Doing the 90's and keeping it square and a good fit is pretty easy. You start hammering in a radi and things can move around and render a part useless. If you trim the radi edge to fit after folding the 90's then you know you'll have a Tits fit.
Pretty pleased with the new snips I ordered in. They took care of this job pretty well. I may make some test bends in the bead roller with the tipping die and see how crisp I can get an edge on a piece of scrap. If that works I may go that route. If not I'll use the vise.
Digging deeper and finding some more rot. It's not terrible but will take some effort to make the patch panels and get them fit in properly.
Doing some dry fitting just to get an idea of what to cut and where. This picture gives a great view of how much longer the 2 door doors are. Measures out to be 7". I wont be cutting anything as far as the quarters go until I get the Sedan Delivery body sitting on the 4 door donor car. That could happen this weekend.
You sir have quite the puzzle going on lol. I thought chopping my top was over whelming I can only imagine taking on what you are doing. Looking good though and I'm following intently LOL.
I have followed this tread from the beginning and have enjoyed every post. But I'm a little confused. Are you saving the original chopped delivery or are you putting one together from the second delivery, the two door and the four door pan?
Yes I'm putting together the 2nd Delivery using the 4 door pan and cowl. I'm leaving the original chopped Sedan Delivery in the shadows and will continue with straightening it up after I complete this one. My plan is to make it more of a hot rod. I'll put a V8 in it, and who knows what else. It may not even be HAMB friendly. Not sure yet. My skills will be honed a bit better by then! I guess this thread is a 2 for the price of 1, it just sort of evolved that way. I had NO CLUE of what I was doing when I bought the chopped Sedan Delivery. It just called out to me every time I passed it. I quit smoking cigarettes 30 days before I bought it, and as corny as it sounds, it is kind of a "victory" thing for me. I have gathered some nice tools along the way that I always wanted. I was a 3 pack a day smoker and any way you do the math, it gave me $7300 a year in extra income. And I feel a damn site better!
Your fab skills will get to see how poorly the first one was chopped that you will knock number two out of the park when you chop that one too. Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
My plan has changed so many times since I started this build. I had stars in my eyes when I bought that first chopped POS and thought I would have that thing on the road in a month or two! Boy! Was I sadly mistaken....but I have enjoyed the whole process, had a few setbacks like shoulder surgery, couple of other health issues but I am gaining momentum and things are coming together quite well at this point.
Got all of the floorboards cut out for the most part. I am going to leave the curved floor brace in until it is time to move the SD over to the 4Door. It won't take but a minute or so to break the spot welds loose. I had tried to locate the spot welds and drill them out, but wasn't too successful at it, so I have been gently using the air chisel with good results. If I take it easy and just "blip" the trigger, it cuts the spot welds pretty well without distorting the metal too bad. I will need to go back and fill in some small holes but no big deal there.
Thank you sir, I have been inspired by the likes of you and others on this board, and your affirmation is most welcomed! It does a lot for the confidence for someone that is afraid of F'in up an old car!
Personally I use a IR avc13 panel cutter because its more controllable than almost all others. You can throttle it so it barely ticks along and not explode when you pull the trigger. All the body men that I know who have tried it wind up buying their own. It has a longer barrel and you can whittle with it, very controllable. See how long the barrel is, Mac tool use to sell them and you can find them on evil bay. Ingersoll Ran air riveter, they have other ones but the AVC 13 is the one you want.
Damn 1-Shot, I paid less for the Sedan Delivery bodies than that AVC13 costs new....I can understand it works well for that kind of cheese. I didnt see it anywhere for less than $695!
There is a couple of used ones on Evil-Bay in the $300.00 range. If you were closer i would let you borrow one of mine. Then you would want one too. Frank
https://www.yardstore.com/riveting/...et-guns/ingersoll-rand-avc-13-riveter-rebuilt Used: $149.00 Rebuilt: $199.00
Working on getting all the surfaces in the wheel wells repaired so when I transplant the SD body, I have good solid flanges to make spot welds in the wheel wells. I forgot how much fun it is chasing holes trying to weld in thin rusted sheet metal. I had to cut out a good bit to get to good solid metal but it turned out acceptable.
Slowly cutting my way to good metal. Busting loose more spot welds. Most of the spot welds pop loose with no problem at all. Those that don't, break on the piece that will be scrapped more often than not.
What were you using to strip? I have been using a wire brush which some people think is a bad idea but seems to be doing well for me.
I got ya. I have looked at one of those but I don't currently have the 200 to spend on it. I have been using a simple wire cup. I have been looking at these though.
I have several sizes of those. I stripped the frame for my project with them. They worked well for that, and I use them on paint as well. The SCT works well on larger panels, but it's tough to get into radiused and tight curved areas. You can see where the upper fender blends into the top, I couldn't get that with the SCT. I will have to get the DA sander in there. I'm sure you know, but it goes without saying...Be sure and wear GOOD eye protection when using those. A buddy of mine got one of those wires stuck in his eye. He was wearing regular safety glasses but it somehow got past them. It was not a pretty site!
I use a full face shield, a pair of safety glasses and a mask LOL. I have had those bastards stuck in me everywhere. I usually wear a Carhart jacket as it is the thickest material and seems to deflect better.
Worked on the tailpan some tonight. Doing some dry fitting of the new EMS Tailpan I ordered in. More than happy with the parts I am getting from them. Thanks @ems customer service! This is the first time I have worked with clecos. I bought these a couple of years ago and this is the first opportunity I have had to use them. I see why guys like to use them. The first couple of pictures is what was left of the tailpan. I am going to have to make up some new braces but that shouldn't be a problem. It was totally rusted out underneath. I cut it out and left plenty of overlap so I can scribe the metal around the new tailpan and cut everything to fit.
The Jalopy Journal
