Good day all. let me preface this by stating I am an old guy with an old soul who likes to do things the old way and likes to do everything myself and within a budget. Rare for me to ask for help but I need some direction/ideas if possible. I built the Kustom as a guy would have done back in the 60's in his driveway. No bags, no chop, flat head six cruiser. Has tons of fun in it, Suede Palace in 2019, Magazines, cruises, shows etc. BUT I got bored and wanted "Hot Rod". Now the issue. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I wanted to stay with a coil spring lift not a straight axle due to the $$ involved. The Dodge has an upper spring perch in the frame NOT the control arm. I added a 3" taller spring to start with, 1970 Nova SBC springs. (16" free height - 13" installed) PROBLEM: non adjustable negative camber & the upper control are is laying on the frame due to the springs just pushing up the frame. I moved the upper are mount out attempting to work on the camber, which it did but also dropped the arm another inch ( more lift). ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- with the suspension compressed with a floor jack under the arm by 2" inches (10" installed) I get my 1" + off the frame. I put in the old upper bumper, it compresses to the correct 1"+ and the camber is perfect. What would yo guys do? search out a shorter spring? cut the spring I have? I thought about control arm mods but don't think that will help. Obviously I want to keep the height up...
In the long run, a straight axle kit is going to be so much easier than trying to get the IFS to work at that radical of a height. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/FORD-STEERING-BRAKE-KIT,35260.html You're also going to run in to Ackerman issues I think, since now the spindle is angled back further than before due to the stance, so you'd be seeing all the issues ***ociated with that. The advantage of straight axle is you get the axle/spindles mounted perfectly for alignment and handling, with the added lift of the parallel leafs. I understand you see this a budget build, but anything involving steering, braking, and handling should be done with safety and reliability at the forefront.
Appreciate the input very much, and yes I agree safety is important. I don't plan on running it at all. I get to retire this year and I need something to throw the ole spark back in me when needed. Nothing better than ******* off the hood. Thanks again..
Nice looking Dodge, I think it needs a Hemi.... As Peter says, it will be difficult to attain your goals with the oem setup. No, a straight axle is not a simple install depending on your level of CDO but if you are just ready to retire then you should have a couple of good years left...
Hemi - sureeeeeeeeeeeeeeee Oh I could do the straight axle and probably will have too. thx for the info and the compliment on the Dodge..
You do understand that you can not drive the car with out all 4 bolts in the upper control arm in place and bolted down, correct? Doesn't matter how cool it looks, your spring has lifted the front end beyond the designed movement of the font suspension. You have little choice but to cut the current spring, or replace it with a shorter one. I would be surprised if you could return it, so you might as well start cutting it. I would cut about a 1/2 of a coil off until you can get everything to bolt back into place. Then you need to cut a 1/4 of a coil off until you reach a point where the camber on the wheels is acceptable ( at max adjustment). That would be the max height the suspension can safely be raised. If you want it higher then that, you are going to have to modify something so you can exceed the maximum movement of the suspension as designed. If you cut the spindle and add extra length to the height between the spindle itself and the point where the upper control arm attaches to the spindle. The only other option I see would be to cut the spindle off the king pin mounting and move it to a point lower on the king pin mount and rewelding it there.
.you can modify the upper control arm mounts,..,cut out existing pad area, . lower an inch or more depending where it bottoms out...on a 51 Chrysler its 2 inches... using 1/4 inch mild steel for new mount and tap new thread holes for arm bolts and gusset the plate where it over hangs the spring pocket..
Thx Gene, yes I know about the 4 bolts and driving it, this was just a "lets see" moment. Appreciate the input, the springs were cheap on Craigslist so I will probably cut them as stated. I have had the entire front end off. cleaned and painted so its just nuts and bolts. Again Thank you Rich
Now this I like. Great idea. I could even slot it for more camber adjustment. Thanks very much Von Mac. Rich
appreciate you checkin in. Decided to put the upper bumpers on the control arms for now to keep it off the frame and moved on to some other things until I get the correct tires I plan on using. Not putting any miles on it anyway.
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