thanks guys, really thanks! the rear can go lower, the tires are resting on the wheel wells. i didnt want to cut into them just yet. id like to research and see how others have solved this before i hack it up, i dont like hacks. if ya need pics of anything just let me know, i think we covered just about everything in the build. the rear shocks are also in place. i used the stock lower mount (i welded the thread of a bolt so that we can bolt them on and off), the top mount is 2 eye tabs per side welded up on the notch so that at full slam the shocks have 1" before bottoming out. thanks again.
Lookin good!!!!! Was that a Gambino notch kit you used? I have been thinking about one for my 52 and was wondering how easy they went in.
I used two old spare tire wells for my wheel tubs. I turned them over and cut until they fit. I bent the cut edge of them over , drilled 3/16 holes around the edge and spot welded them back into the new hole at the top of the wheel tub. I also am running 6-70 15's , with 5 in. wheels, so they are skinny and have plenty of room to work without rubbing. I bet you have the spare tire thing still laying around. They repro them too. You could also fit a motorcycle fender up there too probably, one of those fat rear ones. I could put some pics on if your interested. I got the stock rear end also, closed drive! Love this thread.
thanks everyone! lowbrow52, this is "universal" type kit i got from suicidedoors, came with most of the rear brackets i needed to get er dun. customcory i would love to see pics of what you did, it makes sense in my head, but then again things arent always right up there. chief, its still on leafs, 1 to be exact with a 4" block. btw i sent ya a pm.
As a reader feeling the pain of the build... it sure was sweet to see the finished product... NICE work...
thanks for all the pics!!! inspiring me to get up and in the garage early tomorrow!! how is it riding? is the monoleaf squirly at all?
Hey tylerdurban, heres some pics of my trunk floor and wheel tubs. If I remember right the tire dosen't sit exactly in the middle of the tub like you would think, so it throws the curve off a little and you have to do a little cuttin and splicin on the spare tire well itself. Look at the part under the trunk support brace. It's hard to explain , the pics do a better job. If you were running bigger tires you could use like a fat bob rear motorcycle fender cut down to fit in there. You can't go up no further than the outer quarter anyway, I have about a 1/8 in. clearence between the tub and the quarter panel. I got some inside shots too. I stepped my frame different from the ones I have seen so far, I wish I could show you. I will have a Mustang gas tank and a panel to get to the air bag stuff if I need too. You can also see where I tunneled my driveshaft.When I take this car off the frame the next time, I'll do a thread on it. Also , it has 4 in. blocks now and about 4 leaves. I raised my spring mounts up in the frame 2 or 3 in. I can't remember now. It will lay frame in the rear. I really like your fastback. You can't tear up a torque tube!
thanks customcory! those pics help a lot! great idea with the spare tire well too. i think that will be the next thing we tackle. oh! can you post a pic or two on the leafspring mount raise? dont think ill go down and do that soon but would like to keep it as reference for future jobs. sko ford, there were a lot of us that were not too sure about the gold either (including me) it was my buddies idea, but im with you they look killer on the car.
Car looks bitchen. Also, looks like some quality workmanship! One question. Where did you pick up the angled lowering blocks? Weve got 4 in. blocks on my buddys 53 and weve been having issues with pinion angle. Id like to correct it with some angled blocks. Thanks
Hey man, heres my spring mounts. The front mount is up in the frame . The spring is not directly under the frame rail, its a little off towards the out side. I have a piece a tubing between it and the inside of the rail around the bolt, so it dosen't crush the rail when you tighten it up. The front spring perch bolt goes straight thru the frame. The rear perch is in a notch I put in the rail. The circle part is where the shackle goes around while the car goes up and down. Hard to explain , but it works great. The gusset for it is not on yet. Everything is tacked together for when I tear it down again. This idea would work on about any pre-54 car. Moving the spring up will cause you to use less of a lowering block, or you could put a couple more leafs back in the spring, and be right back where you started height wise. It also will help you on the scrub line a little bit.
jay71, we got the blocks from gauge magazine, call them cause the picture isn't quite what you get: http://store.gaugemagazine.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=353 THANK YOU customcory. that is a great idea! wish i knew about it before hand. guess we'll do that when we swap the rear end for an automatic one.
The Jalopy Journal
