How does thing come out? Haha. Im used to a crossmember but this one has it riveted in. Do i have to pull the block with it? Also is there a part i can get to switch that old driveline to a u joint type? And is there a rear end that bolts up?
It's not that hard, I figured it out when I was 16. There is a cover over the transmission that allows the transmission to come back and up and out in front of the front seat. It takes a lot of parts to convert to open-driveline, not just one, plus you need a transmission with a 'normal' rear yoke And it does have a U-joint (only 1) and it is located inside the 'ball' at the back of the transmission. Un-bolt the 4 bolts, slide the ball back along the torque-tube and there is the U-joint. It unbolts, the look at it carefully, you will see 2 bolts on each side with bent-over safety tabs; it is not like a normal U-joint. Unhook the emergency brake so the torque-tube can drop down out of the way. On the transmission 2 of the bolts that hold it to the bell housing are 'normal', they are on the top, the bottom 2 are on the 'inside' of the bell housing, remove the clutch cover from the bottom to get to them. There it is, quick and dirty, I'm sure I left something out but it ain't that hard.
if you decide to switch to open driveline a mid seventys nova or pont, olds equivalent rear end and std trans will work and almost!!!! a bolt in tom good luck ps why do you need to remove trans
Drill the spring pad mounting holes 1 1/2 Inch ahead of where they are now, and it will be centered. Cosmo
Well thats what i was asking as well. I got a full pressure 235 for it. The 216 is siezed up bad. So i dis***embled the whe thing and i dont see where to pull the block out to put the new one in. The motor mounts are up front on the bottom and theres none elsewhere. So am i to attach it to the picker firstand then un bolt it or is there an easier way? My 235 i picked up will bolt right up to the trans. Ive never had one this old so im a little lost here. Ive had willys trucks and studies but they werent like this. Im used to being able to lower the trans down by dropping the crossmember
You'll need to use your existing front mount, it will bolt up to your 235. The old engine mount points on the side of the 235 don't get used. The back of the motor is held up by the front mounts of the trans.
If you're going to be keeping this car ..... and doing various surgeries on it, $20 is money well spent to get your official GM Chevrolet shop manual. You'll be able to pull ******s, do whatever, by just thumbing through the pages.
Lots of posts about what trans and rearend to use to go to open drive. I pulled the motor out of my '50 without a manual, it's not that hard. Couple bolts up front, a couple bolts at the bellhousing. Usually the front mount is shot and just pulls apart anyways.
Rustynewyorker. I know its not hard. Im just having trouble visually understanding it. The whole stationary crossmember is making me not understand it. I pulled the cover off the floor in the cab and theres a small one above it as well. And i see the bolts i just cant register it i guess. Theres only 2 motor mounts and the 235 i got is exactly the same and bolts in. But where are the bolts to the trans. Does the trans unbolt from the bell housing i dunno. Im lost. I wish someone was nearby here that wouldnt mind giving a hand. I live in Roseville California
Here are the steps from the '49 to '53 manual. 13 steps if not a convertible, 14 steps if a convert. Scroll down to major service operations. Best to own a manual to avoid the "cobble effect". http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/07trans/7_005.HTM
Cory, If you follow Dave Downs advice, it should be easy. I would separate the the u-joint at the back of the trans, and pull the engine and trans out as a unit. With it out in the open, you will be able to pull the starter. Then pull the clutch and flywheel, and drop them out the bottom. That will allow you to remove the bell housing bolts (they are on the inside) . You will be able to re-***emble everything on the back of your 235 and install it as a unit. The trick is to remove the lower flywheel cover to gain access to the lower trans bolts.
Be glad its not a power glide ******. That required a special stand with a winch that set above the ****** on top of the floor to remove it, and it was a trip and a half. A cable wrapped around the ****** and then you moved it back an inch, then turned the whole thing on it nose and dropped it down. A lot of work. Chevys were a trip back then. Iceman
I just did this over the last couple of days on my 49 Styleline Deluxe. One mount on the front of the motor, one mount on each side of the bell housing and a mount on the rear of the transmission. I picked it up and removed the whole thing at once. My replacement motor was a 216 from a 50 Truck. I had to reuse my bell housing from the car on the truck motor. I didn't even unbolt the front u-joint.....I just unscrewed the big nut on the torque tube. Remove the clutch fork cuz it will hang up on the emergency brake linkage on the way out if you don't. FYI.....if the motor won't turn its going to be difficult to remove the clutch, flywheel and bell housing. Mine would only turn about an inch either way and I was able to get 5 of the clutch bolts out. The last one I had to drill a small hole in the bell housing to get to it.
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