Okay I've got a 1950 chieftain with a straight 8. Got it a year ago, same old story guy said it runs the batterys just dead. Yeah ok. Lier lol. So told the wife Id have it on the road in a week. It's now been over a year. The problems gas tank rusted through. Bought a used race fuel cell ended up cracked. Next I rebuilt the carb, carb still not spiting fuel like it should. Guess I need a pro to rebuild it. Okay the big problem I converted to 12 volt and my coil exploded because I left the key on... I am wondering if I was supposed to keep the voltage regulator that's on the firewall. I am starting to think the car gods hate me. So any help would be appreciated. If anyone is in the Hampton roads area of va. Pm me I could use a hand.
Ok dude, sounds like its fuel pump and a resistor. Gotta make sure the coil gets the right voltage. Hell get a electric pump and bypass the stocker. She will run
Sorry about the intro. When I take the line off the carb and start it over it kicks out plenty of fuel.
That's what I think I rebuilt it and it's just not spraying. I think the jets are clogged. I hate this carb
Don't hate the carb! Assuming you have the original carb, it is an excellent carburetor; capable of delivering good power, and excellent fuel economy. And you don't need a pro to rebuild it for you. Study the fuel chapter in your factory Pontiac shop manual. When you build the carb, make certain that you blow compressed air BOTH DIRECTIONS through all the passage ways. And remember the old time proved adage: Of all "carburetor problems" three percent are compression, ninety two percent are ignition, and five percent are actually fuel related. A 12 volt conversion, professionally done, won't hurt anything; but other than easier starts in extremely cold weather, won't help anything either. One not professionally done could create lots of problems. Jon.
If you think the jets in your carb are clogged then she isn't "rebuilt"! I assume you are running a good fuel filter? When I rebuild a carb, and as an antique engine collector, ex-car and motorcycle mechanic, I dismantle the carb completely, clean the crud off every single part including the body with a good carb cleaner (I like 2+2 gumcutter) then reassemble with the rebuild kit. Don't forget to properly set your float level and it may be too late but you should count the turns to 'close' on your needle valves before you remove them so you can reset them in the same place for a starting position for your final tune. Do this and your carb is truly "rebuilt"!
I already did the 12 volt coil, battery, 10si alt, removed regulator due to 10si have one internal. I believe because the key was left on it was sending power to the coil and it had no where to go and Boom! Alot of people didn't understand why I converted to 12 volt, I want and everyday driver and due to the horrible traffic here my rpms wouldn't be high enough to charge the bat. Plus I have shaved doors and the actuator is 12 volts, radio 12 volts ( mine didn't come with the radio option). In the future if I plan to run bags it will need 12 volts. As far as the carb goes I pull the fuel line off the carb and it spits fuel fine when I tun over the engine. If I pour a steady stream of fuel down the carbs throat it will stay running till I stop pouring. I looked down the carb as I'm trying to start and the two nozzles are just barely dripping fuel so the carb is the problem. As it's a Carter wcd 719s parts are hell to find. You can find rebuild kits but it's just the gaskets not the jets or the throttle arm that missing ( I bent and cut a coat hanger to work for now). So I appreciate everyones help. Also as far as the coil exploding from the key left on could the fact that my car has a key switch and push button ignition have any thing to do with?( You turn on the key and then push the start button).
Parts for the 719s are readily available mail order. You are just looking in the wrong places! Is the choke mechanism working on the carb? At 65 degrees and a cold engine, the choke butterfly should be closed. If not, the engine would run with gasoline being drippled down through the carb, but probably not on its own. As for the 12 volt conversion, if you did it right, its OK; but certainly not necessary. Lots of miles were driven on these older cars in city traffic utilizing the original 6 volt system. Jon.
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