Feel for you dude, most of the aftermarket stuff just doesn't fit that well. You are replaceing so much, it makes it ever harder. Just keep at it, hope everything turns out to your liking.....Jim
Floor completely seam sealed and undercoated. Used the 3M Fast-n-Firm Seam Sealer and Rustoleum Leak Seal, the texture looks exactly like I wanted it to. I am going to use this throughout the build. Stuff isnt cheap but is the best I have used so far. Close up of texture
Wow...just caught up from my last post months ago! you have done some work brutha! That cab looks great, its to bad the floor had to come out. My floor pans fit well tho so im sure yours complet floor/firewall will work fine! My truck is from TX, Whats up with u guys having rotten floors only! So IM nominating you for the most challenging build of 2011/2012! BTW.....damn...I want the tool box!!! So bitchin man!
Appreciate the comments guys. Really do. Last night right as I was dozing off I thought about my choice of undercoating. I wonder how it will hold up against the heat from the exhaust/engine etc. Didnt even think about it at the time....too late now so we will just have to see... I ordered an assembly manual just so I could double check what I am doing. I hope it includes cab measurements. I want to double check everything before I weld up the floor. I am going to put the floor aside for now and work on the doors a bit. Get the bottoms cut open and clean up what I can inside, then spray it with the same undercoating before I weld them back up.
So I started working on the door this morning. I ordered the bottom patch panels but didn't want to cut out that big a piece as only the bottom was rusted through, so I measured up from the bottom 2" and scribed my line using the angle iron as a guide, then used the magnets to hold it down and cut it out with a cut off tool. Then I cleaned all the gunk out and spray the whole door down with phosphoric acid. Let it sit all day while I was working on the floor. Then hit it with the pressure washer and air dryed it out, I have a heater on it right now to make sure it gets dry, then I am going to spray it with primer for now. Almost hate to, looks kinda cool.... Door is primed.. Floor is in!!!! Got all the bracing cut out so I can have some damn room. Before I put the floor in, I tried my hand at some metal work. Right in the center down low there was a lot of filler. I sanded it all out and messed around with a dolly and hammer and had a huge outward dent that oil canned in or out and stayed either in or out. I had another small dent that I got out perfectly. I started reading about shrinking with a torch and tried it out, and holy shit, it came out just about perfect!! I heated one spot at a time in a circle around the center of the high spot, then hammered on it with a slight angle toward the center. The grabbed a soaking wet rag and cooled it down, lastly did the center and when I was done it was nice and tight. So I welded the back panel to the back of the floor, and hit it with some primer for now. Anyway, I worked on this thing literally from sun-up to sun down, I hope it was all worth it. It sure would suck to have to cut the floor back out because the doors dont fit....
Thanks man, I better go check up on yours now... Lst I saw of it was in the thrashin for LSR thread...
Just found this thread. Wow, great job Shadams, keep it up. Please can I ask how you installed the valves residual? You can show me with a picture? Many thanks
Sure, when I get home tonight I'll shoot you a couple pics. Thanks for the props but I gotta tell you, if my comes out a fraction as nice as yours i'd be happy. So the last couple nights I got the drivers side door mounting holes all cleaned up, lots of rust and gunk in the threads that cleaned up nicely with a tap and die set. Got the door on and it fit perfect. Going to do the same on the pass side and if it is good to go as well then I will final weld and seam seal the floor in and then some real progress can be made.
So here is how I did mine. I might have done them a little differntly in hindsight, but this should work fine. Frame is filthy, just sitting there and somehow gets just nasty, but hre you go... Front, in between master and t that goes to each caliper.. Rear, between master and adjustable prop valve...
Shadams and Orula, don't mean to mess with your post, but I also wanted to show how I did my install. I was told this was a good way to install and my brakes work great....Jim
Looks good Jim! I originally had a GM prop valve like that but decided to go with the adjustable one. And dont apologize, thats what this thread/forum is for, so people can lean from my screw ups or accomplishments and so we can get ideas from each other and make them or own. keep them coming...
Many thanks Oldman2, many thanks Shadams. I have installed brake disc in front, drums rear, Power dual booster brake and proportioning valve near the master cylinder. I do not know if the residual valves must be installed on the line that goes rear drums or on the two lines that go to the front brakes (disc). Here a photo: Many thanks
I have been told that those prop valves have built in residual valves. But if not, I think jim/oldman has the right set up. Otherwise you would need 2 valves for the front.
Perfect Shadams, thanks. How can I be sure of this? This is my Proportioning Valve: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFF-2301NA/ This is my Residual Valves. 1 Red anodized, 1 blue anodized, for rear drums, 10 psi: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SSB-A0765/ Many thanks
Well, I have read many a thread on this topic, and their is always conflicting info. It seems the general consensus is that the newr cars dont have residuals in combo with the prop valve because the master is on the firewall. When the master is level or lower then the wheel cylinders they will be needed to maintain a slight amount of pressure so the pedal doesnt have to travel so far. I think it is one of those things where some people use them, and their brakes work great so the say you need them. Some dont put them on and have no problems, so they say you dont need them, which then confuses the hell out of the rest of us who are trying to figure out if we need them or not. I say put them on, I dont see how they can hurt anything and its not that much more work to install them.
Didn't work on the truck this weekend at all, doing yard work mostly. But I did build this today with leftovers from the angle iron I had framed up my cab with. Was sick and damn tired off carrying this thing around where ever it was needed.
Tht is the 187 230v welder. Kicks ass. I really wanted a miller dual vltage thinking itwould be easier to do sheet metal with the 110, but it was out of my price range. Its working out just fine though.
I am going to need a lot of advice from you guys during the cab reassembly. Take a look and see what you think.... Got the bottom of the dr door all welded up. After this pic I put a bead of seam sealer on it and primed it up. Mounted the door up and adjusted it, opens and closes very smoothly but I notice a couple of problems.The front of the door matches up perfectly with the lines but the back is about 1/4" low. The top of the rear edge is flush but the bottom sticks out a bit. I welded the pillar bottom up to high on the floor, so everything is out of wack. So I guess the next step is to cut the welds and lower this thing down to match the other side... Thoughts? So anyway, I bought the eastwood sand to soda blaster conversion kit. Pretty simple. After I get the cab back together I am going to try it out.... Lastly, they built a HUGE bodyshop where I work at for motorhomes. Has a 55 ft long downdraft paint booth that is 20ft tall and this killer air compressor!! 250 gallon tank with two 4 cylinder compressors on it. 153 CFM at 175 psi!!! This bad boy could probably run a couple shops by itself...
Wow, that's a killer compressor! I hope you get that door alignment fixed - what a pain to have to tear it apart & re-weld. At least you seem to have the problem figured out.
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