As a comparison the tire size in this picture is a 235/75/15. I personally like the slightly bigger tire. With that being said I bought my wide whites in 225/75/15 since I rub a touch in the rear. This should be just that much smaller and hopefully not rub.
On my '48 I have 235/70/15s. unmoded fenders are 3 or so inches above the rims. To get the tires off I have to jack up the frame & put stands under it & then jack up the axle a bit. A bit tight getting the tire out between the drum & fender, probably couldn't get it out with lowering blocks.
anyone have the part number for the 1" sway bar that should work ? it looks like I ordered the wrong bar , see below this is what I have and it does not fit: Dorman® 927-302 - Front Sway Bar Jeep Cherokee 1994-2001
Keep us updated on the sway bar upgrade If you could. I'm eager to see how that works out cause I'd like to do it to my coupe. Thanks. Sent from my flip phone.
Heres a pic of the 41 Plymouth Coupe I had with Wheel Vintique 15x6 and 15x7 Chrome Smoothies and 195/75 and 235/75 Coker Classic radials..........your car and your right to do what you want but 17" rims to me are as mentioned Hot Wheels style or tractor wheels..........lol.........anyway its a nice looking Plymouth you have..........andyd
very nice , no 17's for me either now , I like the wheels on the red Plymouth in post #17 it will be something similar
You will be pleased with the OD. I have one in my 48 coupe and it will cruise at 65-70 with the stock 4.10:1 rear gear. However, I do have a 59 model 230 but the old 218 was capable of getting there it just took a little longer. The flathead can be a reliable engine. You will not win and drag races with it, but does draw some attention. There are also parts available out there that will make it perform a bit better. Here is the 230 in mine. Also, if you haven't done so yet check in over at the P15-D24 forum.
Guess it depends on rod or custom, that makes a great looking engine for a custom, but not a rod, show vs go.
Ive had Plymouths in this vintage both with stock motors and a chevy 265 ci.. With a stock motor why would you go to all the work and expense to install disc brakes and such.. They handled great and Ive never had brake fade or any stopping problems. Id put on wide white radials of the same size as originals.
The disc swap is a very simple job on these cars which means you have access to the latest parts that can be purchased at NAPA. Not to mention that the old Bendix style dual wheel cylinder brakes are a pain in the butt to get/keep properly adjusted. You are right, when they are properly adjusted they do work great, but need pretty regular attention.
Like hkestes said, the disc brake conversion on these cars is real easy, and I have found upgrading to disc brakes is less expensive then rebuilding the OEM brakes! Given the cost, and the effort involved with keeping the original drums properly adjusted, over less expensive and better functioning disc brakes, why would a guy want to keep the OEM stuff? Gene
Just like what is stated above disc brake conversion is the best upgrade I did to my truck made it so much safer to drive and a hole lot more fun. Jim
i guess thats why we all aint driving the same car.!!i bought my 50dodge 20 years ago.all the way home ,i was thinkn sbc ,turbo,etc.after drivn the flat 6,fluid drive awhile ,i started to like it.after swaping in a ford 8 in.rear ,with 3.00 gears,i can go 70 all day,and get over 20 mpg.split manif. pipes,and 12 in. glass packs make everyone look,and ive never had a speeding ticket,YET.the stock brakes have stopped it every time,so far.now with a 300 horse small block,im not so sure!!!? ?!still think of gettin out the sawzall ,from time to time,but my wife has laid claim,and says i better not.old habits are hard to break
Nice Plym Moody and welcome to the HAMB. I have a soft spot since the first family car of my recollection was a 46 Plymouth. I'm glad the HAMB talked you down off the "17" dubs" cliff. Now be careful of cutting too much coil off the front springs. One coil will make a big difference. The effect is multiplied out at the end of the control arm.
Thanks guys , just installed Aerostar springs with new insulators ,cut one coil, installed Cherokee sway bar new BFG radials and 15x6 true spokes, big difference in handling.
Love the look!!! Just have some concerns with the front wheel width and real life turning abilities with out rubbing the tires or fenders. BILL RINALDI
Looks great! Do you have a part number or more info on the Cherokee sway bar swap? I was looking to do this to my '39 Plymouth Coupe. Thanks.
Thats the one I used , but not the best option as I had to drop the mounts 3" and I have seen guys using the Cherokee sway bar without dropping the mounts so I guess they used a different year ?
Thanks for the info. I guess i'll have to do a bit more research. When i find out which year sway bar works the best i'll post the info here. As a side note, did you relocate your upper front shock mounts to the frame? I was thinking about doing this to my '39 Plymouth Coupe as I've heard it improves the car quite a bit.
Moody Blue, Good job filling out those wheelwells. It makes all the difference in the way our 48s look.
Thanks I am very happy with the 215/75x15 BFG tires on true spokes , makes a huge difference compared to the Coker bias ply tires I had on before..next step will be to install the od transmission.
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