I think it could be easier to level it,when you have the rolling frame. You have to mount the intake on,put a level/angle finder on the carburator mounting surface,the motor should be in 3 degree angle.Thats what i've heard and done.Hope that helps..
Well I just put the intake on. The carb mounting flange slopes about 6 degrees toward the front. So you're saying I should drop the tail end 3 degrees past level toward the rear right. Also my frame is sitting at normal ride height.
The motor is usually 3 degrees. Raked lower in the back. Read alot of ch***is setup on here and that is the go to number.
Can anyone recommend a tire size for a lowered shoebox? Prefer a wide whitewall. Every time I read an article it turns into s ******* contest between a couple guys and I get lost in the puddles!
I'm open to suggestions. Really don't know the pros and cons of each? Just want something that's safe and wide whitewall. Really don't want to go over 27.5" total height.
Bias plies are more traditional, but radials tend to drive better. I'm not really sure how bias ply sizes work, but I know that most guys using radials go with a 215/75R15 tire. I think @sevenevez has run both on his so he can tell you better than I which one to go with.
I'm going with a set of Coker tires. They make wide whites in a radial now with the look of the piecrust bias tires. I think 6.70 x 15" looks good.
205-75-15 is the normal radial size 6.70-15 is the normal bias ply size I love the look of the latest (bias ply-look) wide white radial . They look as close to a bias ply as you can get. They're pricey though .
I have 6.70-15 Firestones.They fit nicely and there's a surface on them,but sun has burned them pretty hard.I think i'll get an another set at some point..
Fabbing my rear suspension. Going with a trailing arm set up. I specifically designed this for a shoebox ford. Since no one makes one.....
Welded all of the parts and fitting the rear suspension. Fits great and if all works out this will be a super smooth cruiser!!
So with all of the failures and disasters I read about, I decided not to use air bags. Went with QA1 adjustable coil overs. Going to redo the pan hard. Not happy with its position. very happy with the design so far. Now to put finishing tweets on it and get it all ready for paint or powder coat...also starting the front, hopefully next week.
if anyone is interested I am reproducing this trailing arm set up. It is specifically designed for the ford shoebox! It will come as a bolt on set up. Powder coated or painted to your specifications. I have sold 2 and installed them both on driving cars. Cars are stock height and ride great! Totally adjustable and easy to install! Weld on kit is available as well. Can't wait to see how mine handles being lowered!
It's an extended spring purch riser. Serves as a lower shock mount. To get the correct spring rate and ride height/extended height . Much the same as if you were installing bags. It's actually only 3" long. Most bag perches exceed 4.5". I could have designed it not using the extended perch but this is by far the best option when using quality coil overs with the correct spring rate, extended height, ride height, shock angle and travel.
It depends on the stance you are trying to achieve. I was intending to go with bags, ( extremely low stance) that's why I have such a high step notch. I decided against the bags and went with the coil overs. Now my stance ( frame 3.5" from ground ride height) will be a bit higher but safer and less maintenance. I could have just done a simple C notch. Hind sight is 20 20 right? You can get fairly low with out notching the frame but at a certain point you will reach the line where you bump and bottom out, drive shaft tunnel rub...etc... The trailing arms are a night and day ride difference compared to the leaf spring set up. Lowered or not it gives you lots of adjustability and a smooth ride. You could easily drop 3.75 " with out modifying your floors or frame or keep it stock height. The trailing arm setup gives you way more options when it comes to lowering your car, without the horrible bumps, bottoms and rub issues. In my opinion its a lot more safe than the old 4" blocks, flipped axel and one leaf supporting the weight!!! LOL
I'm looking to lower mine about 2.5-3" (level stance with Aerostar springs in the front) which I understand is about the maximum without worrying about rubbing the driveshaft. I had originally thought about just using dropped springs (from St. Louis Spring or similar) but that looks like a neat setup right there.
The Jalopy Journal
