Projects 1950 Styleline Deluxe (swapping 235 w/3 speed for a 250 w/powerglide)

Hoping some of you knowledgeable folks can help me out.
I have a 1950 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 4 door with a 235 and 3 speed ******. The 235 has a bad camshaft. Since I am going to have to pull the engine to do a new camshaft and I also have access to a pretty fresh 250 w/powerglide along with the front subframe from a 1967 Camaro.
My question(s) are:
Will the 250 and powerglide fit? I know the 250 uses the same mount or mount locations as the SBC engines and I will need to get the correct mounts, but will I need to build a new tunnel to fit the trans?
What about driveshaft and rear end, can I reuse any old parts of the driveline or should I, or do I, need to go complete from engine to to tires?

I know everyone loves the old 235s, and I do too...if the 250 wont work (kinda easily) I will just pop a 261 bumpstick and new lifters in the 235 and call it a day. And if that is the case...what else do I need, or should I do, while I am at it?

 

I don’t have the info you need on the swap.

Just my thoughts(not taking cost into consideration) or something to consider.
The 235 sounds cooler than the 250. Almost like a biplane or something.
If I’m going to have a slow engine, it should sound cool. Especially in an 40/50s Chevy.
If I’m going to go through the trouble to swap engines, something bigger would be better.
292 or small block.
Like I said, I’m not the one paying though..

I had a 250 in a C10. It was ok, but I didn’t love it.

 

I would only be going with the 250 swap if it were cheaper than doing the camshaft in the 235, which knowing I’ll need a new rear end and driveshaft will be significantly more expensive. I picked up The Camaro front subframe, 250 engine, and trans for $200. I’ll keep that for an S10 frame I have, just need to find a body to slap over it.

Keeping the 235 I’ll do the 261 cam and lifters, fenton headers, and a carb I haven’t settled on yet. Trying to get it all done for $500-$600. The car was given to me from a cousin that was going away for a while and needed the car removed from storage before they s****ped it, so I don’t mind spending more if I have to.

 

Nothing about a power glide is worth the effort of the swap to me With the popularity of LS swap, I would think you could find a six out of a C10 or something similar that would bolt in easier. When I did my last small block swap in a 61,(not LS, I don't speak that language)I ended up with a perfectly running six, which I traded, with some other parts for a 71 f100, which I traded for 900 bucks, which I traded for my 59 El Camino. One crazy night there. Seriously call your local hot rod or LS shops, look for a take out, or buy a new cam . Just saw an nos 57 cam on Ebay a couple days ago.

 

Is the camshaft actually the problem, or could it be the cam gear which is most likely
a fiber gear. Changed a few of those when I was a kid... last one I put in, an aluminum one.

good luck

 

I’ll stay with my LS (long six). I can’t take credit for that I’m sure I read it from another HAMBer at some point.

 

Yeah it’s the camshaft. Cyl 2 exhauste lobe is rounded from a stuck lifter. Which reminds me I wanted to make a shirt for my fake company that makes athletic wear for gym rats that are also gear heads “Sticky Lifters”.

 

You didn't mention what year the 235 is. If it's pre-'54, the 261 camshaft won't work, as Chevrolet increased the journal size in '54.

 

Why do you need to pull the engine for a cam change? Frame interference?

 

I think the Powerglide will work fine and you already have it. I believe in using what you have around. 10-bolt Camaro rears swap in easily enough. Find an old Impala floor shifter and you're good to go. Even a Mustang unit, or re-pop would work. Lokar is another option.

 

Did exact thing to 39 chev, probly same style of frame. Did it with help from 10yr old, come along winch and an electric drill. 57 rear end, still in there, now would probly goto S10 w/discs, 57 and 2nd gen stuff too pricey. PG and 250, is well balanced, drove it thru 12 states over 20yrs, Texas, Minn, east coast, Canada from when I lived in PA. Had car 51yrs, now with MII and 350/350. May hav some pics somewhere. Good luck.

 

The block is a 56-62 based on the casting number. Head is the 848 that everyone loves. I have the want ad from 2017 when my cousin got the car and it says the head was shaved and it had a recent valve job. He drove it for 2 years before letting it sit for 2 and giving it to me.

 

In that case, I'd put a cam in it and continue on. I can't see how a complete drivetrain swap would be either cheaper or easier.

 

I'm not 100% sure I have to pull the engine, but a quick glance looked like I would be hitting the front frame and bumper trying to pull the cam. I could be wrong though...when I am up where I have the car stored this weekend I will check again. My father in law seemed to think the engine would need to come out. I originally had the car towed to his place since he has all the tools I would have needed to get it running (he races and they own a towing company), and after getting it running found the misfire on #2. So he pulled the lifters (kept them in order) and put a scope down and found the cam rounded.

 

For reasons unknown, Chevrolet ran the bottom two bolts on the timing cover through from the inside, causing needless problems for anyone having to remove the cover for service. Most people tap threads into the front main cap, drill out the threads in the cover, and run the bolts in from the outside once they've gotten access to it.

 

Yeah having to drop the oil pan just to get to those two bolts is needlessly inconvenient. If I can get swap the cam without removing the engine I will be golden. I have seen too many older straight six cars with a hole drilled in the bumper and frame.

 

Hey Heathen...I am putting together a parts list to do the cam, would you mind taking a look and let me know if you see anything missing?

 

Sure.

 

Thanks for checking. I would bet there is a way to keep the engine in the car and do it, probably by loosening a mount or two and rocking the engine a little to pull the cam through the front.

 

Ok @HEATHEN here is my parts list:
Camshaft
Lifters
Timing Gear
Timing cover gasket set
Pushrod gasket set
Oil Pan gasket set
Lucas Zinc plus break in oil
RTV
RotellaT 30

 

It would be easier to just pull engine. I have done it in the car and it is no fun at all.
You have to pull about everything off the engine. oil pan, valve cover and rockers plus lifters, pushrods. Side covers, timing cover and gears. Water pump and pulley's.
You have to raise engine which means motor mounts have to come off.
Radiator, grille also have to come off.
Way more trouble than it's worth.
Time to upgrade drivetrain.

 

I've changed the cam in my 50 without pulling the engine and the list that fastcar1953 gave is accurate, but for some reason I didn't think it was that bad. If I had it to do over again I still wouldn't pull the engine. Look at the bottom 2 bolts on the timing cover. There's a slight chance somebody already reversed them since work was already done to the engine before. That would save having to raise the engine to pull the oil pan which is the worse part of the job. If I remember correctly that's the only reason you need to raise the engine. And if you do it, spring for the aluminum timing gear in lieu of the old fiber one.

 

On the lower timing cover the smart guys used 3/8” header bolts with the 7/16” or 3/8” for a wrench. I’ve even seen Allen heads. All were for ease of removal.

 

You'll also want a new camshaft retaining plate---the sort of diamond shaped plate between the camshaft and the gear that's held to the front of the block with two screws.

 

You all are the best. I knew there would be some things I missed. I am lucky that the car is stored at my sisters place in the country and I can "pop" it into the garage for a few days (weeks) to work on it. Want to have my ducks in a row so I dont overstay my welcome as I have done in the past.

 

Wouldn’t a person want to pull the engine to be able to clean it good ? Drop the pan and flush out the filings from the cam and lifter ? Clean oil p***ages ? Maybe I’m over thinking things ?

 

I forgot the fuel pump and distibutor. pressing on the new timing gear. 7 hours might do it.