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Technical 1951 cadillac brake issues

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Codizzle, May 21, 2025.

  1. Codizzle
    Joined: Feb 25, 2022
    Posts: 68

    Codizzle
    Member

    Vehicle:

    1951 Cadillac, OEM stock drums up front, 1989 Chevrolet, 10 bolt rear end with OEM Chevrolet drum brakes (self-adjusting). Master cylinder, booster and pedal ***embly from 2001 Camaro.


    Problem:

    When car is started and idling the brake pedal feels fine and brakes work great. Drive the car for 5-10 miles and rear drums lock up and brake pedal is solid. All new brake components including springs, wheel cylinders, drums, shoes, self-adjusting ***embly. All new rear brake lines and brand-new center rubber hose. Front brakes are a non-issue although they are part of the entire system.


    I am out of ideas. I have made sure all brake lines are 5-6 inches away from any heat source. I am using DOT 4 fluid. Brake lines coming from master cylinder in engine bay are heat wrapped insulated. Front brakes have 10psi residual valve installed directly after the master cylinder.


    Any help would be appreciated.
     
  2. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 15,900

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Is your master cylinder under the floor or on the firewall (above or below the wheel cylinders)?
     
    51 mercules likes this.
  3. Codizzle
    Joined: Feb 25, 2022
    Posts: 68

    Codizzle
    Member

    Firewall mounted
     
  4. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 15,900

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    There went that idea. You running residual valves on the back or a stand off valve?
     
  5. Codizzle
    Joined: Feb 25, 2022
    Posts: 68

    Codizzle
    Member

    No residual valve on rear as I was told that any master cylinder produced after 1981 would not need because the wheel cylinders have cup expanders built in. (Mark with ECI hotrod brakes).
     
    57 Fargo likes this.
  6. Happydaze
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,360

    Happydaze
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Check the clearances between the master and booster and the pedal rod to booster.

    Chris
     
  7. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 15,900

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It doesn't need them when the master is higher than the wheel cylinders. I was just crossing that off the list.
     
  8. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 17,582

    tb33anda3rd
    Member

    what do you do to get them freed up? lose a line? wait?
     
  9. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,937

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    s pen
    You should be able to reach down with your hand and move the brake pedal 1/8 inch or so before you feel the pushrod contact the piston in the master cylinder.
    What happens if the push rod is tight against the piston or pushing it in just a bit the back cup or the edge of the piston covers up the port to the reservoir and doesn't allow the fluid to return to the Reservoir.
    [​IMG]

    That is the common cause of that issue especially if you can open a bleeder on a rear wheel and let some fluid out and the brakes work.

    As far as residual or check valves every drum brake dual master cylinder I have seen or disk/drum has a check valve on the drum brake sides that is behind the seat for the flared brake line. in the master cylinder.
    URL=https://hosting.photobucket.com/c5e...bbfca3fbb.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds][​IMG][/URL]
     
    tb33anda3rd, BJR and seb fontana like this.

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