I was looking around for dropped tie rods, since I am installing/mocking up a 3 inch drop axle. I ended up ordering some of the actual dropped rod ends, instead of the odd and scary looking "blocks". Now from what I have read the internal threaded rod, needs to be shortened. Not one of the dealers for these tie rods seems willing to give the new trimmed measurement that you need. They only say it needs to be shortened, and offer a shortened one for sale. I am not bad with tools, so I would like to attempt trimming and re-tapping the threads. I think one of the dealers "Speedway" gives a clue, with a 42.5 at the end of a part number mentioned? Is 42 1/2" the magical length needed? From Speedway, on the drop tie rod page.... When used w/ tube # 91634-42.5 produces an eye to eye assembly of 49.5" length minimum and 51" length maximum
I realize I may need to tap, cut, tap, cut, to get down to the right length, and not just cut it off and rethread it.
How about you mock up the tie rod on YOUR AXLE and then see how much needs to be removed? Nobody knows the width of your axle except you. Most every heated and dropped axle is going to be slightly different in width. Just the nature of the beast.
I will do just that.... thanks.... I didn't realize no one had ever done this before.... 50.5 inches center center, not a heated and dropped. It's a Speedway tube axle.... I was hoping someone might have done this before, used the same rod ends, and therefore might know what width they ended up at. Oh well, guess I will have to figure it out for myself...
Why don't you modify your title to say "speedway axle" and maybe you'll get some more pertinent viewers.
It's easy math ( even I did it) work off of your original tie rod ends. Since the new ones are going to require a much shorter tie rod you can modify and screw with the original tie rod and ends to get something that will work...toe in wise. Then just shorten (obviously the RH threaded end) to accommodate the longer dropped ends. Note: that is a bastard thread! Seems like you have to bore the tie rod .625 before re-tapping. Use plenty of Tap Magic!
Actually, the thread is listed as a "popular special", at 11/16-18tpi. My Dad measured the spindle arm tapers center to center, (spindles carefully positioned 'neutral') and subtracted the nominal, cut it from the center. He then ground the ends to have a 'V' to weld, and fit a telescoping piece of cold rolled rod 12" long inside, and tacked it. Bored four 1/4" holes thru the tie rod and inner rod, 2 per side, 3" apart. Inserted four 1/4" bolts cut 1/8"shorter than the diameter of the tie rod tube, used the unthreaded shanks of 4" long bolts...Then rosette welded the small holes, finally welding around the V'd cut. Been in there for 30 years...truck is driven daily. Or you can buy the tap...($18, last I checked) If you buy the tap, be sure you slot the tube at the clamp!
Sooo, if I am only doing one side, I do have to bore out the inside of the tube larger, before tapping? That kind of means you have to cut it first, then drill it out, then tap. It makes the center splice idea sound a little easier. I've got the spindles on it now, and threw the hubs and front wheels back on to check the ride height. Looking good so far. I want a mild lowering, with chunky tires. I LOVE the Chuck Porter truck, but the body mods might get a little tough for my skills. I will probably just finish the chop, and at least get in primer. SO much work to go. It seems like no matter how much I do, there's always 100 more things to do.
Chuck Porter truck. This thing has A LOT more work in it than many people realize. The seat cushions were pretty much sunken into the cab floor. http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a395/PCarps/GNRS2013b/GNRS602_zps8b4e0d79.jpg
Miguello...I had a chance to look the Chuck Porter F1 over closely in '57, I think it was. Every square foot of that truck had some modification... I have an F1 also, a '52. A friend supplied '50 fenders, grille, and sheet metal to convert it. (Cab has the telltale wider back window, but I'll leave it) I was hot to clone the famous Babe Royer full custom '50 F1, but think I'll leave body stock, mainly original color paint, a nice rake and its fresh 283 adapted to F1 tranny. Always liked the F1s.
Mine has the small window, last year I am told, and a column shift so by deduction a 50 model. I kept the stock window height in the rear, and took the chop out below the rear window frame. It evened out the spacing of the window top to bottom. A nice benefit. Someone mentioned doing that, and it worked out pretty well. It's literally even between that seam across the top, and the body line above the bed.
Fender propped up about right. LOVE the billowy balloon tire look, with the rounded body style. It will have 2.5-3 inch whitewalls by the time it's done. Full wheel well openings, is the goal.
You just need to cut the tie rod tube and re tap the threads. Only One side will be fine... Be careful cuz there is one side clockwise and the other one is anticlockwise... Got the same set up on mine: speedway axle + drop tie rods. [emoji106]
Excellent news! Do you have a picture of your truck? Yeah I was aware of the opposite threads, but thanks for the warning. I've rebuilt a LOT of IFS vehicles in my lifetime, but never messed with lowering much past removing a coil, or lowering shackles, etc. First time lowering a beam axle truck, and I must say aside from the king pins and tie rod shortening, it's really been pretty easy and straightforward.
Well, rather than tap/cut, tap/cut, tap/cut... I just measured and cut off the right hand thread side. Yep, it had to be drilled out before the tap would even enter the tube. I looked up the bit size for 11/16", and lo and behold I actually had it. I had a short scary episode, where the drill bit stopped, and I thought I'd never get it out. I ended up with a large channel lock pliers on the large part of the chuck, and got it out. The tap threaded right in, and an hour or so later, I had it threaded enough to test fit the tie rod. I still may tap a "little" deeper, maybe a 1/4" or so.
I will probably never use the tap again, unless I am cleaning threads out on another vehicle, but oh well. I have it if I need it now.
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