Moparob, It has been a brain twister up to now...Glad you are inspired... I am into home built aircraft for the past 26 years and have 2 planes... One is a Texas Parasol which need the wings built and complete plane covered in dacron and Poly Fiber. The second is a Rotac Rally 2B...30HP 2 stroke 2 cylinder Cuyuna engine... Just bought the Rally last month from ebay...
steze48 the visor looks killer, im a big fan of visors on the 50's cruisers they just set off the overall look of the car and functional to. So your in the aviation bidnezz too eh,...... I work mostly A&P rotary wing/ tilt rotor amongst others. Your ROtac & Parasol are nice, ive been wishing for years to own my own single engine fixed wing but its pricy and not practical for me. Keep the pics coming of your Wayfarer, I am really interested in what the finished product will look like.
Thank you Moparob... Going to have the door glass cut on Mon. I made a door latch popper from a chevy starter solenoid... Added an angle plate of 16 ga. steel... It will take one of those Chinese ATV starter solenoids to kick it though. I will put a micro switch somewhere to open from the outside along with a choke cable to open manually through the firewall up next to where the left fender bolts on to the body. That's where the front body lift eyes are located. I used the original door latch levers and handles just relocated lower down on the door. I finished those up today. Pass. door opens from the inside only manually. When the glass gets here I will add a little 777 contact cement to the door and glass run wrapped around the window and roll it up in the right location. Let it dry and roll down to pop rivet.
You never cease to amaze me, especially when you take bits and odds from here and there and make them work for what your car. Truly an outside of the box thinker! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
You guys are using pop rivets for the glass run channel? What about the window fuzzies? I was going to get some music wire & start making staples. Mine was installed with wood screws!
I've used heavy staples for attaching such. You can get Arrow brand in Stainless Steel & different lengths at Home Depot also. I made a drill jig with the hole distance that matches the staple legs to make it a little easier to install.
I was gonna use little transfer punches to mark the holes in the fuzzies etc to match the OEM staple holes. I have all these #6 wood screws to make them from...
OK!!! I have the run channel popped in and the whiskers in...Glass is cut and secured in the lift channel with black RTV, switch hooked up and added a door popper made from a GM starter solenoid...I used one of those Chinese ATV starter solenoid as a relay... added a choke cable as a mechanical opener for the D.S. door using a lever from the extra heater control...Mounted next to the hood latch...Bought a remote door popper key fob thingy kit.Everything works great!!! WOO HOO! I'll add pictures when my camera battery charges up...
I have to confess this even though it was me that fugged it up... I took a drive last week and floored it coming back home into the wind...Hood popped up bending the visor and busting the D.S. windshield!!! Bent the hood but I got it fairly straight now using a hammer and dolly... I had forgotten that I took of the hood latch panel to install the bugle horn in front of the radiator...DOOH!
First picture is the lever to open the door if the electrics go out... Second picture is the GM starter solenoid with a plate over it to use as a door popper...This one is for the passenger door which I may not use... Next two is the inside and outside of the door obviously... Fifth picture...DOOH! busted windshield On the last picture are the door wires... I will have to get a large piece of shrink tubing to cover...
I purchased some Pico Fabric Loom cover for a tractor restoration some years back ; that stuff is TUFF, but very flexible. Looks much better than the ubiquitous corrugated plastic; reasonably priced, too. Pico's online catalog. http://www.picowiring.com/catalog.html see page 29 Got mine from Quality Distributing (http://www.qualitydist.net/)
Oh big bummer! The former owner of my car took it up to speed with a loose nut on the visor, and it blew the visor up and back & dented the roof plus cracked both windshields. He'd repaired the roof (but not the glass) before I got the car, but I found where he drilled the roof for a dent pull when I stripped off all the paint & bondo. Now I have the upholstery out & can weld it up & knock the dent out for good. But that's surely one of life's "OH SHIT!" moments, when yer hood blows open on the highway.
I hear ya' Ulu, It was about 3 months ago I took off the hood latch and completely forgot about it... Down the road I went...On the way back I hot braked it out of meanness, burnt a nice long scratch... When it hit third I saw the hood move a little then it all came back to me...stomped on the break and locked up all 4's but it was too late...You know that sicken feeling you get when you know you screwed up? Oh well...I do have the hood pretty close...It stretched the metal so I heated it with a torch but went too far...Will Dolly it back out eventually...I had all the body panels nice and close fitting but now the hood has a 1/4 to 3/8" gap where it meets the fenders. Well at least I found out the breaks work now... I bought one of those 8" double diaphragm booster/master cylinders from ebay...
It has been a while sense I posted here... Not much more done.... The Mustang 4 core radiator is not cooling the 400.... I need another larger radiator.... Any suggestions? I know the core support and radiator cover will have to be modified....
No, it was a radiator I had sitting round with steel framing around it. Had some rods that were flattened @ each end. 2 of them were the right length to bolt to some existing structure, welded the rods to the steel framing on the radiator. Cars been gone a number of years so I've forgot exacly what I did. It was forward of where the OEM radiator was. If using the OEM radiator it can be mounted forward of the stock location. Factory did that on export Dodge/Plyms that used the longer DeSoto/Chr 6 cyl. On my '48 Plym with a Cutlass clip I welded 2 pieces of angle iron on forward of OEM location & the radiator extends under the front fenders a ways.
I'm still looking for a radiator and found this one on ebay... Going to order it and modify the core support to fit the radiator... http://www.ebay.com/itm/253104480975
Received a new 4 row Champion radiator for a 70 Challenger with shroud and dual 12" fans... I pulled the front clip to get to it... Will have to widen the core support 2-1/2: for that radiator... The inner finder support brackets to core support will have to be modified for the wider core support... I have the core support with the extra U channel cut and champfered ready to weld up as soon as it warms up outside today... I'll have to cut the drivers side trans line and re-flare the end and extend the drivers side... Lower radiator hose is too short so another 80 E-350 lower hose will have to be remade to fit... The upper is close but another will be cut to fit...
The Jalopy Journal
