If this makes no sense, but you need to know what goes on when I'm left unsupervised, just click on the link in the signature line and go to "Cool McCool's Garage".

On the plus side, I figured how to fix the fuel filler so it doesn't pee gas down the side of the fender. So, really, it's a good thing I pulled the box floor.

That's what I'm telling myself.

And that is why I could never do this for a living...

Brian

 

What a fantastic truck! LOVE IT!

 

Thanks Kev, although it remains to be seen whether I'll be able to drive it further away from home than I'm willing to walk. I'm REASONABLY confident that once I get it buttoned back up this morning, that I'll have it licked. Still have to figure out how to vent the steam lines on the heads and the overflow from the surge tank, 'cause the radiator has no ports in the lower, now the upper, tank but I'll figure it out eventually.

 

the guy on the show gears shows how to drill and tap for a fitting just above belt tentioner area , on a raised round cast area , we done on a ls swap worked fine used a right angled brass fitting , watch to not drill too close to throttle linkage bell crank or you cannot turn fitting around to tighten , we had to remove throttle body small mistake tho.

 

I forgot to tell that the little vent (steam pipe) hose ran to this fitting. great build love your work and detail.

 

Thanks Paul p, that's an idea.

 

Baddest Mutha hump'n truck on the planet. Here it is, out, ready for the muffler shop, and minor detailing.

Wait till it's polished.

 

Oh yeah!

 

Great thread and sweet truck. Spotted this one on Thursday and thought you might appreciate.

 

I better update my build thread with the latest pics, even though yesterday I celebrated (OK, bragged) by posting pics of the truck in the yard with the trailer on the back.

I've driven it about 20 miles (unlicenced and un-insured), and once when it quit in the middle of the intersection down the road from home, the local police officer helped me push it to the shoulder, never asked about the lack of licence plate, mufflers, or insurance papers. I did have my licence on me, but he didn't ask for that either, probably too winded pushing to think...

Anyhow, today I'm thinking of going scrounging to find a "Y" pipe from a late model Silverado or Sierra so as to run both pipes down the left side of the chassis. The battery is smack in the middle of the "X" member on the left, the fuel lines run inside the left rail, and I made a running board support without a "hump" for pipe clearance that'll make tucking the left hand pipe up in the frame a challenge. On both my '48 convert and '51 wagon, I made crossovers using factory (they're stainless) "y" pipes, cut apart with the cats out, and ran duals down the right side.

I like the looks from the back of twin pipes right together, and I think there's room to kick two over the rear axle and straight out the back.

Here's the truck out, running, and hitched to the trailer.

 

After the recent Lokar shifter and nuetral safety switch FAIL, resulting in some "customizing" of the front sheet metal, I drove the truck 20 miles without crashing into anything to "Muffler Man" in Kalamazoo for exhaust. It's getting Flowmasters with turnouts just ahead of the rear fenders. No room over the axle around the shocks, brake and fuel lines, the gas tank and springs to run them out the back, which was my first choice.

It ran GREAT, rewarding after all the hassle and trouble with the fuel pump issue, and is comfortable to drive. I was pleased.

Pictures this afternoon when I pick it up.

Brian

 

2 1/2 hours and $389.00 later, duals with flowmasters on 2 1/2 aluminized pipe! It sounds SA-WEEEET! I wanted the pipes run all the way back, but the engineer (me) didn't allow enough room over the axle by the time air shocks, brake lines, fuel lines, spring hangers, a HUGE gas tank, and Reese hitch were added. So, the pipes dump out just ahead of the rear wheels under the running board.

I really liked the slash cut tips with the rolled edge, although I was disappointed they didn't have 'em in stainless. They (Muffler Man in Kalamazoo at Riverview and Gull) can order them, which I may have them do.

For now, I'm so happy with it I don't even care about the damage to the fender and bumper. My buddy John, from whom I got the '51 wagon, gave me a quickie estimate on the repair, between $4,500 and $5K, depending on how much incidental stuff, like maybe a radiator, to fix it. I saw 30 hours, he shook his head and said, "More like 80 plus the bumper, when you count aligning the bumper brackets, realigning the front sheet metal and spotting in all chips where the hood hit the cowl."

In addition, we found a ding on the passenger door where it DID hit the woodstove. So that's about 4 hours to repair/refinish too. Sigh.

Well, it's insured, so we'll see what happens Monday when Hagerty's adjuster comes out.

It runs GREAT now that the fuel pump issue (too low fuel pressure) has been fixed. It's VERY healthy. I need now to refill the cooling system, replace the thermostat (took it out when I initially started it and had trouble "burping" the system) and we're good to go.

Brian

 

Wow Brian

That has turned out awesome.

Can't wait to check it out in person. Are you planning on a road trip to Sins of Steel?

If not I hope to see it at Relix Riot

Martyn

 

We'll be in Milford at the Tin Can Tourist trailer rally that weekend Martyn, which is close, but not time to go to SOS. Darn. LOL, I'll be at Relix with it, but I'll have to get some 16" tires to go on the steelies or I'll have to park with the street rods!

Brian

 

Kim and I drove the Diamond T out to dinner last night. How great to be able to jump in it and go! Kim said, "Wow, this is fast! And it sounds great! And it's comfortable!" Nice to have the wifey's seal of approval! Waiting for the appraiser to call this morning, and we can make it smooth and shiney soon.

Brian