Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical 1950 Pontiac Brake Issue

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by rockabillydad, Feb 26, 2025.

  1. rockabillydad
    Joined: Jul 10, 2024
    Posts: 14

    rockabillydad
    Member

    Hey there everyone!

    Strange issue with the brakes on my 1950 Pontiac 2 door Streamliner. Seemed like I had a hanging drum on the driver's side rear because it ended up getting hot and even smoking a bit on a drive this past fall. The brake lights were stuck on and the pedal was rock solid due to the excess pressure. I got under it and ended up replacing the flexible rubber brake line at the rear axle as well as the entire hard line running from the master back, bled the system and seemed like it was good to go. The existing rubber line had swollen so badly the fluid had a pinhole diameter to move through.

    I haven't driven it much since it's been colder than hell, but I take it out every once in a while and also let it run once a week or so. The brake problem seemed to have been solved with replacing those lines and bleeding the system. I let it get nice and hot this past weekend while I was working on some other projects in the garage and noticed my brake lights were on. They had not been on when I started it and the brake pedal had a normal feel to it. I got in the car and the pressure was back in the pedal, yet the car hadn't moved an inch.

    The master cylinder is located on the driver's side frame rail, the exhaust is on the p***enger's side, so I can't imagine it is the master getting hot. Also, the brakes were ice cold obviously since it was freezing out and the car had never moved. The pressure in the system had simply increased by the car idling in the garage.

    Any ideas on where to start with this? Warmer weather is coming and I'm excited to get her back on the road.

    Thanks in advance!
    Chris
     
  2. 302GMC
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 8,475

    302GMC
    Member
    from Idaho

    Pushrod into the master needs to be adjusted ... back it off til you have 1/4" - 3/8'' play on the pedal ...
    And, if you can see into top of master, make sure the tiny byp*** port is open. A tag wire will do the job.
     
  3. rockabillydad
    Joined: Jul 10, 2024
    Posts: 14

    rockabillydad
    Member

    You’re a gentleman and scholar
     
  4. rockabillydad
    Joined: Jul 10, 2024
    Posts: 14

    rockabillydad
    Member

    Guess I never suspected that being an issue when the car is just idled and not driven.
     
  5. 302GMC
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 8,475

    302GMC
    Member
    from Idaho

    And there's damn few of us left ....
     
  6. rockabillydad
    Joined: Jul 10, 2024
    Posts: 14

    rockabillydad
    Member

    Just wanted to follow up and let you know you were 100% right. Adjusted the pushrod and it's good to go. Thank you again!
     
    '28phonebooth, SS327 and 302GMC like this.
  7. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,735

    bobss396
    Member

    I learned this when I was doing brakes for a living, the lesson stuck with me. I still recall the car, a 1966 Impala, maroon 2 door HT.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.