No need to go to the trouble of drilling and tapping, vacuum is the same betweeen the carbs' base and current vacuum source. You should be able to get what you need at your local auto parts store and plumb in to your current vacuum port. Incidentally, by advancing your initial timing you did what your vacuum advance will do. At idle, engines run leaner than at higher rpms and it takes more time to burn the fuel mixture. (less gas, less boom). Thus the need for more spark advance. After you get your vacuum advance set up, just set your timing to factory specs. You can always play around with it of course, but I'm betting that once you get your vacuum advance working and factory timing dialed in, your motor will start with barely a spin on the starter and purr like a kitten. Btw, I just went back and reviewed earlier shots of your carb setup. Are you planning on hooking up the choke on the center carb? I realize you're in the Florida panhandle, or LA (lower Alabama as my brother in law in Pensacola calls it), but I'm sure it will get cold enough to need a choke sometimes.
Thanks Eli, when I get the chassis back in my garage (it's currently in storage to give me room in my garage to work on some of the body parts) I'll port the vacuum advance in. As for the carb choke, yes I am planning on connecting it up. You are correct that it doesn't get too cold here but we do have a few nights during the winter where temps get in to the low 30s. btw - if you're ever in P'cola to visit your family you're more than welcome to come by and bench race.
The cab is now at a shop for body and paint work. Before I took it I had take some pictures of my daughter's artwork from 7 years ago.
Catching up, Dave. So cool on the start-up. Little mechanical engineering thoughts along the way, beaucoup plumbing because you bought the wrong radiator (hard-earned experience, brother!), just loving this.
I drove to Mississippi for the weekend to visit my parents and to pick up a 52 F2 parts truck. I've been friends with the gentleman who owned for years so it was great to visit with him and his wife. I even talked my wife into riding up with me! It was great spending the day with her. I love it when classic cars follow me home. Back at my parents house.
There are several parts that I was missing for the '48 and I was able to get this '52 for less then buying the needed parts individually. I will be using the inner fenders, door opening mechanism, door weather strip clips, cowl vent cover, ashtray mechanism, and what ever else I may need along the way. I also plan to look at the running board support brackets to see if I can use them to repair the ones for the '48. I agree it's a stretch to call the '52 a "parts truck" because it is restorable. The bed is the worst part of the body, pretty much the lower 4" of the bed is gone or severely rusted. The only thing holding it to the frame are two badly rusted bolts on the back.
Then later you will sell off the truck for some one to restore for more money than you paid for it and they will have to find the parts you have removed. Still as you say cheaper than getting just the parts.
Here's hoping the running board brackets are sound and can save you the effort of repairing your old ones. Best solution of all. Yes, I can see the bottom of the bed looks like it has a CCA patch panel. Those don't weld in too well, do they?
Now I feel bad HOTFR8. For what it's worth, some of the parts I'm taking off of the F2 I'll replace with parts that I have. For example, the inner fenders that I have need a lot of work. A good metal person could fix them but I feel it is beyond my skill, whereas the inner fenders in the F2 are almost perfect. So I'll swap those parts. The same is true for the cowl vent. But for parts like the window channel and door latch mechanism, you're right, the next person would have to source those parts. Osage, I was looking at the running board brackets on the F2 last night and they are different than the RB brackets on the F4. Figures, but I may sacrifice one of the F2 RB brackets to save the F4 ones. Yeah, the bottom of the bed is toast. I keep thinking that when I finish the F4, it'd be fun to make a patina'd ride out of the F2 (source a drive train and perhaps some new axles) but I'm not sure how to repair the bed and it still look old.
Do not feel bad about it. It is just what works best for you. I took the cowl vent out on mine as it is an area well known to rust and filled it in. Parts of what was left that did not have rust went to a restorer to replace his cowl vent. I also had to replace window winders in side the doors as they had rusted beyond repair. My 1/4 vent windows I had to have made from scratch as I could not find anything to replace them with.
I was able to put in a little work today. A friend of mine came over to help. While it rained this morning we figured out how to repair the running boards. The red oxide primer ones are the original and the silvery ones are from a panel. I think you'll be able to see how we cut them to fit together. I just need to file fit the two pieces and weld together and repeat the process for the other side. After lunch and the rain stopped, we took the front clip off the 52 to get the inner fenders. The rusty bolts fought us the whole time. And here is some comparison of the inner fenders. Gray ones are what I had, they aren't horrible, but the 52's just have surface rust and not rust holes.
Well, I almost finished up the passages side running board before I ran out of Wire and gas for my mig. I ended patching this running board differently than I did the driver's side. The donor running board was in worse shape on the front and back than the original. The pictures tell the tale.
Sometimes these little projects force you into doing more than you'd planned. The upside, of course, is the experience you gain - and the pride in knowing you solved the problem yourself. Nice work on running board number two!
I went by the body shop yesterday and the cab is coming along. I'm taking the doors to him today so they can be fit to the cab.
I picked up the running boards from the painter today. Man they look good. I can hardly wait to see the cab!
They do look good. What plans so they do not scratch when you stand on them? I put rubber strips on mine. Wheel arch - body side molding that way you do not stand on the painted surface.