Technical 1950 hydramatic on the highway

A 50 cad is not geared to loaf along at 1800 at 70...and..
The trans is not "junk" like was just said. If the trans was junk, you would not be able to get to 65/70 any time you decide to take it out on the highway to test it.

Most people today got so accustomed to the lack of RPM noise from 2.50 gears or 3.00 gears with a lock up convertor...OR...have never lived with a car from the 60s, 50s or older. The average US road speeds on the highway in most areas were not consistent 70-80 back in 1950s, anyone who says it was, is a BSer. Could they force it to go 90-100 MPH ? , yes. Can you get a Model A to go 60? Yes but it sounds like the pistons are "swapping holes"

Car companies geared their cars to give the best "pickup" or "pep" around town,(which is what helped sell the car new) but still give enough gear ratio to go decent on the highways, without sacrificing low speed zip. They went by the average driver speeds and terrain, not by "a night-time run from L.A. to Vegas with a fat wallet". I can still remember the older generation comparing who's 1955-1960 car could pull the big hill in town in high gear.

Gas prices were near same for over 2 decades or more, and cheap at under 30 cents, so overdriving the ratio was not something that was needed to be done.
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Or just put a 12v. battery on the floor and use it to power your dwell/tach... need to find out just what RPM you're actually turning.

 

How would I do that? I have 2 wire clamps coming off the meter - 1 that I connect to the wing nut on the air cleaner for a ground and one that I connect to the coil terminal that runs a wire to the distributor.

 

At 65 I dont have the pedal flat on the floor. I could go faster but I feel like Im going to blow the engine.

I tried to road trip it for Thanksgiving once. Drove it an hour at 65, blew a U joint. Towed it home. I was a quart low on the engine oil dipstick.

If the trans was slipping, would I have burnt trans fluid? I checked that today and it was clean and pink.

 

I know my 56 buick wagon would cruise at 60 M.P.H. at no problems and it was an automatic trans and a G.M. car. Bruce.

 

All my old Buicks, '38,'40 and '41, have 4.40 - 1 rear axle ratios. Now, THAT is screaming at 55 mph!

The ujoint was already on it's way out......the steady higher speed for an hour may have accelerated it's demise, but didn't cause it.

The (apparent) oil consumption could be real or a temporary illusion.....meaning, depends how soon after you checked the level. Sludge clogged drain holes could delay oil return to the pan.......or worn rings and valve guides could allowing increased consumption and possibly even excess blow by could cause a loss of oil mist through the crankcase breather.

Old engines, like old people, sometimes need to operate at a slower pace to allow for years of wear and tear......but we still haves some miles left to go before we are done for.

Ray

 

Jack up the rear and figure out the gear ratio. How many turns of the driveshaft does it take for the rear wheels to make one revolution? That simple. Mark the inside of the tire you want to watch with 4 chalk marks 90* apart for greater accuracy.

 

A couple of things come to mind, one is that the engine may not be revving to the max it just may sound like it is and the other is that the throttle position linkage may be out of adjustment. Something that one should establish before pulling the transmission for an overhaul.

No one has mentioned this but those old hydromatics were hard to kill. it doesn't mean that it can't be done and certainly doesn't mean that that one is not trashed but it does mean that it is worth looking at really close before it becomes a 200 pound piece of art on the shop floor.

 

Sadly, you have not filled out your information fully, so no one can know if you are near so that you could wander by and have someone knowledgeable have a gander. Old cars are now fashion statements, many owned by those who have no clue. Those folk need to have someone with a clue give that clue to them. Some of us have driven naught but old cars most, if not all of our lives. We are willing to help, but some things really need a genuine look, with genuine eyes. I'm willing, but - where ARE you??

Cosmo

 

Something a Motor Manual has in it, in detail.

Agreed. I've had abused originals in Oldsmobiles that worked fine way over 100K

Cosmo

 

The early hydramatics, whether single or dual range are "locked up" in 4th (top) gear. The torus cover is engaged right to the front planetary, thus reducing the torus internal speed. This is why when both front and rear clutches are engaged, the transmission is basically locked to the engine. Now if you have a bad front or rear clutch pak, then the transmission will slip. I would test the clutches by simply taking off at a high acceleration rate and see how the 1st to 2nd shift is, the 2nd to 3rd shift is, and the 3rd to 4th shift is. If there is any slippage at any of the shift points, then chances are you have bad clutches.

My previous post mentions finding out what rear end ratio you have. You really need to figure that out first.